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docburner
Aug 16, 2005, 6:30 AM
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When doing a lead climb and you need to place a quickdraw that has say a 2-3 foot long sling on it, do you worry about backclipping it? How safe is a fall on it both if you backclip it and if you don't backclip it?
It seems to me that no matter if you backclip it or not, either the rope will force it into a good position, or it will force it into a bad position.
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josephgdawson
Aug 16, 2005, 6:32 AM
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In most cases it is hard to tell if you have backclipped a biner on a long sling. I normally do not worry about it. If it is the first piece I get after some runout, I may put a locker on it.
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docburner
Aug 16, 2005, 7:20 PM
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good idea thanks
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jammer
Aug 16, 2005, 7:41 PM
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You posted this in Sport Climbing ... makes me wonder why you would have to use a long sling in the first place. Are the routes you are climbing zig-zagging where one is needed?
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docburner
Aug 16, 2005, 8:02 PM
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More of routes going in like a C shape, where you want to use the sling to get the rope out and away from the wall so that it doesn't drag across the bulge.
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thetroutscout
Aug 19, 2005, 7:42 AM
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Sure you'll "probably" be fine. But when you're above that runner and the word backclip enters your head, you've just lost the leading mental game. Why not practice good habits?
^^ike
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4togo
Aug 19, 2005, 8:56 AM
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In reply to: When doing a lead climb and you need to place a quickdraw that has say a 2-3 foot long sling on it, do you worry about backclipping it?
I just learned a neat trick this weekend: rotate the rope-end biner so that it is "upside down" from the usual configuration (in other words, basket toward the sling instead of the rope).
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pembe_panter
Aug 19, 2005, 10:29 AM
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Long slings may be (if not should) useful in the overhang roofs also. As said, putting locker may free the mind.
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jammer
Aug 19, 2005, 12:27 PM
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Good nose Jay ... good nose!!!
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j_ung
Aug 19, 2005, 12:32 PM
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I can smell ham sandwiches a mile away. :wink:
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vegastradguy
Aug 19, 2005, 12:42 PM
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In reply to: Sure you'll "probably" be fine. But when you're above that runner and the word backclip enters your head, you've just lost the leading mental game. Why not practice good habits?
on a 2' or 3' sling, even if he clips correctly, the sling can twist into a backclipped configuration easily. it will, however, untwist if a fall occurs.
so, as others have said- no.
however, be careful putting a 3' sling on a sport route- because you will fall that much further if you pop, which could be an issue depending where you clip it.
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4togo
Aug 19, 2005, 6:39 PM
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In reply to: I can smell ham sandwiches a mile away. :wink:
I had never done it before... they promised that nobody would be able to tell... it was going to be our little secret... and now I smell like ham???
I mean, it wasn't even a full ham sandwich. More like half, because there were still a couple of bolts here and there. That doesn't really count as trad climbing, does it? I was just... experimenting.
Okay, okay... I LIKED IT! And I'll do it again! I don't care if everybody knows. It's not like I'm a gear whore or anything bad like that, is it?
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veganboyjosh
Aug 19, 2005, 6:42 PM
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[quote="4togo"]In reply to: Okay, okay... I LIKED IT! And I'll do it again! I don't care if everybody knows. It's not like I'm a gear whore or anything bad like that, is it?
not yet.
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