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bobruef
Aug 29, 2005, 5:43 PM
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I'm very slowly making my way into leading trad, and was wondering if anybody knew of any good 5.6 and under climbs in the area that would be a good place to start. I want to start on routes that I have little chance of falling off of to begin with, so I can concentrate on gear placement. Any suggestions?
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j_ung
Aug 29, 2005, 5:52 PM
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Great Falls is filled with good single-pitch trad climbs though most of the time, they're just toproped. Check out the Diehedrals area. I can think of three quality, easily leadable routes there (might be more) all 5.5 and under.
1. Easy Lieback 5.4
2. Pride 5.4
3. Prejudice 5.5
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rocloco
Aug 29, 2005, 5:59 PM
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Seneca is the place to go for lots of good lead climbs in that range, but Great Falls has a couple routes too that will take gear. Most people will tell you that the rock is very brittle and not to trust it, but I have 2 spots I like to go to that have never been a problem in that regard.
Last Exit (Degree 101 area) and Romeos Ladder (Juliettes Balcony?) are both leadable and both 5.6 or under. I think 5.5 and 5.6 respectively. I've seen Birds Nest (5.5 or 5.6 - Birds Nest area) led too, but haven't myself. Looks very doable though.
You can do some trad work at Annapolis Rock, but I think the leadable routes are all over 5.8. Buzzard Rock has a bunch of routes in the lower ranges, but they also have lots of bolts so might not be what you're looking for.
I'd plan a Seneca trip if I was you...
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landgolier
Aug 29, 2005, 6:14 PM
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The best beginner leading close to DC is at Sugarloaf. Start at boy scout ledges and do the 5.3 stuff, then head over to lower west view for some of those routes. Do flake called lee to get sketched on trad for the first time, and hit up seven wishes if you want to get even more scared. Once you get a little more comfortable, go hit slow and easy down at middle earth to learn about placing gear while hanging off of jams.
Three amigos or 3 amigos direct at buzzard are beginner-friendly, the rest of it is mixed with a lot of difficult pro and mandatory runouts.
Annapolis has some good stuff once you get solid at 5.7. Ditto for old rag.
Don't go to seneca until you have somebody to teach you how to do multi-pitch.
Believe what you want about leading at great falls, I don't climb there.
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roambb1
Aug 29, 2005, 6:19 PM
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Be careful if you are inexperienced and decide to head to Seneca. You can get in way over your head. There is significant exposure there, and gear can be tricky. Most routes are multi-pitch. Plus, grades there are rated differently than you may expect. A Seneca 5.5 can easily feel harder that a 5.7 elsewhere.
The New River Gorge, altough not close, is probably your best bet for quality if you will be doing all the leading. If you have some experienced friends that know Seneca with you, then definately try it. Just be cautious there.
Also, Coopers rock is great for bouldering, and also has some 20 ft cracks strewn about that are very easy "practice" leads which take good gear. Bring a pad and your gear and explore.
Have fun.
BB
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aikibujin
Aug 29, 2005, 6:46 PM
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I agree with landgolier that Sugarloaf is the best place around DC to learn to lead trad. The rock at Great Falls is hard and slippery and tricky to place good gear - counterproductive when you're just learning trad.
However, if you do end up in Seneca and wishing you can lead something there... you can. There are some stuff that can be done as a single pitch climb for practice, all have established anchors so you can rap at the end of the climb.
First pitch of Skyline Traverse (5.3). Easy and takes a lot of gear. Bolted anchor you can rap from.
First pitch of Totem (5.4). Second pitch of Totem is 5.11, but the first pitch is 5.4. Brand new glue-in bolts you can rap from.
First pitch of Ecstasy Jr. (5.4). Three anchors on the same ledge you can use: two different bolted anchors on the face, and sling around a bomber tree with rap rings. If you can get to the bolted anchors, rap from them. If you rap from the tree, be aware that a 60m rope may just be 5 feet or so short from reaching the ground (not a problem since you can down climb the last 5 feet).
Candy Corner (5.6). A single pitch climb with bolted anchors you can rap from.
These are just off the top of my head. Keep in mind some of these route traverses/wanders, some are not possible/safe to clean on rap. So you'll need a second to clean your gear.
Just don't go over your head and hop on a multipitch route when you're not ready for it, if you keep to the easy single pitch stuff you should be ok. Of course, it's better to go with someone who has experience. BTW a helmet is pretty much mandatory to climb at Seneca - the rock is quite loose.
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cragmasterp
Aug 29, 2005, 7:04 PM
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Hidden Rocks, outside of Stanton/harrisonburg has a few good easy leads.
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tim
Aug 29, 2005, 7:51 PM
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1) Old Rag
2) see if you can get in touch with hyhuu, who went from leading 5.9 to leading 5.11 while I was there. There was a good mailing list for DC area outdoor climbing enthusiasts on Yahoo! when I was there -- Hung could opine whether that's still a good place to start.
have fun, DC is not nearly as bad as people say ;-) and there are some good people who've chosen to work there in spite of its general flatness.
I couldn't take it, and moved back to California!
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bobruef
Aug 29, 2005, 7:55 PM
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wow, thanks for all of the advice! I'll be anxious to try out some of these routes.
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landgolier
Aug 29, 2005, 7:57 PM
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hyhuu and a number of other characters can be found at the DCOutdoorRockClimbing yahoo group. Signal to noise ratio can be rather low sometimes, but route it to its own folder and you can find out about a lot of good stuff.
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aikibujin
Aug 29, 2005, 8:06 PM
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In reply to: have fun, DC is not nearly as bad as people say ;-) ... I couldn't take it, and moved back to California!
Sandbagger! :lol: If DC isn't nearly as bad as people say, why did you move back to California? BTW, did you climb with pattray when you were here? I believe he has mentioned you once.
To the OP, trust me, DC is as bad as we say. The climbing around here may be ok, but the weather sucks. As soon as I get a chance, I'm outta here!
In reply to: Signal to noise ratio can be rather low sometimes
Sadly the signal to noise ratio on the yahoo group is really low these days, I've actually given up on it once already. However, it is still the best place to look for local partners, aside from the PATC group. Here are the links for both:
DCORC
PATC
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srwings
Aug 29, 2005, 8:23 PM
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Birds Nest (5.6) at Great Falls was my first trad lead. There's nothing really tricky about this route.
Crescent Crack (5.9) at Crescent Rock is another possibility. It's a little pumpy setting pro but nice.
There are no sketchy cruxes on either of these.
Buzzard Rock has bolted routes that require pro. The weather is cooling down so now might be a good time to visit it.
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vawwyakr
Aug 29, 2005, 9:02 PM
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I'm going to second Sugarloaf as being one of the nearest/best trad lead areas to DC.
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el_jerko
Aug 29, 2005, 10:16 PM
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My $.02,
Do not lead at Great Falls. I have done it as many have, but the rock there has a reputation for flexing a great deal and releasing pro.
Schaffer Rock PA has a couple of really nice 5.6 cracks, and as was suggested above Hidden Cracks VA has a really nice 5.6, a 5.7 and a 5.8.
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wjca
Aug 29, 2005, 10:23 PM
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In reply to: The best beginner leading close to DC is at Sugarloaf. Start at boy scout ledges and do the 5.3 stuff, then head over to lower west view for some of those routes. Do flake called lee to get sketched on trad for the first time, and hit up seven wishes if you want to get even more scared. Once you get a little more comfortable, go hit slow and easy down at middle earth to learn about placing gear while hanging off of jams. Three amigos or 3 amigos direct at buzzard are beginner-friendly, the rest of it is mixed with a lot of difficult pro and mandatory runouts. Annapolis has some good stuff once you get solid at 5.7. Ditto for old rag. Don't go to seneca until you have somebody to teach you how to do multi-pitch. Believe what you want about leading at great falls, I don't climb there.
This is excellent advice. Start at the boyscout ledges. If you are afraid to fall, this is the best climb to start with. It really is one step above climbing a ladder and will swallow pro.
Stay away from Great falls to begin with.
If you want a change from Sugarloaf, go up to Rocks State Park outside of Bel Air, but do not get on the break away wall. There are three good starting climbs on the north (back) side of the pinnacle (chicken head crack being one of them). Also, there are two 5.5's on the biceps wall (one of which is beginners corner, which is a good beginner lead).
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cadaverchris
Aug 29, 2005, 10:57 PM
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another 2 cents. from a 5 year DCmetro resident
best begginner trad area - Sugarloaf. some super easy routes. routes swallow gear. rock is sound. not too exposed, convienient (sp?)
the next three areas- i consider the ratings to be on the stiff side. although i never found seneca to be way out of proportion. (i think its because i started leading at seneca and the gunks)
Old Rag is too committing for begginners.
Great Falls gear is finicky, and some people say the rock is too slippery or whatever- I have led there, and now I consider it not worth hiking my gear in- its a TR place.
Seneca kudos to aikibujin for the Awesome Beta post!
In reply to: First pitch of Skyline Traverse (5.3). Easy and takes a lot of gear. Bolted anchor you can rap from. First pitch of Totem (5.4). Second pitch of Totem is 5.11, but the first pitch is 5.4. Brand new glue-in bolts you can rap from. First pitch of Ecstasy Jr. (5.4). Three anchors on the same ledge you can use: two different bolted anchors on the face, and sling around a bomber tree with rap rings. If you can get to the bolted anchors, rap from them. If you rap from the tree, be aware that a 60m rope may just be 5 feet or so short from reaching the ground (not a problem since you can down climb the last 5 feet). Candy Corner (5.6). A single pitch climb with bolted anchors you can rap from.
I agree completely.
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bobruef
Aug 30, 2005, 2:29 PM
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wow, I'll be heading to Sugarloaf for sure now this weekend. Thank everyone for being so accommodating to a noob. I truly appreciate all of the advice. If anyone is ever near old-town Gaithersburg, I know of a great pub where I'll run a beers-4-beta deal! Ha! Thanks again
-bob
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paulv7
Aug 30, 2005, 3:42 PM
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I'm also for not placing gear at greatfalls. Now once you learn good gear placements you can setup anchors there with gear pretty easy but I wouldn't lead on gear. Some routes don't have trees very near or using a tree and a piece of gear as a directional does help preventing swings on some routes on top rope.
Sugarloaf has sorta strange gear placements IMHO. Most of the cracks tend to flair out very quickly. Which can make finding a good placement a bit tricky. Now places like boyscout ledges there are hundreds of places to plug gear you just have to spend the time looking for the best one. Another suggestion is walk around Sugarloaf with your rack. Practice setting up 3 point anchors and equalizing them. Or put 1 piece of gear in put a sling on it and bounce test it. Just be careful it doesn't pop out and hit you in the face. I think sugarloaf is a good place to learn gear but you do have to search for the ideal placements.
Rocks State park has an interesting 5.6 to lead. On breakaway ledge there is a 5.6 called Vertical. The gear is there but you have to find it. This route has the opposite problem from Sugarloaf. The easiest way to picture it is 2 flakes coming together. The crack flares back into the rock and opens way up for the size of the edge of the crack. But there is gear around the route on other cracks.
Annapolis Rocks there is Argo rock (right most rock from the approach). I believe it is called Argo. It has a couple 5.5-6 routes. You could make a day of leading those routes and TR'ing others.
Buzzard Rock is all slab climbing. There are some 5.6ish routes. The mixed routes are nice because they get you up a ways before you have to start plugging gear. So you have less of a chance of decking. Plus most the routes at Buzzard get very easy toward the top. Like Pulp Friction (5.10 5 bolts 75 ft) The 5 bolts are all within the 1st 40ft of the climb. The crux is just passed the 5th bolt and then it gets easy.
I recently went up to Chickies rock in PA for the first time. The main wall is pretty much 5.6ish. You will need to know how to setup a gear anchor there. You can also walk off from the big ledge. It is fairly tall and would give you a since of some exposure. I found the gear pretty straight forward but it can be runout.
Overall the best thing to do is find someone and get them to show you things. What makes a good cam placement, stopper, hex, etc... Take your time learn how the gear is suppose to be used and be comfortable and confident in it when you lead. The last thing you want to do when you lead is start second guessing your placements and not trusting your gear.
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bobruef
Jun 16, 2006, 8:01 PM
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[Resurrection] I wanted to thank everyone who posted to this thread for the terrific beta. This advice was huge for a nOOb teaching himself.
Sugarloaf proved to be a great spot to work out the kinks, and now I hit up Seneca almost every weekend. Went from starting out at "cubscout cracks" and "a flake called lee" to "Le Gourmet", and finally to "Pleasant Overhangs" the other weekend.
You all had a big hand in contributing to my delinquency, and should be ashamed of yourselves!
Thanks again,
Bob
[/Resurrection]
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rocloco
Feb 8, 2007, 11:04 PM
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Pleasant Overhangs is a fine, fine route! Stay safe.
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carbonrx8
Feb 9, 2007, 12:11 AM
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I am surprised no one mentioned Vertical at Rocks. On the weekend, this is less than an hour drive north of DC; only a bit longer to get there than the loaf from the beltway. You can stretch this climb out to nearly 80 feet basically straight up with good pro all the way. 5.6. Better rock than near the patomac. I cant think of anything half that tall, that easy, anywhere close to here.
EDIT: Way to resurrect a thread. I should have looked at the date.
(This post was edited by carbonrx8 on Feb 9, 2007, 12:13 AM)
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