|
|
|
|
viticeps
Aug 29, 2005, 6:16 PM
Post #1 of 9
(2947 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 8, 2004
Posts: 13
|
Aiming to round out my still-young rack, I recently ordered a brand new 2nd of the C4 #6, and now that I have it, I'm wondering if I'll really need it. I'm sure it has its place somewhere within the cracks of the world, but how often will I find myself placing something this big when it almost seems better suited to bludgeon someone unawares?
I'm more or less hoping to eventually climb sustained 5.9's, possibly .10b at some point, but for now I'm enjoying the smooth pace of 5.7's while I get better acquainted with placing gear, despite being an upper .11 climber in sport. While I've only taken my own rack out once on some small 25 ft climbs, I've gone with my climbing partner to Yosemite and Lovers Leap. Along with J-Tree, Smith Rock and hopefully Squamish someday, these are the areas I want to gear my rack toward.
So what I'm basically asking is, do you guys find yourselves pumped out in runout off-widths often, wishing you had something as big as this battleaxe I now own to jam in there, or is the situation so rare that you can't really justify owning one? And for those that do own it, does it carry its own weight in terms of usefulness or is it really just extra weight?
The tags are still attached to the cam pending feedback. Thanks in advance for any advice!
-Mike
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
Aug 29, 2005, 6:21 PM
Post #2 of 9
(2947 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
Necessary? Not at all.
But if you want to start doing more OW, and are a chicken like me, it's nice to have.
The only OW at Lover's I know of is Traveller Buttress. There's probably more though.
|
|
|
|
|
haas
Aug 29, 2005, 6:22 PM
Post #3 of 9
(2947 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 27, 2005
Posts: 80
|
when I first got my #5 camalot (the old style C3) I didn't place it much and it mainly sat in the bottom of my pack, but then as my climbing diversified and I became more experienced, I started using it more and more. Now I have several big pieces and do like to climb offwidths of all grades, from 5.8-5.12. I don't solely climb offwidths, but I do like having the option to do so, and they are important the more you explore Yosemite, especially if you get on any of the big stuff. I suggest hanging on to it, and the more experienced a climber you become, the more you may want to try the dreaded ow. Good luck
|
|
|
|
|
tradclimbr
Aug 29, 2005, 6:29 PM
Post #4 of 9
(2947 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 21, 2004
Posts: 22
|
A friend of mine once described them as being like his ex-girlfriend. "Kind big and often getting in the way. A burden, but sometimes really nice to have around"
|
|
|
|
|
socialclimber
Sep 14, 2005, 11:00 AM
Post #5 of 9
(2947 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 18, 2001
Posts: 1163
|
Boat anchors are a bit like hexes. You have to own at least one if you consider yourself to be a trad climber. In my experence, you won't uee a big cam much but when you need it, you need it.
|
|
|
|
|
marcdurant
Sep 14, 2005, 1:01 PM
Post #6 of 9
(2947 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 11, 2003
Posts: 16
|
If I read your post correctly, this is your second #6? Unless you're finding really good deals on gear, then my advice would be not to bother buying the really big, expensive cams until you need them. And you'll know when you need them!
If you ARE finding really good deals, send me a pm! :)
|
|
|
|
|
anjinsan
Sep 14, 2005, 9:38 PM
Post #7 of 9
(2947 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 1, 2004
Posts: 9
|
I think what he said was that he bought a factory second or blem #6 camalot.
|
|
|
|
|
marshall84
Sep 18, 2005, 5:05 AM
Post #8 of 9
(2947 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 9, 2002
Posts: 2842
|
I've used my C3 #5 a few times, but it has always been at the top of some obscure J-tree climb to build an anchor. It impresses the girls though. Well at least the ones that aren't climbers. :wink:
|
|
|
|
|
vegastradguy
Sep 18, 2005, 5:22 AM
Post #9 of 9
(2947 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919
|
we were having a similar conversation on a route today about the monster cams. the conclusion was this: on those routes you think you might need it, you're always glad to have it if you do need it and hardly ever pissed that you took it and didnt need it.
people call them 'boat anchors' and way too 'heavy'- and the real truth is- they arent that heavy and better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it- especially when it comes to a 6" wide crack!
just make sure to put a stick in it and keep it retracted while climbing- the bigger camalots get stuck on everything if they arent retracted, and that can really bum you out if it happens at the wrong moment!
|
|
|
|
|
|
