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8flood8
Nov 1, 2005, 8:13 AM
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how long is a "UIAA Fall" ?
thinking about ropes.
i have an old ass rope, no core shots... not too many lumps in it, to my knowledge it has never taken a "big" fall.
how big are these falls when the rope is "rated" for 6 falls?
do you think about fall ratings when you buy a new rope?
i am considering a new rope and i think "obviously" you should get one rated for as many falls as possible.
but i am also looking for a 70m rope. i can't ever find one with more than 4-6 falls on it and my gut tells me to go for the 10fall ones..
anyway.. just pondering any remarks?
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pembe_panter
Nov 1, 2005, 8:42 AM
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1. UIAA falls are 4.6 meters with a fall factor of 1.77 (4.6m fall with 2.6m rope length)
2. for single ropes, 5 rope samples should pass 5 concatenative falls each. For this purpose, rope manufacturers (SELECT and) supply 40m of rope, every two years. (Brand name differs here, which sample from where?)
3. Author mentions an aged (but not ever used) rope breaking in second UIAA fall in his book 'Rock & Ice Gear: Equipment for the Vertical World'.
This is an excellent book about climbing gear. I found many many things that I wanted to learn but couldn't find before reading this book.
regards.
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tisar
Nov 1, 2005, 9:05 AM
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I'd recommend this article about aging of ropes by the UIAA.
You'll also find tons of info about the UIAA tests and norms on their website http://www.UIAA.ch.
For the norm fall: It's hardly a fall that will ever occur in your climbing carreer. If so, you'll maybe not only have to retire your rope... :shock:
- Daniel
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daithi
Nov 1, 2005, 10:47 AM
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In reply to: how long is a "UIAA Fall" ?
It is a 4.8 m fall with 2.8 m of rope out giving a fall factor of 1.71! The following link shows it:
http://www.uiaa.ch/...N892DynamicRopes.pdf
In reply to: not too many lumps in it
In reply to: but i am also looking for a 70m rope. i can't ever find one with more than 4-6 falls
If it is UIAA certified then it has to survive at least 5 drops. I'm not sure what kind of rope you saw with 4 falls!
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overlord
Nov 1, 2005, 11:50 AM
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the usuall rule is the thicker the rope the more falls it can withstand.
but i have never seen a single climbing line with less than 5 falls. even the revelation wich is SUPER thin (9.2mm) is rated for 5-6.
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robo555
Nov 1, 2005, 1:35 PM
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No one's mentioned this yet, but important to note. the UIAA fall is done using a 80kg weight.
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toml
Nov 1, 2005, 2:00 PM
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In reply to: the usuall rule is the thicker the rope the more falls it can withstand. but i have never seen a single climbing line with less than 5 falls. even the revelation wich is SUPER thin (9.2mm) is rated for 5-6.
UIAA rating requires the rope to withstand 5 falls.
The usual rule is the thicker the CORE the more falls it can withstand.
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ctardi
Nov 1, 2005, 3:47 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: the usuall rule is the thicker the rope the more falls it can withstand. but i have never seen a single climbing line with less than 5 falls. even the revelation wich is SUPER thin (9.2mm) is rated for 5-6. UIAA rating requires the rope to withstand 5 falls. The usual rule is the thicker the CORE the more falls it can withstand.
Sheath thickness does not very and when it does it also makes a stronger rope, so the thicker the ROPE, the more falls it can withstand...usually.
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j_ung
Nov 1, 2005, 4:11 PM
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In reply to: Sheath thickness does not very and when it does...
Huh? Which is it?
FYI, 8F8: UIAA falls are pretty harsh and, in your climbing, should be extremely rare. Many rope makers recommend that you retire your rope after one such fall. If you approach 5-6 of them one rope, you might want to reevaluate your climbing goals. :wink:
IMO, rather than checking the fall numbers, it's a better idea to buy your rope based on the style of climbing for which it will be used. If you need a workhorse, TR/lead, project-working rope, buy for durability and go thick. If you need an ultralight, low friction, sending machine, go thin. Do you often climb long, winding routes over sharp, coarse stone? Go thick. Do you do nothing but onsight steep sport routes? Go thin. Ask what you'll be using it for. The answer should determine what you buy.
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zott
Nov 1, 2005, 4:35 PM
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Fall factor isn't everything..
I recently bought a 70 M rope (Sterling Nitro) 9.8 mm, 62 g/m, rated at 5 UIAA falls. Whereas it's great for long multi pitch trad routes, I quickly learned that it's no good for top roping.
So while it will take a number of lead falls, the fact that it's a lighter (thinner) rope, just makes it wear out so much faster. After using it for top rope one day, the wear was noticeable. I now use only my old 10.5 mm rope for top roping.
Just another thing to consider when buying any longer, lighter rope.
--Zott
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nrvna963
Nov 1, 2005, 4:54 PM
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If it makes you feel any better i have a rope that has had around 30 - 25-40 foot whippers and a few larger ones on it... and its not dead yet, that is i still do certain types of climbing on it.
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jt512
Nov 1, 2005, 4:58 PM
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In reply to: anyway.. just pondering any remarks?
Do A Search.
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curt
Nov 1, 2005, 5:01 PM
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deleted double post
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curt
Nov 1, 2005, 5:05 PM
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In reply to: ...FYI, 8F8: UIAA falls are pretty harsh and, in your climbing, should be extremely rare. Many rope makers recommend that you retire your rope after one such fall. If you approach 5-6 of them one rope, you might want to reevaluate your climbing goals. :wink:
I'd go so far as to say that it is impossible to ever take a standard UIAA test fall while climbing. Ropes passing 5 of these falls in a row are tremendously strong; that's why climbing ropes don't ever break from normal use.
Curt
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daithi
Nov 1, 2005, 11:39 PM
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In reply to: I'd go so far as to say that it is impossible to ever take a standard UIAA test fall while climbing.
In reply to: Anything is possible if you wish hard enough :)
Which aspect of it particular do you consider impossible? Surely it is conceivable to take a factor 1.71 fall. Is it the perfectly static belay or the loading over the 5 mm radius or something else I am missing that you consider not representative of a real life climbing situation?
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curt
Nov 1, 2005, 11:45 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: I'd go so far as to say that it is impossible to ever take a standard UIAA test fall while climbing. In reply to: Anything is possible if you wish hard enough :) Which aspect of it particular do you consider impossible? Surely it is conceivable to take a factor 1.71 fall. Is it the perfectly static belay or the loading over the 5 mm radius or something else I am missing that you consider not representative of a real life climbing situation?
It's the perfectly static belay. In real life, things move--and that lessens the force on the rope and gear. Your harness distorts, the belay device slips--at least a little, the belayer will be lifted some, etc., etc.
Curt
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mcfoley
Nov 1, 2005, 11:49 PM
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Do a friken gogle search for startes, then search prev posts...
did your momma dress you and do your homework?
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rainontin
Nov 2, 2005, 12:29 AM
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In reply to: Do a friken gogle search for startes, then search prev posts... did your momma dress you and do your homework?
Perhaps your "momma" should be checking your spelling?
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nickrp
Jan 15, 2008, 3:08 AM
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[quote "mcfoley"]Do a friken gogle search for startes, then search prev posts...
did your momma dress you and do your homework?[/quote]
why do people have to be so damn hostile? would you all rather people just not ask the questions and go out ill informed make a bad/wrong purchase and die? You all want your sport to continue and to do that, it will always need new climbers, and comments like that have a hell of a way to discourage people, so yeah why to go!
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jt512
Jan 15, 2008, 3:35 AM
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nickrp wrote: [quote "mcfoley"]Do a friken gogle search for startes, then search prev posts... did your momma dress you and do your homework?[/quote] why do people have to be so damn hostile? would you all rather people just not ask the questions and go out ill informed...
No, we'd rather they do a fucking google search.
Jay
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nickrp
Jan 15, 2008, 9:26 AM
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jt512 wrote: nickrp wrote: [quote "mcfoley"]Do a friken gogle search for startes, then search prev posts... did your momma dress you and do your homework?[/quote] why do people have to be so damn hostile? would you all rather people just not ask the questions and go out ill informed... No, we'd rather they do a fucking google search. Jay
Wow what do u do just search the forums for openings for u to be a jerk? If you dont want to help new climbers, get the hell outta the Question oriented forums.
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jt512
Jan 15, 2008, 4:10 PM
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nickrp wrote: jt512 wrote: nickrp wrote: [quote "mcfoley"]Do a friken gogle search for startes, then search prev posts... did your momma dress you and do your homework?[/quote] why do people have to be so damn hostile? would you all rather people just not ask the questions and go out ill informed... No, we'd rather they do a fucking google search. Jay Wow what do u do just search the forums for openings for u to be a jerk? If you dont want to help new climbers, get the hell outta the Question oriented forums.
The forums are "question oriented" by nature. The idea, though, is that you're supposed to search them first for an answer, Einstein. This is the only forum I know of that is so badly managed as to permit the same questions to be asked on practically a daily basis.
Jay
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billcoe_
Jan 15, 2008, 4:37 PM
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nickrp wrote: You all want your sport to continue and to do that, it will always need new climbers, and comments like that have a hell of a way to discourage people, so yeah why to go!
No, we don't need new climbers. I'm fine with less people. Bowling is safe, try that.
Why to go!
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billcoe_
Jan 15, 2008, 4:38 PM
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ps, even your thread revival skillz need work.
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Ghislain
Jan 15, 2008, 4:41 PM
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After reading several of Jay's posts in different forums, I now declare him to be an Internet Asshole. Maybe if repeated questions annoy you so much you should get off your computer and do something else.
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