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franko
Oct 27, 2005, 6:23 AM
Post #26 of 36
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Registered: Sep 5, 2005
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Jitterbug said that a bowflex would do absolutely nothing to help the posters climbing. That's flat wrong. Any strength building exercise will help anyone's climbing. No doubt some exercises are more effective than simply pumping iron, or in the case of bowflex plastic, but being stronger helps. Trust me on this one...
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icarus_burned
Oct 27, 2005, 9:33 AM
Post #27 of 36
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in theory climbing is a good mix of concentric and isometric muscle contractions (holding the top of a lock off is an isometric for example)
main problem with iso's is that it doesnt waork the range of motion and you dont get a transfer of strength from one point in the range to another but become strong at one point only (the point you do your isometric on)
maybe a good idea to mix it up a little
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bensnyder
Oct 27, 2005, 5:19 PM
Post #28 of 36
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Registered: Sep 18, 2004
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In reply to: maybe a good idea to mix it up a little
Yep. This is probably best.
It is possible to have isometrics work the stabilizing muscles, however (i.e. one arm lock off). Any exercize, isometric or otherwise, which stresses the stabilizing muscles nessesary for climbing is preferable to a weight machine.
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deserteaglle
Oct 28, 2005, 9:26 PM
Post #29 of 36
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Well my question is, after reading some of the responses, Am I screwing myself by weight training twice a week? I was doing weights three times a week, and maybe running one day on the weekend, plus my active lifestyle. But since I got into rockclimbing, I've moved down to twice a week weight workouts, running at least three times a week, and climbing at least one day on the weekends (there are no crags or gyms here, have to drive at least 2 hours). I have been getting pissed off b/c even though I can climb much harder now than when I first started out (I didn't notice until I went back to a boulder that kicked my ass before and breezed through it)I am bulky. I never do less than 12 reps, but my trainer keeps putting on more weight, so I have gained a little bit. I have less flab all over, and I'm much harder, but my chest and stomach sticks out more. I don't mind my arms and legs being bulkier, I had hardcore chicken legs before, but this stomach shit is annoying. I weigh 202 now and am 6 feet tall. I imagine I could climb alot harder if I had the same arm/leg strength but about 20 less pounds. My trainer tells me this is diet, but I want you guys input. Should I could out all the crunches, leglifts, squats, benches, curls, etc. etc. and just run my ass off, or do I really just need to cut down on the chicken wings?
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bensnyder
Oct 29, 2005, 4:00 AM
Post #30 of 36
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Registered: Sep 18, 2004
Posts: 183
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In reply to: Well my question is, after reading some of the responses, Am I screwing myself by weight training twice a week? I was doing weights three times a week, and maybe running one day on the weekend, plus my active lifestyle. But since I got into rockclimbing, I've moved down to twice a week weight workouts, running at least three times a week, and climbing at least one day on the weekends (there are no crags or gyms here, have to drive at least 2 hours). I have been getting pissed off b/c even though I can climb much harder now than when I first started out (I didn't notice until I went back to a boulder that kicked my ass before and breezed through it)I am bulky. I never do less than 12 reps, but my trainer keeps putting on more weight, so I have gained a little bit. I have less flab all over, and I'm much harder, but my chest and stomach sticks out more. I don't mind my arms and legs being bulkier, I had hardcore chicken legs before, but this stomach s--- is annoying. I weigh 202 now and am 6 feet tall. I imagine I could climb alot harder if I had the same arm/leg strength but about 20 less pounds. My trainer tells me this is diet, but I want you guys input. Should I could out all the crunches, leglifts, squats, benches, curls, etc. etc. and just run my ass off, or do I really just need to cut down on the chicken wings?
I would say kick:
Leg presses/squats
Benchpressing
Replace:
curls with weighted pull ups/one arm lock offs
any weight machine exercize with its equivalent free weight exercize
On the fence:
Running - the muscles you want to loose will atrophy if you don't work them, and running might speed this process up. On the other hand, it may cause the muscles you are working to atrophy as well if you run too much.
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jitterbugclimb
Dec 3, 2005, 11:02 PM
Post #31 of 36
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Registered: Mar 8, 2005
Posts: 116
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In reply to: franko Posted: 27 Oct 2005 06:23 Post subject: Re: Most Effective Training Tool/Method Jitterbug said that a bowflex would do absolutely nothing to help the posters climbing. That's flat wrong. Any strength building exercise will help anyone's climbing. No doubt some exercises are more effective than simply pumping iron, or in the case of bowflex plastic, but being stronger helps. Trust me on this one...
Obviously, you could lift bags full of sh** that weigh 40 pounds and get stronger. But sh** stinks, so why pump sh**. The point was, expensive weight machines will not better your climbing any more than a gym membership or a cheap set of dumbells. Ithought that was clear, but obviously not clear enough for some people.
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iceisnice
Dec 3, 2005, 11:08 PM
Post #32 of 36
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Registered: Jun 2, 2004
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best training tool?........motivation.
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jitterbugclimb
Dec 3, 2005, 11:12 PM
Post #33 of 36
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In reply to: best training tool?........motivation.
Truth is spoken.
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dutyje
Dec 4, 2005, 12:19 AM
Post #34 of 36
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Registered: Apr 1, 2004
Posts: 727
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In reply to: Well my question is, after reading some of the responses, Am I screwing myself by weight training twice a week? I was doing weights three times a week, and maybe running one day on the weekend, plus my active lifestyle. But since I got into rockclimbing, I've moved down to twice a week weight workouts, running at least three times a week, and climbing at least one day on the weekends (there are no crags or gyms here, have to drive at least 2 hours). I have been getting pissed off b/c even though I can climb much harder now than when I first started out (I didn't notice until I went back to a boulder that kicked my ass before and breezed through it)I am bulky. I never do less than 12 reps, but my trainer keeps putting on more weight, so I have gained a little bit. I have less flab all over, and I'm much harder, but my chest and stomach sticks out more. I don't mind my arms and legs being bulkier, I had hardcore chicken legs before, but this stomach s--- is annoying. I weigh 202 now and am 6 feet tall. I imagine I could climb alot harder if I had the same arm/leg strength but about 20 less pounds. My trainer tells me this is diet, but I want you guys input. Should I could out all the crunches, leglifts, squats, benches, curls, etc. etc. and just run my ass off, or do I really just need to cut down on the chicken wings?
your trainer is right.. it's diet. With the amount of muscle you've built up, you'll probably have a pretty easy time losing weight. Cut the calories, let the weight drop, and watch your climbing improve immensely. You don't need to cut out the exercises.
I decided to go on a diet a little more than a year ago. I lost 30 pounds in 4 months. Over the same time, I made sure to keep up the workouts and take in enough protein. I gained 4 full letter grades in my climbing ability and became much better on really steep stuff.
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gavinshmavin
Dec 5, 2005, 12:28 AM
Post #35 of 36
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Registered: Nov 11, 2002
Posts: 19
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I wanted to weigh in with an alternative training idea: just climb a lot. Hard. That sounds flip, but I really mean it. Climbing hard is as much (probably more) about movement as it is about strength, and I think it's a huge mistake to think that strength gains are the best route to improvement.
To cite one example, I climbed for a few years with a guy who went from climbing 5.9 to climbing 5.14b in three years. He did get stronger during that time, obviously, but he never lifted weights regularly, just climbed a ton. By the time he climbed the .14b he could probably do like 15 pullups. Meanwhile I could do twice as many pullups but couldn't climb nearly as hard as he could. Why? He was much better at movement. He was also willing to take on really long-term climbing projects and stay motivated the whole time.
All this hangboard stuff sounds like a good way to get really good at hanging from stuff and not moving. That helps you not fall, but I would suggest that climbing is going to help you climb more than hanging (or doing pull-ups) ever will. Aside from all that, just hanging there sounds way less fun than climbing.
Having said all that, don't just go into the gym (or to the sport crag) and dink around climbing random stuff and lounging around for hours in between burns. Do multiple climbs in a row on routes below your limit (if you can climb 5.11, see how many 5.10s you can do in a session). Work projects that seem completely impossible. Get a weight vest; climb in it. Be cautious but work hard.
Gyms are wonderful for all this, if you have access to one.
Peace, and good luck.
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verticon
Dec 5, 2005, 7:39 AM
Post #36 of 36
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Registered: Aug 22, 2005
Posts: 223
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In reply to: All this hang-board stuff sounds like a good way to get really good at hanging from stuff and not moving. That helps you not fall, but I would suggest that climbing is going to help you climb more than hanging (or doing pull-ups) ever will. Aside from all that, just hanging there sounds way less fun than climbing.
http://www.planetfear.com/..._detail.asp?a_id=203
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