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justus
Oct 18, 2005, 5:00 PM
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This is topic is for free soloing enthusiasts/theorists. Please refrain from posting replies that simply state that free soloing is stupid, people who do it are stupid, etc!
SO, when free soloing i've heard and thought of different approaches. Some bring a rope with them so that there is always a way out; i myself have brought some pro so i could at least take a break if needed (for mental or physical reasons); and i've wondered if maybe i should be more of a purist and not wear a harness. What are people's thoughts. Obviously some will say "I think that whatever way you do it is ok. It's all up to your personal taste." That's not helpful. If you do have an opinion one way or another or some other philosophical addition or question please post.
Thanks,
Justus
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flamer
Oct 18, 2005, 5:28 PM
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When I first started soloing I considered all possibilties...carrying a rope, gear etc. What I've figured out is I'd rather not have to deal with any of these things and that's generally why I'm soloing in the first place. I don't solo anything where I might need gear or want a belay. Only time I carry a rope or harness is when the descent involves rappeling...and even then if I can down climb I use that option.
With that in mind I generally anaylze routes before i solo them...what are my avenue's of escape should I need them....can i climb onto another route that's easier? Could I down climb the route itself if need be? Could I traverse off?
I also do mental prep work....what to think about where...I visilise doing certain moves/combination's of moves. Generally I get myself to the point that there is not only do doubt that I can do it, but also there is extreme focus on specific's.
Now there are several routes that I've soloed repeatedly and on those I can just go and not have to worry about anything.....but I was defiantly ready the first time.
Be careful the focus you get is more addictive then heroin.....
josh
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thinman13
Oct 18, 2005, 5:41 PM
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For me, I like the idea that I am being "pure" while soloing. Thus, if possible, I like to do away with the harness and the rope and all of the gear that comes with. I have to mention that nearly all of my solos have been easy single pitches, often times with the possibility of traversing off to easy ground. I tend to feel much more relaxed when I plan on downclimbing the route, as then I am more in control over my situation. It is a great feeling of freedom to be able to go up or down comfortably on a freesolo.
I read somewhere that Charlie Fowler, during his really amazing free solos of the DNB in Yosemite and of the Casual Route on the Diamond in the 70s, clipped in to fixed pro with a long sling while negotiating the cruxes. In my mind, this does not detract from his accomplishments really at all. It still took an unbelievably confident climber to go up there and commit to the unknown like he did.
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asandh
Oct 18, 2005, 6:10 PM
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:)
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flamer
Oct 18, 2005, 6:12 PM
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In reply to: I read somewhere that Charlie Fowler, during his really amazing free solos of the DNB in Yosemite and of the Casual Route on the Diamond in the 70s, clipped in to fixed pro with a long sling while negotiating the cruxes.
You might be getting him confused with Henry Barber who did this on The steck-salathe....
Charlie is a member of this site...why not ask him?
While I understand your point about commitment, and agree with it. I do not think it's a true free solo....if you clip into something then there was protection at some point. I does take alot to commit to a route with only a long sling and a couple of crabs though....
josh
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flamer
Oct 18, 2005, 6:13 PM
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In reply to: justus wrote: In reply to: free soloing is stupid, people who do it are stupid ... :)
FUCK YOU PUSSY.
josh
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boltdude
Oct 18, 2005, 6:17 PM
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Techniques: good.
Philosophies: don't fall.
Anyone who solos and needs to talk about it online is ego-tripping.
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asandh
Oct 18, 2005, 6:19 PM
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:)
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billcoe_
Oct 18, 2005, 6:20 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: justus wrote: In reply to: free soloing is stupid, people who do it are stupid ... :) f--- YOU sissy. josh
Oh Oh, Flame war on the horizon.
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euancranston
Oct 18, 2005, 6:26 PM
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In reply to: justus wrote: In reply to: free soloing is stupid, people who do it are stupid ... :)
Personally the thought of it scares the s**t out of me, even DWS
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asandh
Oct 18, 2005, 6:40 PM
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:)
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thinman13
Oct 18, 2005, 6:42 PM
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Flamer - I could be wrong, but I don't think so.
(I pulled that info from Climb! A Rock Climbing History of Colorado).
From what I understand, Henry Barber told someone about his intended solo of the Steck Salathe, then went for it, thinking that he would not fall in any case, but that he might get stuck and not be able to proceed through the Narrows...I believe he actually did get stuck there and hung out over 15 minutes before getting past that section. It doesn't sound like Barber would bring any gear along for any solo, as he seemed to care a whole lot about style issues...
And, to all of you who are saying that people who talk about soloing are somehow lesser people than those who solo and do not talk about it...mind your own business. Why should it be unacceptable to discuss soloing over the internet or anywhere else? Soloists need not be introverts...
Tristan
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phillygoat
Oct 18, 2005, 7:33 PM
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I heard a good story about how Croft soloed a climb that had a sling hanging near the crux. He didn't use the sling, but the fact that this COULD of provided some escape bugged him enough to subsequently remove it and solo the route again. Anyone know the route? I'm not sure if I read this in a guidebook, the Alpinist, or heard it from a friend. Either way, I like it because it so clearly illustrates his philosophy on self reliance.
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flamer
Oct 18, 2005, 8:06 PM
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In reply to: Definition of solo Any activity that is performed alone without assistance. ----- If you are searching for knowledge, reassurance, virtual companionhsip, or ego stroking in this thread .... Your ego and or psyche needs the help of others .... therefore .... you are NOT a Free Soloer. :)
You are an idiot, and your opinion means nothing.
It could easily be said that anyone talking about anything is simply stroking their ego....I could give a shit less whether you care what I discuss or not.
josh
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euancranston
Oct 18, 2005, 8:12 PM
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Why is it that soloing posts always end up in so many arguments? It seems like solo posts are just an open invitation for slander (by the way im not in any way dissing any comments made on this post - everyone is entitled to their opinion!)
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flamer
Oct 18, 2005, 8:13 PM
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In reply to: Flamer - I could be wrong, but I don't think so. (I pulled that info from Climb! A Rock Climbing History of Colorado). From what I understand, Henry Barber told someone about his intended solo of the Steck Salathe, then went for it, thinking that he would not fall in any case, but that he might get stuck and not be able to proceed through the Narrows...I believe he actually did get stuck there and hung out over 15 minutes before getting past that section. It doesn't sound like Barber would bring any gear along for any solo, as he seemed to care a whole lot about style issues...
Hmmm....I own that book and have read it a couple of times....I don't remember any of that about charlie...I'll have to look it up again to be sure. Barber did use a sling on the first solo of the SS....he protected the slab pitch below the crux(which is a pitch below the narrows). This was discussed quite a bit after the death of Hersey, many commented on the fact that Barber was scared enough to protect that section and this brought about speculation as to whether hersey fell from there or else where...
And 1 more thing about soloing and talking about it in general...if you don't solo than you don't get to post in this thread....it's that simple....your opinion means nothing.
josh
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grayhghost
Oct 18, 2005, 8:15 PM
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In reply to: I heard a good story about how Croft soloed a climb that had a sling hanging near the crux. He didn't use the sling, but the fact that this COULD of provided some escape bugged him enough to subsequently remove it and solo the route again. Anyone know the route? I'm not sure if I read this in a guidebook, the Alpinist, or heard it from a friend. Either way, I like it because it so clearly illustrates his philosophy on self reliance.
That was during Croft's free solo of Astroman, 5.6 I believe.
Pussy.
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sidepull
Oct 18, 2005, 8:22 PM
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In reply to: This is topic is for free soloing enthusiasts/theorists.
theory?
equipment carried with you has a negative relationship with your commitment to the solo itself.
In other words, unless you're into onsight solos, you should have already scoped the route, worked the moves, and committed to it completely. Carrying stuff "just in case" provides a psychological safety cushion that demonstrates a lack of commitment and most likely leads to more danger than it avoids.
Also, I think there is some merit to debating the need for discussing "ethics" or "style" in soloing. Soloing is a purely selfish pursuit that is about an individual overcoming him/herself. Looking for social validation, particularly virtual validation, of such an internal, individual pursuit does seem to call into question that person's need for social validation. This isn't as true with other aspects of climbing that are inherently interpersonal.
Just thoughts.
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asandh
Oct 18, 2005, 8:23 PM
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:)
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euancranston
Oct 18, 2005, 8:28 PM
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In reply to: And 1 more thing about soloing and talking about it in general...if you don't solo than you don't get to post in this thread....it's that simple....your opinion means nothing. josh
I best go pulll some plastic down the gym then..................... :lol: :shock:
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cellardoor
Oct 18, 2005, 8:46 PM
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Speaking of free-soloing, does anybody remeber that thread alittle while ago about a famous free solo that involved some horizontal crack? The thread started with a picture of the guy haning there off his hand hams with his feet dangeling and no rope. I tried searching and can't find it now, anybody remeber who posted or a link to it.
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chris_sheridan
Oct 18, 2005, 8:50 PM
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I've done all three. Its a choice you should make depending on the route, conditions and what you want the experience to be like.
I've rope soloed several routes with full fledged belays while both aid and free climbing. It's slow but fun.
On the north face of the grand teton, I brought a lead rope, belayed myself on three or so pitches and went unroped on the rest.
On Right Chimney (mt meeker) I brought a harness, 6 mill rappel rope, a set of stoppers and a screamer. Through one hard section, I placed a stopper and clipped the screamer and my daisychain to it. I made the hard move, placed another stopper, moved my daisy up, and back cleaned the lower piece. The rappel rope never came out of the pack but I'm glad I had it.
Each solo climb has been amazingly rewarding, not because I've risked my life, but because I accomplished something through my own efforts. No one was there to pick up the slack if I didn't want to lead a pitch.
Each climb was an adventure because of the element of uncertainty. I knew that if I made good choices I would make it back alive, but choosing the styles that I did left plenty of chance that I wouldn't make it to the top. I think about the route and style for a good long while until I'm confident that those two categories have been met.
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markd
Oct 18, 2005, 9:11 PM
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In reply to: I heard a good story about how Croft soloed a climb that had a sling hanging near the crux. He didn't use the sling, but the fact that this COULD of provided some escape bugged him enough to subsequently remove it and solo the route again. Anyone know the route?
the rostrum.
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