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joshy8200
Aug 15, 2005, 2:53 PM
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Anyone know anything about a short, large, splitter handcrack to the right of Pockets of Resistance at Kaymoor/Rico Suave Buttress. It goes up a large hand-fist crack to a ledge with a tree. Then there a short left facing flake to small dirty ledge with a tree. If you've been there you can't miss the crack, but it is not in either of the guidebooks.
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thorne
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Aug 15, 2005, 3:02 PM
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Nice 5.9 route. Eats up gear. Stays dry (I think). On the downside, whoever cleans the route has to lower off a single anchor. It looks solid, but trusting a single bolt is still scary. Editted to add: I may be thinking about a different climb. :wink:
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joshy8200
Aug 15, 2005, 3:28 PM
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I didn't see any bolts from where I was at...it looked like you could continue up the wall higher and top out through some broken cracks and vegetated ledges. I rapped from a solid tree just above the first ledge after the flake with an even more solid tree on it. Maybe....30ft. 5.9 sounds a bit inflated for the climb that I pulled...my buddies and I agreed maybe 5.8-5.8+...so maybe the same climb. Description again: Short splitter hand-fist crack 20ft right of Pockets of Resistance. Climb the crack to a ledge with a large tree (4ft sling barely wrapped around the base). From the ledge climb up a left facing flake about 10ft to some rododendron and another tree (2ft sling barely wrapped around this tree). Rapped from there...looked like it could have continued through some cracks and vegetation to the top.
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downgrader
Aug 15, 2005, 3:45 PM
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so are you talking about a crack in-between 'pockets of resistance' and 'nude brute', or the crack up on the ledge just to the right of 'nude brute'??? if there is a crack inbetween those two climbs, i have no idea what it is and yea, it's probably not in any of the guides. the one up on the ledge just to the right of 'nude brute' is that 5.9 w/ only 1 anchor.....dirty and not worthy.
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thorne
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Aug 15, 2005, 4:06 PM
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I'm thinking of the one to the right of Nude Brute. It's back in the corner and starts up on a ledge. Not a stellar route, but worthwhile for a rainy day climb.
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joshy8200
Aug 15, 2005, 5:14 PM
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It is 'somewhere' between Pockets of Resistance and Nude Brute. It is not the route that you speak of on the wall with Nude Brute.
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downgrader
Aug 15, 2005, 5:55 PM
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well.....sounds like nobody knows what crack you're talking about. why don't you just climb it and then come back here and tell us all about it??? there is a good chunk of rock right there so it's no surprise that there might be a line left to be done.....i haven't been to that area in at least three years but i sure don't remember anything looking worthy of any real effort. but hey, go for it!!!
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joshy8200
Aug 15, 2005, 6:08 PM
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Already did it. I grabbed the rack the moment I saw the thing without even going to the guidebook. It also received another ascent minutes after I pulled my rope from the tree. Another guy came up and was looking for cracks for his brother to practice on...took my beta and did the thing too. YOU CANNOT MISS THE CRACK AT THE BOTTOM OF THIS ROUTE...THE FLAKE UP HIGHER IS HIGHLY VISIBLE ALSO! It is like 10 steps right from the start of Pockets of Resistance...
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joshy8200
Aug 15, 2005, 6:22 PM
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Here are two links of the start of the climb: http://community.webshots.com/photo/406472524/422961166HHqSZk http://community.webshots.com/photo/406472524/422961703DDcmyZ
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joshy8200
Aug 15, 2005, 7:06 PM
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Somebody's got to know something about this 'route' of sorts.
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joshy8200
Aug 15, 2005, 8:43 PM
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Anyone...
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andy_reagan
Aug 16, 2005, 12:13 PM
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The crack you are talking about is not in any guidebook I have seen. Its a flake/crack that trends right, correct? In between nude brute and pockets. Anyways, change of subject...how is Nude Brute? That thing looks fuuun. Does it pull the roof or end below it? Peace, Andy
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joshy8200
Aug 16, 2005, 2:27 PM
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The climb is not in sight of Nude Brute...you have to round a little corner through some bushes to get to Nude Brute and Good Ol Days. I didn't pay too much attention to those. The climb doesn't trend right. If anything it trends a little bit to the left...by maybe a foot at the lower part. The short left facing flake goes a bit to the left and I ended at a tree that was pretty plumbline to the start.
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downgrader
Aug 18, 2005, 3:59 PM
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andy, nude brute is rad!!! basically three boulder problems in a row w/ semi-rests in-between them. it ends before the (chossy) roof. i haven't been on it in years, but i remember the anchors being kinda sketchy - really small, and really rusty. but who knows, w/ all the re-bolting down there maybe someone got around to that one?? totally worth trying - one of the coolest at kaymoor.
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j_ung
Aug 18, 2005, 4:05 PM
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joshy8200
Aug 19, 2005, 4:09 PM
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Haha...He thought the crack was a little thin for his hands so he's trying to widen it a bit. Has anyone else climbed this short little section of crack and the flake above? With just a little bit of cleaning around the second tree it'd be a fun little route.
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nowinowski
Aug 19, 2005, 4:47 PM
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looks like fire of fire and ice? but that is the wrong spot. How hard is nude brute v grades on the boulder problems. lock offs ? lay backs? what style?
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forkliftdaddy
Aug 19, 2005, 5:40 PM
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Was there another crack to the right, more like fingers? Does look like Fire to me.
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joshy8200
Nov 16, 2005, 3:51 PM
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It's not Fire or Ice. Those routes are in a very different location from where this crack is located. 20ft to the right of Pockets of Resistance there is a splitter fist crack that goes for about 12ft to a ledge with a large tree. From this ledge continue for another 15 feet on a nice left facing flake to a smaller ledge with some rhododendron and another tree.
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