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mistymountainhop
Oct 25, 2005, 1:09 AM
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Dont get me wrong, Im a trad climber and I favor trad over all else, but it seems to me most of the longer 4Pitch+ moderate (5.9-5.11) routes i get on are crappily sustained. Most of the climbs ive done have perhaps 1 to 5 moves of the actual precious grade and many contain pitches and pitches of easy stuff that even lack the need for a rope. Logically, my question for this thread is WHat are the best long trad routes that are sustained?
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asandh
Oct 25, 2005, 2:03 AM
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:)
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asandh
Oct 25, 2005, 2:07 AM
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Your profile says "Yosemite". Are you trolling or have you never really climbed in the Valley or the Meadows. And then just up the road you have Red Dihedral & Positive Vibrations on The Hulk. I'll let the LV locals rave about Red Rocks .... your post smells fishy .... :?
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guanoboy
Oct 25, 2005, 2:27 AM
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A few climbs jump to mind:
VMC direct direct on cannon cliff, NH - 8p, each 10+
DNB on Middle Cathedral, yosemite - 17p of 7,8,and 9
I recall Levitation 29 in red rocks being pretty sustained
Primrose dihedrals on Moses in Canyonlands is very sustained (5p?)
there are tons out there.
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phugganut
Oct 25, 2005, 2:31 AM
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Whodunnit at Tahquitz is fun. It's long and moderate and fairly sustained. You get crack, slab, chimney, offwidth, and even a small roof.
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antiqued
Oct 25, 2005, 4:43 PM
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Vertigo, Cannon Cliff 5.5, 5.8A0, 5.9,5.9,5.9
Down East, Cannon Cliff 5.6,5.9,5.3,5.9,5.10-
Intimidation, Cathedral Ledge 5.10c, 5 easy, 5.9,5.9
Cathedral Ledge: Women in Love Direct,?? Don't Fire ...11c,10c,9,9
Stoner's Highway, Middle Cathedral 10c, 10b,10b,10b, 9,10a, 10a and on
Honed Ranger, Laurel Knob something like 11a, 10-,9,10-,10,10-, 6,7
Surrealistic Pillar Direct/traveler's Buttress 10a, 7, 9+,8,3
Great WHite Way, Stone Mtn NC (pick a 9-10 start) then 9,9,8 - do it without sticky rubber for full real continuity
OK -I wont' make these pitch grades up, but they are fairly continuous
Lucky Streaks, Fairview Dome,
Unh-Unh, Fairveiw Dome,
Rinky Dink, NC Wall
Let's hear from the Black Canyon guys????
On and on and on
The real place to go may be to the limestone in the Eastern Alps - I'm reading of lots' of steep multipitch stuff
Maybe you are too talented - If the 11 stuff isn't real hard for you, then the 7-9 shit may be too easy. Counting the 4 letter grades as threee (+/- grades) then if 11d is in your sights, the 9-11 range covers 7 grade levels - is that like asking for a continuous 5.1-5.8 multipitch?
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brutusofwyde
Oct 25, 2005, 5:28 PM
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In reply to: Dont get me wrong, Im a trad climber and I favor trad over all else, but it seems to me most of the longer 4Pitch+ moderate (5.9-5.11) routes i get on are crappily sustained.
:lol:
Astroman. Nice, moderate route.
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tradmanclimbs
Oct 25, 2005, 5:38 PM
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T0 :roll: Oh my gosh, everything is just too easy for me Ethel, I must post on RC.com to make suer that everyone knows how hard i am :roll:
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j_ung
Oct 25, 2005, 6:05 PM
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Holy spray.
But then, what do I care? Get thee to Devils Tower.
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mistymountainhop
Oct 25, 2005, 6:46 PM
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In reply to: T0 :roll: Oh my gosh, everything is just too easy for me Ethel, I must post on RC.com to make suer that everyone knows how hard i am :roll:
im just trying to push myself, and most classics have just a really short crux. no need for negativity.
---- one of my subsequent posts didnt go through but i said something about how Astroman would def. be above my limit. its suppedly the best free route on the planet.......... maybe someday
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emilb
Oct 25, 2005, 6:51 PM
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Grand Funk is more like 9,8, 6 and under. Still a cool route but not sustained.
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tenesmus
Oct 25, 2005, 6:55 PM
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Levitation, Dances with Eagles, Iron Messiah, Epinephrine, for their grades are all worthy and consistent.
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hendicrimpin
Oct 25, 2005, 7:06 PM
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It's not that long - but how about Serenity with Sons of Yesterday. So fun
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alpinerockfiend
Oct 25, 2005, 7:22 PM
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I'll vouch for some routes I've done in the Tetons, which are definitely a beacon for adventurous moderate multipitch routes.
Death Canyon
The Snaz- 8 or 9 pitches. While there are only two 5.9 pitches, they are long and very sustained and no pitch on the route is easier than 5.7 (except the top-out slabs, but at 5.5 you take the rope off for them). You also have the option of finished on Cousin Leroy, which adds two AWESOME 5.9 pitches at the very top or Cousin Leroy's uncle, which adds a .10+, three-tiered roof pull as the last pitch!
Aerial Boundaries- 5 or 6 pitches of 5.10. The two crux pitches are AWESOME and the rest of the route is great 5.9 w/ a short 5.8 pitch.
There are many other routes in this canyon of the Tetons which are of a similar sustained nature. Caveat Emptor comes to mind, but I haven't done it yet. Be sure to check out the guidebooks.
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ambler
Oct 25, 2005, 7:24 PM
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In reply to: most classics have just a really short crux.
Plenty of these North American Classics are sustained.
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cragmasterp
Oct 25, 2005, 8:27 PM
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Steck-Salathe on Sentinal; Yosemite.
I found this route to be very sustained and a very long day for 5.9
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crankenstein
Oct 25, 2005, 8:46 PM
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Lots of good ones mentioned so far. How about adding The Casual Route on the Diamond. Or Birds of Fire on Chief's Head. If you don't like the approaches or the season isn't right for you then there's alway The Naked Edge in Eldo for a good 'moderate' outing. Oh, and don't forget Wunch's Dihedral in the South Platte.
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toml
Oct 27, 2005, 2:01 PM
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In reply to: Dont get me wrong, Im a trad climber and I favor trad over all else, but it seems to me most of the longer 4Pitch+ moderate (5.9-5.11) routes i get on are crappily sustained. Most of the climbs ive done have perhaps 1 to 5 moves of the actual precious grade and many contain pitches and pitches of easy stuff that even lack the need for a rope. Logically, my question for this thread is WHat are the best long trad routes that are sustained?
So if you're looking for 5.9-5.11 routes, is a 5 pitch route with 1 pitch of 5.11c and 4 pitches of continuous 5.9 considered "sustained"?
How about a 10 pitch route with 5 pitches of 5.10b and 5 pitches of 5.7?
How about a single pitch with 5 separate cruxes, like Welcome to the Gunks?
Chamonix has a ton of 4 pitch + routes with lots of pitches in the 5.9+ range, particularly in the Aiguilles de Chamonix. The whole friggin' guidebook, basically. Like Majorette Thatcher, 5.9 5.10+ 5.10 5.9 5.9 I think, sustained crack climbing the whole way.
Some routes are 20 pitches plus. I think Anouk (not in the guidebooks but well known) is like 24 pitches, of which 20 pitches are 5.10.
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thinman13
Oct 27, 2005, 2:23 PM
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Moby Grape at Cannon, for the 5.8 grade
Epinephrine at Red Rocks for 5.9
And, although it's past my definition of moderate, I can't believe no one's brought up Scenic Cruise, as it is very sustained at 5.10 for several pitches and almost every other pitch has some 5.9 moves. It goes on like this for 13-14 pitches.
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tgreene
Oct 27, 2005, 2:27 PM
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In reply to: Holy spray. But then, what do I care? Get thee to Devils Tower.
'A Bridge Too Far' will make you feel alive, while at the same time wishing you were dead! :shock:
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outsideguyzak
Oct 27, 2005, 3:28 PM
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Steck-Salathe is an excellent route in Yosemite. The hike up is very hard and sustained. The climb is VERY sustained and the hike down is sustained. Its a very sustained, but very fun day.
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davidji
Oct 27, 2005, 4:04 PM
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In reply to: 'A Bridge Too Far' will make you feel alive, while at the same time wishing you were dead! :shock: |
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