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jeapord
Nov 10, 2005, 3:44 AM
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I have only top roped and I am wondering how, after clipping into quick-draws and climbing to the top, do you retrieve them? One obviously can't down-climb a difficult route. How?
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lewisiarediviva
Nov 10, 2005, 3:49 AM
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I recommend belaying that person that just belayed you.
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jeapord
Nov 10, 2005, 3:55 AM
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What is that person is unable to climb the route? (A lower skill level)
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squierbypetzl
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Nov 10, 2005, 3:55 AM
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You can either clip into the anchors at the very top and rappel down, cleaning the route as you go, or you can have your belayer lower you while you take your draws off (the route).
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rckymntneer
Nov 10, 2005, 3:59 AM
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In reply to: I have only top roped and I am wondering how, after clipping into quick-draws and climbing to the top, do you retrieve them? One obviously can't down-climb a difficult route. How?
In climbing, there are moves called "dynamic" moves, or dyno for short. They are moves where you actualy leap, and aren't in contact with the rock for a brief amount of time. Really good climbers just dyno back down to the top quick-draw and grab it. They hang on to the rock, retrieve it, then dyno to the next one, and so forth. :lol: :lol: :lol:
On the other hand, you can simply rap back down, cleaning your gear as you go, or belay your partner up to the anchors, and he/she can clean them on the way up! :P
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squierbypetzl
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Nov 10, 2005, 4:16 AM
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In reply to: What is that person is unable to climb the route? (A lower skill level)
You mean if they have to bail?? That´s a whole other issue.
Sport bailing isn´t that hard (compared to trad at least), but it involves leaving a piece of hardware or 2 on the route...
edit: couldn´t find the link.
What most people (in my limited bailing experience) do is take 1, preferably 2, "leaver biners" with them on a route. If they find themselves stranded, with no chance or desire to press on they clip their "leaver biners" into the highest 2 bolts they´ve reached. Then they just have their belayer lower them and they take their quikdraws off the wall on the way down.
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squierbypetzl
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Nov 10, 2005, 5:27 AM
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I´m guessing you´re talking about using a sling... yes?
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kachoong
Nov 10, 2005, 5:29 AM
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In reply to: I have only top roped and I am wondering how, after clipping into quick-draws and climbing to the top, do you retrieve them? One obviously can't down-climb a difficult route. How? |
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rockmad
Nov 10, 2005, 5:48 AM
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Use a sling in the last bolt you have reached. Its complicated to explain over the internet, at least it would be for me. Or you could use one of these,
http://rds.yahoo.com/...dware/Quick-Link.jpg
rather then leave a 'biner. just make sure you screw it up tight.
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squierbypetzl
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Nov 10, 2005, 5:56 AM
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In reply to: rather then leave a 'biner. just make sure you screw it up tight.
Was gonna suggest this, but I don´t want to hear about some1 dying because they bought the wrong type of screw link (or worse, a keychain). You can find ´em in hardware stores...
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rockmad
Nov 10, 2005, 9:18 AM
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Yeah I guess your right, IGNORE my last post. Unless you know what your doing :shock:
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overlord
Nov 10, 2005, 10:33 AM
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In reply to: I have only top roped and I am wondering how, after clipping into quick-draws and climbing to the top, do you retrieve them? One obviously can't down-climb a difficult route. How?
go take a climbing class. seriously. or find someone experienced (and i dont mean "experienced") to show you.
i could tell you how to do it, but doing so over the internet could lead to missunderstanding and to your early demise. seriously, some things youve just got to learn in person. especially the basics.
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skinner
Nov 10, 2005, 11:27 AM
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In reply to: Use a sling in the last bolt you have reached. Its complicated to explain over the internet, at least it would be for me. Or you could use one of these, http://rds.yahoo.com/...dware/Quick-Link.jpg rather then leave a 'biner. just make sure you screw it up tight.
I am sure you didn't mean physically up or down, but rotating maillons so that you actually screw it *Down* tight is a good idea. That way any vibration, etc. it has now where to go. The stainless steel ones are great but cost almost the same as a biner.
Rap rings and some sling can certainly come in handy too.
http://www.backcountrygear.com/images/smcrapring.jpg
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blueeyedclimber
Nov 10, 2005, 2:02 PM
Post #16 of 19
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In reply to: What is that person is unable to climb the route? (A lower skill level)
I assume you are talking about an overhanging route where retrieving the draws becomes more difficult.
If no one is able to follow and clean there are two "easiest" ways. 1. Attach a draw from your belay loop to the rope going to the belayer. This is called "tramming" and will keep you close to the rock as you are lowered. As you descend, clean the draws. The more overhanging the route, the more strenuous it will be to clean. Just be aware that when you clean the last draw, you will swing out. Sometimes it is better to clean the first draw, and then clean the second. 2. The second way is for you to toprope the climb and clean them. Depending on how hard the climb was and how wiped you are, this may not be possible if it took everything you had.
The third way is to leave your draws.
Josh
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rockmad
Nov 10, 2005, 5:13 PM
Post #17 of 19
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Yes, I didnt mean physically in the "up" position
In reply to: In reply to: Use a sling in the last bolt you have reached. Its complicated to explain over the internet, at least it would be for me. Or you could use one of these, http://rds.yahoo.com/...dware/Quick-Link.jpg rather then leave a 'biner. just make sure you screw it up tight. I am sure you didn't mean physically up or down, but rotating maillons so that you actually screw it *Down* tight is a good idea. That way any vibration, etc. it has now where to go. The stainless steel ones are great but cost almost the same as a biner. Rap rings and some sling can certainly come in handy too. http://www.backcountrygear.com/images/smcrapring.jpg |
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tisakson
Nov 10, 2005, 5:34 PM
Post #18 of 19
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Registered: Jun 14, 2005
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It all depends on the route. Most sport routes go straight up and have chains or rappel rings at the anchor bolts. In this case simply anchor yourself into both of them, equalizing the weight, using some slings or draws and then untie your rope from your harness, (after you have tied it off to yourself or anchor in case you drop it after untieing it!!). Put the rope through the chains or rappel rings and retie back into your harness and have your belayer pull the slack out and put you back on belay. Then undo your two anchor pieces and have the belayer safely lower you to each draw to retrieve it. Pull the rope down when you are on the ground.
(oh, also make sure the route isn't longer than half of your rope length, and best if someone shows you this technique, I don't want to be responsible for a screw up!!)
In other cases where the route may be super steep or have sharp edges and go right or left extremely, it would be best to either rappel from the anchors or do a top belay to get your buddy up and then rap down together. Peace.
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