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eclipsecd
Nov 1, 2005, 10:44 PM
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Registered: Nov 1, 2005
Posts: 1
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Let me start off by saying that I am completely new to climbing with ropes and pro. I have bouldered for many years, and I am starting to want to branch out of this sheltered existence and into the wide world of mountaineering, sport and trad climbing.
For the next few months I will be in a very unique position to get whatever climbing gear I want for extremely cheap. I wish to use this opportunity to get as established a climbing rack as I possibly can, while cost is not an issue. I am seeking some solid advice on what I should buy, and how I should buy climbing pieces that will have the most versatility so that I can somewhat minimize expenses. I realize that most people spend several years, if not more, acquiring racks that are suitable for their needs. Unfortunately, I will have to rush headlong into this, without any preconceived notions of what my preferences or needs will ultimately be.
Stuff that I have already bought:
-BD C4’s 4 through .4 with two #1’s and #2’s
-70m Ultralight Arc Rope
-Aliens grey through blue
My biggest worry is that I need to buy carabineers that will be good for as broad a range of climbing as possible (with the exception of aid). Currently my thought is that I will go with WC Heliums for all of my rope end biners, racking cams, and for my runners. I have absolutely no clue what a good choice is for the bolt end biner, though I’m leaning towards some kind of straight gate keylock. I also have no clue what other types of biners I should have, especially for building anchors in sport, trad and/or ice. I am leaning towards the DMM walnuts because they appear to have a good range of placement options, and I am also unsure if I should buy hexes or tricams.
Any input would be much appreciated. And I guess the ultimate question is: With out being overly concerned about money, how would you buy the most versatile rack possible?
Thanks all, and sorry for the length!
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tragic_photography
Nov 1, 2005, 11:14 PM
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Registered: Feb 12, 2005
Posts: 99
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Somebody got in on a wholesale gig...
Well, the Heliums are an awesome choice man. For the gear end I reccommend Trango Superfly Wiregates, they are a super-light biner with a nice sized opening.
Buy some Yates Screamers.
The Walnuts are a good choice, I buy doubles of everything.
The 3 biggest hexes come in handy sometimes.
Tricams are awesome for certain alpine climbing.
Buy some LoweBalls, you'll never regret it.
Maybe get a full set of Camalots? Doubled in the mid-range.
A bunch of Mammut 8mmx60cm runners.
Buy a selection of BD ice screws.
I suggest Trango Madame Hooks for ice tools.
A set of PMI 8.1 twins.
Ice Screamers.
Trango Boots.
Grivel Points.
Gosh, this is crazy. Feel like adopting a 17 year old?
Hope that heels some. ~Stoney
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erin
Nov 1, 2005, 11:19 PM
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Registered: Jul 27, 2005
Posts: 149
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Where's the problem? If cost is not an issue, buy everything.
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wolfeman
Nov 1, 2005, 11:56 PM
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Registered: Aug 31, 2003
Posts: 78
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The wire gates are very versatile. They can be used for racking (I like the Dovals), either end of the draws (I like the neutrinos), they are light, and tend not to jam up on ice climbs.
There are great "package" deals on some of the retailer websites, sch as REI outlet, mountain gear and MEC. Check around.
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deserteaglle
Nov 2, 2005, 3:02 PM
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Registered: Sep 21, 2005
Posts: 1617
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In reply to: erin wrote: Where's the problem? If cost is not an issue, buy everything
Sweet. Maybe you should read all like forty two pages of Ask The Noob. Subtle's wisdom is boundless, and you will come away a much better climber/noob. His mantra is, if you are going to do trad, buy every piece imaginable...even if you don't know what it is, in fact especially if you don't know what it is.
Hope that helps. Good luck
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