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tyler_the_boulderer
Sep 7, 2005, 10:32 PM
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What do you all think the most important type of strength for bouldering is... and how do you get each of stronger? -Core Strength -Finger Strength -Arm Strength -Other types if I forgot any I am setting up this post because i want everyones opinion on which is most important.. and i want to know how to get all of these different strengths stronger. Thanks, Tyler
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peteripnar
Sep 7, 2005, 11:56 PM
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they are all important, without one, the others will suffer. The best way to get these areas stronger is to climb. The more you climb, the more you will understand your personal weaknesses. These can be finger strength, core strength, technique, anything. the more you climb, the more you will understand how you compensate for your weaknesses. Try to force yourself not to compensate, and to work those weaker muscles. once you have mastered that you will be a better man than i. i struggle and will probably always struggle with the mental game of bouldering along with being somewhat weak with open hand strength.
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tyler_the_boulderer
Sep 8, 2005, 12:04 AM
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Thanks for the advice... But is there anything i can do around the house to improve these strengths? I alread use my hangboard every day... Would sit ups, push ups, and pull-ups be good for arm and core strength? Also, Im only 14, i dont want to be doing pilates or yoga or any of that stuff Advice would be appreciated Thanks, Tyler
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c22
Sep 8, 2005, 12:29 AM
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Though arm strength can help, finger and core is what you need. For finger strength, you could do fingertip pull-ups on your hange board, progressively adding weight as needed (should be able to do 6-10 reps for three sets, 2 min break in between each). Be careful with this one, potentially tweaky. For core, pretty much any ab workout will work, but I personally find L pull-ups, front levers (when you can do these, your pretty much good) and way steep climbing. If you really want to , you can combine these for true gnarlyness, do front lever/L pull-ups off of the crimps with the weights (preferably strap on) around your ankles. Obviously climbing is the best training in the beginning, but as I don't know your level of climbing I included everything I could think of (using only a fingerboard). Good Luck, -Dan
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tyler_the_boulderer
Sep 8, 2005, 1:07 AM
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Thanks for more advice... Just to tell you im an intermediate climber.... Before taking a 2 month break in the summer i boulder consecutive V4s and V5s.. But now im on V3s and V4s again... Also... would an ab routine work well for core strength? I know one the u do 4 sets of 30 sec each of sit ups, leg lifts, rocky sit ups (to the sides), and bycicle at the end. Thanks... yet again, Tyler
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maxiter
Sep 8, 2005, 1:06 PM
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In reply to: Also... would an ab routine work well for core strength? I know one the u do 4 sets of 30 sec each of sit ups, leg lifts, rocky sit ups (to the sides), and bycicle at the end. Abs are core, as are (lower) back muscles. Do what c22 said. Ab exercises (L-hang, L-pull-ups, levers, etc) are superb exercises when done from a fingerboard, rock rings, pull-up bar. I've found that I can get a far better workout doing them than doing things like situps, crunches, leg-lifts, and v-ups. Although, i've found it handy to do ab exercises on the pull-up bar to failure and then finish off with a short set or two of crunches (or similar).
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sem_smp
Sep 8, 2005, 1:20 PM
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Ok, just forget about targeted training for now. The most important thing in bouldering is determination, persistance and solid technique. You have the benefit of being young thus can recover way faster than most of us can. Climb as much as possible, but giving yourself enough time to heal in between sessions. I wont tell you a particular number of days to rest, just listen to your body. If you feel tweaked, tired or not at your strongest rest some more. You should only consider a hardcore training routine when you plateu. It sounds like you were doing pretty good and if you keep at it youll get better. When you go climbing work on a couple of projects and the rest of the day climb stuff thats at your limit. Once you can send something, send it again....and then again and again focusing on your technique and trying to make it as smooth as possible. Do this and youll be cruising your projects injury free for a long time. Bouldering in itself is training and will work out all the muscles that you need and none of the ones that will only add bulk. Good luck and keep cranking...
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overlord
Sep 8, 2005, 3:08 PM
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In reply to: I alread use my hangboard every day... Also, Im only 14, i dont want to be doing pilates or yoga or any of that stuff Advice would be appreciated Thanks, Tyler 1. if youre really using your hangboard every day, youre begging for trouble. im suprised you didnt injure something already. i dont think i could use mine for a week sans rest and not injure myself. i always take a day off after a hard HB session. or maybe youre not using it correctly. try searching this forum for HB excercises. theres some really good advice out there. so my advice under 1. would be to get some rest. allow your muscles and tendons to regenerate. 2. yoga and pilates are really good for all climbers. but if you dont want to do them, its no biggie. pullups are a good excercise for all climbers, as are pushups. its really important to develop opposing muscles (and pushups do just that) or you risk deforming/injuring your joints in the long run. as for abs, situps and stuff pretty much do the trick. just dont neglect the erector spinae muscle (lower back) or youll become a hunchback :wink: 3. youre only 14. dont worry so much about specific training. try to have as much fun as possible when climbing. climbing stuff at your limit has about the same training benefits as a hangboard and is much more fun.
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tyler_the_boulderer
Sep 8, 2005, 7:06 PM
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In reply to: if youre really using your hangboard every day, youre begging for trouble. im suprised you didnt injure something already. By me saying using my hangboard... i only use it for 10-15 minutes tops... i never go longer than that.... My routine on the hangboard is first a dead hang.. bent arm hang.. pullups... L-Hang... longer dead hang on harder holds.... longer bent arm hang on harder holds... pullups... L-Hang... then pullups to failure Note: I take rests inbetween each activity... i pretty much do what metolius suggests on the sheet when i bout my simulator... So about my worth ethic.. should i just listen to c22 and do more pullups? Thanks again (again) Tyler
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andy_reagan
Sep 8, 2005, 9:26 PM
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Power...
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flatstateclimber
Sep 8, 2005, 10:08 PM
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It really depends on what you're climbing for, too. If you want to climb on plastic, training everything helps. If there's a particular type of problem that you struggle with, work on that. Take me for example: I can climb V4/V5 in the gym, provided I don't have to top out. Outdoors, topping out absolutely kills me. What do I do? Practice topping out on the top out boulder at my gym. Is it helping? We'll see when fall comes around. If you want to climb outdoors, see what kind of problems populate the area you climb in. Find your weakness and work on it. Bouldering, by nature, is combining powerful moves. Muscles need to rest. It's no different than lifting weights in that respect. I find that when I'm struggling, it's usually because I'm not resting often enough. I try not to boulder on consecutive days anymore. It has certainly helped my improvement by giving my muscles time to recuperate. I hope this helps. I'm not a superb climber by any means, just thought I'd pass along some things I've learned by experience & talking to other climbers. Don't get caught up in numbers and stats. Climb because you enjoy it! --BJ
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overlord
Sep 9, 2005, 4:02 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: if youre really using your hangboard every day, youre begging for trouble. im suprised you didnt injure something already. By me saying using my hangboard... i only use it for 10-15 minutes tops... i never go longer than that.... My routine on the hangboard is first a dead hang.. bent arm hang.. pullups... L-Hang... longer dead hang on harder holds.... longer bent arm hang on harder holds... pullups... L-Hang... then pullups to failure then youre not using it right. the main use of a hangboard is to train finger strength. that is best achieved by dead hangs. if you want to train strength, try finding a hold that you can hold for about 3-6sec until failure. do 4-6 reps per series, 6-10 series. youll probably need to add weight, do a onearmed deadhang and stuff like that to achieve that result. thats the simlest routine. like i said before, do a search for better ones. and DONT forget to warm up REALLY well before such an excercise. dont even think about doing it while not warmed up. youll surely injure yourself. and give your fingers at least a day off afterwards.
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roddy82
Sep 9, 2005, 6:15 PM
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Has anyone mentioned a campus board? They work fingers and core.
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