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flatstateclimber
Oct 26, 2005, 10:39 PM
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Fellow boulderererers--
I am planning a trip in early April. My two leading contenders for a locale are So Cal (specifically near L.A.), and So Ill. I have places to stay at either. My only expenses would be a rental car, gas, and plane ticket. All other things being equal, where should I go?
I'm looking for locals from either area to put in their $0.02, although I know that this could turn into chest-thumping over your turf. I will likely be alone on this trip, so locals climbing regularly during the week would be a plus as most guidebooks I've seen thus far are a little thin on complete beta and directions. I'd also be interested to hear from some of you who might've climbed in both.
Thanks, y'all.
--BJ
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litleclimberchick
Oct 26, 2005, 10:45 PM
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how sad, i'm the only person who's voted... but that aside, come to socal we have great climbing in the spring :)
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mistymountainhop
Oct 26, 2005, 11:04 PM
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Having lived in so ill and climbed in so cal i can say that So Cal will have a much better community of travelers. So Cal has alot more and the weather will be very predictable, whereas so ill in the spring can be complete crap.
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landgolier
Oct 26, 2005, 11:05 PM
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"a place to stay" in so cal can mean a lot of things. How close would you be to what areas?
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majoringinclimbing
Oct 26, 2005, 11:09 PM
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I would say it depends on what type of climbing you like best. If it is sandstone slopers than probably favor so ill!!
Matt
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organic
Oct 26, 2005, 11:36 PM
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In So. Ill. there is 6 or so climbing areas within 1 hours drive of Carbondale. Carbondale is a college town and everything is cheap. World class bouldering and some of the best sport climbing I have ever been on. The trad climbing here is ok but the Red River Gorge is around 4.5 hours away. I think Locale make So. Ill. a better choice, climbing in So Cal depending on where you are, The Josh is out in the middle of nowhere but there is a lifetime of climbing. Josh also tears up your hands a ton. It all depends on where you will be staying and what type of climbing you like to do and how hard you climb.
I just saw this was in the bouldering forum, head to So. Ill. man!!! You will not be disappointed. everything from V1-V14 or so and sick sandstone also some wicked bouldery sport climbing you probably won't find in so cal
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climbsocali
Oct 27, 2005, 12:12 AM
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so cali without a doubt, I dont see how this is in question.
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flatstateclimber
Oct 27, 2005, 2:03 AM
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I'm not exactly sure where my place to stay is, but I'm pretty sure that it's in/near L.A.-ish. I know Joshua Tree & Bishop are world-class, but is that a feasible drive from L.A. proper. I know I'm breaking some sort of boulderer code of honor by saying I'd rather not camp there if I don't have to. Old friend I'd be staying with out there. So Ill, definitely going to need to camp b/c it's a few hours from Chi-town for sure.
Places I've climbed that I've liked: Hound Ears NC, HP40 Alabama, LRC Tennessee. Then again, that's my limited experience. I'm pretty much a n00b when it comes to pulling on real rock!
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raymondjeffrey
Oct 27, 2005, 2:35 AM
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Southern Illinois, for sure. If you want exclusive cliques then go to Cali. If you want friendly midwesterners then head to So Ill. Not to mention how frickin' fun Southern Illinois University is in the spring.
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enjoimx
Oct 27, 2005, 3:10 AM
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Bishop is a long way from LA...6 hours at least.
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flatstateclimber
Oct 28, 2005, 12:36 AM
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So, scratch that whole staying with a friend thing in L.A. Apartment's too small for another person (read: smelly boulderererer). Camping out west, Bishop or J-Tree. Camping in So. Ill? So, which is the best to camp at as well? Fees? Bears? Chill locals?
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soillclimber
Oct 28, 2005, 4:57 PM
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Are you in Fla. now? I am in Yosemite and have to drive home to So Ill. It is forever, alright like 40 hours, but still; it is a long drive. So Ill is 2/3rds closer to you. The camping is free, locals are friendly and will probably show you around. The weather is unpredictable. So, if the weather is forecasted good, So Ill. If there is poor conditions...enjoy the drive. If you end up in So Ill you can email me for some beta, just do it in advance as i am only by a computer so often. What about HP40 and Chattanooga, TN?
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soillclimber
Oct 28, 2005, 5:00 PM
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Are you in Fla. now? I am in Yosemite and have to drive home to So Ill. It is forever, alright like 40 hours, but still; it is a long drive. So Ill is 2/3rds closer to you. The camping is free, locals are friendly and will probably show you around. The weather is unpredictable. So, if the weather is forecasted good, So Ill. If there is poor conditions...enjoy the drive. If you end up in So Ill you can email me for some beta, just do it in advance as i am only by a computer so often. What about HP40 and Chattanooga, TN?
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soillclimber
Oct 28, 2005, 5:06 PM
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Are you in Fla. now? I am in Yosemite and have to drive home to So Ill. It is forever, alright like 40 hours, but still; it is a long drive. So Ill is 2/3rds closer to you. The camping is free, locals are friendly and will probably show you around. The weather is unpredictable. So, if the weather is forecasted good, So Ill. If there is poor conditions...enjoy the drive. If you end up in So Ill you can email me for some beta, just do it in advance as i am only by a computer so often. What about HP40 and Chattanooga, TN?
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gnat
Oct 28, 2005, 5:37 PM
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SoIll may have some very nice bouldering and several different areas, yet weather this time of years could be pretty iffy. As far as some of the best sport climbing ..... hmmmm. :lol:
There is something to be said about staying in a smaller college town, particularly if locals are willing to give you a tour.
In the LA region, there are literally dozens of excellent bouldering areas. But the LA region is very big and climbers/areas dispersed. Though the weather in SoCal will beat SoIll [any time of year]. Contrary to what was said previously, Josh is neither the only bouldering spot nor is it in the middle of nowhere. Figure on 2 to 2.5 hours from LA. The Palm Springs Tram area is still climbable until the first snowfall hits the mountains.
If you are going to camp, well Josh is pretty nice. And if you are not going to be staying in LA (but camping instead), Hit Josh, then drive to Bishop. Plenty of great camping and fine bouldering.
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soulsurfer
Oct 28, 2005, 6:05 PM
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I would say go to SoIll to boulder. But I love sloper problems and I have never been there so I am a little biased. I do love J-tree but SoIll looks super fun. I have never boldered in the L.A. area proper so I cannot comment on the quality of the rock and fun factor.
SoIll All the way!
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climbingaggie03
Oct 28, 2005, 7:13 PM
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I thought this post was a joke, of course so-cal better weather and more rock than you'll have time for.
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cellardoor
Nov 10, 2005, 8:23 PM
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I'm assuming your bouldering. There is some incredible stuff in socall for bouldering from a lifetime of slabby granite to sick overhung crimpy granite and overhung volcanic stuff, to pocketed sandstone, etc. I've spent the last 3 years in la climbing. If your camping and willing to drive you can hit the big names. Of course Bishop is just absolutly incredibly. However, if your tied to la, there is quite a few smaller, lesser known places that are really good as well (tramway, pine mountain, etc.) Hook up with a locale for this. I don't know so ill, so i can't compare, but socal is great. I really hope you can make it to bishop, best i've experienced ever.
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usccabum
Nov 10, 2005, 10:11 PM
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Registered: Dec 11, 2003
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SoIll or So Cal, having climbed at both thats a tough one. The weather in SoIll can be hit or miss that time of year. If you want to hit SoIll maby go the last week in March. There is a lot to do down there. There are quite a few areas within an hours drive or so. You can camp for free at Jackson Falls. If you go during the week you might not see to many people, the weekend however is a diffrent story;)
So Cal on the other hand is veary nice to. The weather CAN NOT be beet. The varioty is nice, Sandstone, Granit, volcanic... THere are alot of small areas arond LA that would be good to spend a day at. You could climb at a diffrent crag every day. The drive to Josh is not as bad as people say, 3 hours at most, But they do rape you for camping. If you want to go big make the 7 hour drive up to bishop, youll never forget that trip.
So long story short, watch the weather, if its dry go to SoIll, you could drive there. If not grab the sun screen, your goin' to LA
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usccabum
Nov 10, 2005, 10:12 PM
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Registered: Dec 11, 2003
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SoIll or So Cal, having climbed at both thats a tough one. The weather in SoIll can be hit or miss that time of year. If you want to hit SoIll maby go the last week in March. There is a lot to do down there. There are quite a few areas within an hours drive or so. You can camp for free at Jackson Falls. If you go during the week you might not see to many people, the weekend however is a diffrent story;)
So Cal on the other hand is veary nice to. The weather CAN NOT be beet. The varioty is nice, Sandstone, Granit, volcanic... THere are alot of small areas arond LA that would be good to spend a day at. You could climb at a diffrent crag every day. The drive to Josh is not as bad as people say, 3 hours at most, But they do rape you for camping. If you want to go big make the 7 hour drive up to bishop, youll never forget that trip.
So long story short, watch the weather, if its dry go to SoIll, you could drive there. If not grab the sun screen, your goin' to LA
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oldskool
Nov 17, 2005, 6:27 PM
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hey i'm from SoCal, and you would have some fun out here, for sure! the bouldering is best in summer months -ie: tramway and black mt.-but for the spring, the area called the Jupiter Boulders is only 1and half hours from LA, and josh is like 2and a half...Josh is damn good, but the Jupiter rock is bulletproof, check out the pics of it on www.0friction.com ....also, i do have some out of the way desert areas that can really be great in April if its still cool in the deserts...otherwise, i hang at the TRAM...if you need beta or a partner, email me on here.
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ilikerock13
Nov 17, 2005, 6:34 PM
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Registered: May 30, 2005
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In reply to: Bishop is a long way from LA...6 hours at least. |
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