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tomclimbs
Oct 28, 2005, 8:12 PM
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Hello,
I am heading up to zion next weekend to do some aiding with a friend. She doesn't lead much and just loves the idea of getting high and hanging out in the ledge. I got no poblem with that - hell I get to lead all the pitches. Which wall might be the best experience? I have climbed, touchstone, Moonlight and desert shield. I know that prodigal has crappy hauling and a river crossing. Is spaceshot inferior to this route? I suppose I will end up doing both of them eventually but I am looking for opinions as to which one would be more fun. As you see, I cannot decide so I will leave it up to you.
thanks
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atg200
Oct 28, 2005, 8:28 PM
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it'll be way warmer on spaceshot, which is a good thing right now.
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japhyryder
Oct 28, 2005, 8:55 PM
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If your planning on bringing a ledge to hang out on and spend the night I'd recommend prodigal, though colder your still in friggin Utah and will be fine, barring bad weather. Hauling isn't terrible except for the last/exit pitch, which you shouldn't haul anyway, just ferry your gear up after fixing to the big pine by the angels landing trail. Spaceshot is a grade IV wall, one day ascent. If you decide to stretch it out and do it in two days, hauling is going to be awful the first two chimney pitches and then again from earth orbit ledge (look at the rope groves when you get up there if you don't believe me). If you do decide to put yourself through this agony, bring a lower out rope for the pig, cause the upper pitches all lean to the right and the pig will end up quite a ways right of the line when cut loose. Make your friend haul since she loves the idea of getting high on the ledge or ehhh, whatever you said. hope you get good weather, and don't sweat the virgin crossing, that cold,murky water up to you knees is better than mean bean coffee to get you going in the morning.
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grk10vq
Oct 28, 2005, 9:42 PM
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In reply to: She doesn't lead much and just loves the idea of getting high and hanging out in the ledge.
I have a REALLY funny picture in my head right now.
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mikeehartley
Oct 28, 2005, 9:54 PM
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Ditto on Prodigal. Ditto on shuttling gear up the last pitch. Plus cruiser descent down the trail versus downclimbing and multiple raps on SS. Personally, I would never haul on SS.
There are a couple of spots on Prodigal where freeclimbing comes in handy so if its really cold... Nothing (except the last gulley pitch) is mandatory though.
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dangle
Oct 29, 2005, 12:12 AM
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If you MUST haul a ledge up a route where its not needed try not using a crowded trade route.
On Space Shot if you MUST then fix to the start of the aid and blast.
On Prodigal Sun last pitch I use the drilled angles well below the tree, fix the rope, descend a bit, hand haul the rack while the second jugs clearing if needed.
Anybody that insists on following free is an impractical idiot. I put the DAs on the left wall JUST to facilitate this standard wall tactic, but there always seem to be boneheads that want to go as far as they can, belay at the tree, and then spend 15 minutes screaming back and forth because they can't hear each other and the second wants to make sure he's on belay, and the crap is stuck, and yada yada.
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epic_ed
Oct 29, 2005, 1:14 AM
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Do yourself a favor and leave the ledge at home. Hauling through the first three pitches on Spaceshot would suck major ass. Hauling on Prodigal would create an unnecessary cluster fuck if there are other parties on the route.
It'd be more enjoyable to fix a few pitches on either route, go back in to town and have a nice meal, relax and camp -- then go back the next day to finish the route.
I've done Spaceshot and I think it would be the more enjoyable route this time of year. Days are short and the sun you get on Spaceshot will be welcomed.
Ed
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blacksamba
Oct 30, 2005, 12:30 AM
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In reply to: It'd be more enjoyable to fix a few pitches on either route, go back in to town and have a nice meal, relax and camp -- then go back the next day to finish the route. Ed
I heartily second this view, although you have to contend with the shuttle schedule in the morning so you wont get onto the wall intil 9:30 or 10:00 which can mean a long second day. Also a 70m rope would be super handy on P son, you can link the first few pitches and save time. If you can get them, trango nuts were made for P son and speed gear placements
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imove2fast
Oct 31, 2005, 4:36 AM
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Registered: Sep 26, 2004
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I thought that the shuttles were done running for the year at this point and that you could drive up whenever you pleased. Is this not correct? I guess I will have to go check the parks web site.
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mandrake
Nov 1, 2005, 9:47 PM
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Registered: Jan 7, 2004
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Check with the park on the shuttles. Try either their website or 435-772-0170. If they are still running, which I doubt, you can get a red pass from the backcountry desk at the visitors center which will allow you to drive up the canyon before the shuttles start. They're really cool at the backcountry desk.
I've done both routes, and they would both have areas that would suck to haul on. If you're worried about time, you can fix and fire with an early start on blast day. PS is all in the shade. Chilly. I'd recommend spaceshot. On SS, with a 70m rope you can fix from the top of 4 down to the bottom of 3, and then a 60 gets you to the ground from the bottom of 3. Check people's comments in the routes database for beta (click on their usernames in the "climbed by:").
Like Ron O (dangle) said, if you've gotta sleep on a ledge do it on a non-trade route. The trade routes are hard enough to get on already and with your resume, something a bit harder looks quite do-able.
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marc801
Nov 1, 2005, 10:18 PM
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Registered: Aug 1, 2005
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From the park web site:
The shuttle system will begin operations March 25, 2005 and run through October 31, 2005.
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paganmonkeyboy
Nov 1, 2005, 10:23 PM
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Registered: Apr 30, 2003
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In reply to: In reply to: She doesn't lead much and just loves the idea of getting high and hanging out in the ledge. I have a REALLY funny picture in my head right now.
Not the one with Tom DeLay naked like when we were bouldering the other day, is it ? Or the synthetic cows ? What do they look like anyway ?
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dangle
Nov 1, 2005, 10:35 PM
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Registered: Apr 2, 2004
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After the big costume party at the Bit last night I went up to the base of SS.
Awesome. No lights nearby the stars were infinite and unfathomable eclipsed only by the walls.
Then of course I lost a good climbing day by sleeping half the morning.
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matd
Dec 13, 2005, 1:17 AM
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Registered: Aug 26, 2002
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You should give "IdiOdyssey" a look. It breaks off Swoop Gimp and sees a good deal of sun in the winter. I did it January.
Tons of engaging climbing. Highly recomended. Be warned, like the PS and SS, there is some nightmarish hauling up high. I'll leave it at that.
Have fun up there.
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