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ceramiclover
Sep 25, 2005, 11:16 PM
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i am wondering what people prefer and why.
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vegastradguy
Sep 26, 2005, 1:46 AM
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Yates. rated much higher @ 1500lbs instead of the 300 or 400lbs(?) of the Metolius.
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salamanizer
Sep 26, 2005, 1:47 AM
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The Metolius Easy Dasie is crap. Here's why: 1. Everyone I know who has bought one either took it back or is in some way, dissatisfied with it. 2. The webbing used is cheap, thin and not nearly as strong as Yates (it may not hold a long leader fall) 3. The buckle unit is cheap and allows slippage of the webbing. A friend of mine had this problem and it was so bad that he had to tie a knot in the free end every time he sinched it down. Eventually we had to tie some dasie's out of webbing for him and it almost cost us the send. 4. It costs more than the Yates adjustable dasie when upon inspection it is so obviously cheaper in every way. Go with Yates who is known for their quality aid gear and not Metolius who isnt. I'm not to fond of Metolius's haul bags either.
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slacklinejoe
Sep 26, 2005, 2:57 AM
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I prefer to make my own adjustable daisies / safety lines that are stronger than others on the market.. but shy of that, the yates one isn't bad.
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gunked
Sep 26, 2005, 3:13 AM
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In reply to: I prefer to make my own adjustable daisies / safety lines that are stronger than others on the market.. but shy of that, the yates one isn't bad.
Where do you get a hold of the buckles?
-Jason :D
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slacklinejoe
Sep 26, 2005, 3:30 AM
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In reply to: Where do you get a hold of the buckles?
Well, I order them in bulk from Sweden of course :D
I think I posted a long time back on how to make an adjustable safety line or adjustable daisy using them. I'd try and dig that link up, but I'm feeling lazy.
Seriously though, the ones I use aren't certified for climbing use, but have a 2,200 lb tensile test and I like their action better than the others out there. Being as these are body weight only devices I don't feel weird about safety on them considering they hold 1,500 lb plus all the time on my slacklines. I find they are well worth the $4 we resale them for, but I certainly ain't pushing them for climbing use due to liability issues - besides it's kinda cool having unique gear no one else has.
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insainio
Sep 26, 2005, 3:38 AM
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In reply to: The Metolius Easy Dasie is crap. Here's why: 1. Everyone I know who has bought one either took it back or is in some way, dissatisfied with it. 2. The webbing used is cheap, thin and not nearly as strong as Yates (it may not hold a long leader fall)
Two things with what salamanizer said: 1. Which reputable gear shop would ever take a piece of climbing gear back? Let me know so I don't buy any gear there. 2. Why would you need an easy daisy to catch a long leader fall since it is primarily used to aid with? If it were to hold, you would break your back in the event of a fall with it attached to your bottom piece.
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valygrl
Sep 26, 2005, 3:51 AM
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I saw a french guy using a different home made adjustable daisy. It looked really great, and I made one for myself, but have only used it for one pitch, so the jury is still out. Also, it is very expensive.
Here's what it is:
A Ropeman and a hunk of old climbing rope. Tie in to one end of the rope. Tie a figure-eight on a bight on the other end. Put the Ropeman on the rope, put your lead biner into it.
When you want to anchor in, you clip in with the figure eight on the far end of the rope. Voila, you are clipped to the anchor with a rope.
Another benefit - you are daisying with a dynamic rope, not static webbing. Seems like that might help take some of the sting out of daisy falls.
I like my Yates adjustables OK, but they wear out pretty fast. Also, the way the webbing can get twisted and then fold up in the buckle drives me nuts. This home made system avoids those problems, and also allows a slightly shorter distance between the harness and the lead biner clip-in point - only like an inch, but as a short person, every inch counts.
Cheers,
Anna
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coldclimb
Sep 26, 2005, 4:05 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: The Metolius Easy Dasie is crap. Here's why: 1. Everyone I know who has bought one either took it back or is in some way, dissatisfied with it. 2. The webbing used is cheap, thin and not nearly as strong as Yates (it may not hold a long leader fall) Two things with what salamanizer said: 1. Which reputable gear shop would ever take a piece of climbing gear back? Let me know so I don't buy any gear there.
Hehehee. REI. :lol:
I have to say I really like the metolius adjustable daisies. Haven't had any of the problems mentioned above. Never used the Yates ones though, so I can't compare.
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salamanizer
Sep 26, 2005, 4:51 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: The Metolius Easy Dasie is crap. Here's why: 1. Everyone I know who has bought one either took it back or is in some way, dissatisfied with it. 2. The webbing used is cheap, thin and not nearly as strong as Yates (it may not hold a long leader fall) Two things with what salamanizer said: 1. Which reputable gear shop would ever take a piece of climbing gear back? Let me know so I don't buy any gear there. 2. Why would you need an easy daisy to catch a long leader fall since it is primarily used to aid with? If it were to hold, you would break your back in the event of a fall with it attached to your bottom piece.
Ok you're right, I noticed the leader fall comment after I already posted and don't know why I said that, I just didnt care to enough to change it. I was hopeing that no one would notice. I should have known better being that this site has some people who know what their talking about. However, you're right, that comment is irrelevent. I only ment to make a point that the Metolius dasie isn't as strong as the Yates. On the other point...the Metolius dasies that were taken back to the store were taken back to none other than REI. As you probably know, they take ANYTHING back.
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artsylady567
Oct 17, 2005, 6:18 PM
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I have yates daisy and I wouldn't go w/ anything else.
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southbayclimber
Jan 3, 2006, 8:09 PM
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I am a fledgeling aid climber with a gift certificate to REI and need daisy's. I am looking at these two and want to justify the metolious becuase it is Cheaper for me.
How important is the extra strength of the Yates?
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vegastradguy
Jan 4, 2006, 11:17 PM
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In reply to: I am a fledgeling aid climber with a gift certificate to REI and need daisy's. I am looking at these two and want to justify the metolious becuase it is Cheaper for me. How important is the extra strength of the Yates?
very.
the metolius daisy would have virtually no chance of holding a static daisy fall if a piece blew while you were on it. this could have horrible consequences- including death. for the record- the Metolius easy daisy is rated at 300lbs, that's less than 2kn, which is the rating on the pocket part of a regular daisy! in the climbing world, 2kn is nothing in the way of forces...
also, these units have to take an incredible amount of abuse by aid climbers and the Yates are by far and away more durable. your long-run cost would be cheaper with the yates, simply because you will not need to replace them as often.
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fenderfour
Jan 5, 2006, 3:33 PM
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I've been fairly pleased with my Metolius easy daisies, but I haven't tried the Fish model with the Ancra buckles. I recently saw a Yates easy daisy with a built in screamer. Not a bad idea, but it keeps you farther away from your piece.
I have taken a very short daisy fall and it cut halfway through the webbing on the Metolius piece. Not so cool. New webbing from Metolius cost me $5.
BTW - you can purchase buckles to make your own Fish type daisies here: http://www.seattlefabrics.com/cam_buckles.html
It's the 1" metal supercam buckle.
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fenderfour
Jan 5, 2006, 3:39 PM
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One other thing - slipping of the Metolius easy daisy is due to user error. They put the instruction book on there for a reason you know.
The carbiner goes through the very small super-reinforced loop on the end of the daisy. There is just enough room to squeeze a carabiner through, much like the tight end of a quickdraw. Many people put the carabiner through the thinner black loop of webbing. This is the release mechanism and is not even rated for bodyweight.
Another possibility is that the locking mechanism cam unthreaded at some point and was not properly re-threaded.
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dingus
Jan 5, 2006, 4:11 PM
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
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Yates.
DMT
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