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fishstew
Nov 18, 2005, 9:49 AM
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Hey all, I just went to SLO last weekend to visit after moving away about a year and a half ago and decided to climb. The routes on cracked wall however seemed to have changed, and many new bolts have been placed but I was taking a closer look an quite a bit seem to not be needed. On a few routes the bolts are only inches from great pro placement, so I'm a bit confused. Have people just decided as a community to bolt the place? Or what's going on? I guess I can see the good and the bad but I was wondering what the locals thought about the many new bolts that seem to be popping up.
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enjoimx
Nov 28, 2005, 3:40 AM
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What bolts exactly are you talking about? Are you talking about Only way to Fly? Thats the only route I can think of that has been retro bolted (except Thin Man which saw one new bolt which was promptly chopped). Theres probably been a couple new routes since you moved away, so I wouldnt worry about it too much.
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fishstew
Nov 28, 2005, 6:12 AM
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Yea, Only Way to Fly definately seemed a little over done, but it's cool to see new routes going up. Thanks for the info!
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tslater
Dec 1, 2005, 9:57 PM
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Yes, I can see why this looks confusing.
There are 4 new routes (relatively speaking).
Burn Permit (sport variation of No permit Required), Fly Away (sport variation of Only Way to Fly), Rat Race (starts at Civilized Evil), and Crankin' (sport variation of Crank you thank you) are all well bolted sport routes. They were all done by Ken Klis between 2002-2004.
So it is accurate to say that we aren't retro-bolting, but sport climbing has arrived in a big way. Ken is a long time local and in my opinion knows what he is doing.
All these routes and others will be detailed in the new guide due in January (it is at the printers, I swear!). I hope this helps.
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fishstew
Dec 2, 2005, 3:41 AM
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Thanks, yea it does help a lot. It's always cool to see new routes going up y'know? I love the area and just wanted to see what was going on. I can't wait for the new edition to come out and try some of the new routes. Thanks again!
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vincent
Dec 2, 2005, 3:53 AM
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does "Rat Race" go up to that second bolt above and right of the first bolt on "civilized evil" ? i thought that was a route called "Bukake"... rating?
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tslater
Dec 8, 2005, 4:45 AM
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Yes, Rat Race starts on CE and then goes up 4 more bolts (total of 5), and bring some pro- thin to 3". Ken put up the routes and named them. Rat Race is 5.11d (small roof move is crux).
If you want to see some fun pics of central coast climbing then go to slatervision.com. The cover of the new guide is there also to check out.
T
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tslater
Dec 8, 2005, 4:47 AM
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Hey fishstew, since you're now NorCal, have you heard of Wine Country Rocks guidebook and do you know where I can get a copy? T
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caughtinside
Dec 8, 2005, 4:59 AM
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In reply to: Hey fishstew, since you're now NorCal, have you heard of Wine Country Rocks guidebook and do you know where I can get a copy? T
Author's website. Most of the areas in the guide are bouldering.
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rcpeters
Dec 8, 2005, 6:05 AM
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It's hard to believe some one tried to add a bolt to Thin Man. I've never been fond of run outs, but I've always made an exception for Thin Man. I've even climbed it by moonlight and a headlamp. Change will happen, but I hope people will respect the character of Thin Man.
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fishstew
Dec 8, 2005, 8:00 AM
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hey slater! Nah, I haven't heard of the area, but I checked the guys link and it looks pretty awsome. Most of what I've climbed around here is at India Rocks or Remillard Park, nothing to exciting I'm afraid, and no lead climbs!!! : (
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tslater
Dec 8, 2005, 4:33 PM
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Cool. I grew up in the Bay Area (Gray Area) and I know what you're in for. I learned to climb at Castle Rocks. Some fun stuff. But the bouldering is awesome. Really great! No wonder Chris Sharma (grew up there) is such a bouldering fanatic. Although I can't believe he quit surfing altogether for it. At least you're closer than me to the Grotto in Sonora (Jamestown). If you haven't been there, get there as fast as you can.
And Mr. Caughtinside (great name, horrible feeling), thanks for the link. I'll go check it out.
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hasbeen
Dec 8, 2005, 5:01 PM
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is aaron rough still on this site? he and doniel were developing a place in the wine country, near st. helena, which already had the best sport climbing in the bay area.
tom, let me know when the guide's out. i reckon i'll have head north of the tor again at some point to check out the new stuff.
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hasbeen
Dec 8, 2005, 5:07 PM
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also, what's the latest on romoldo? still closed? did englekirk try that old project of mine?
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tslater
Dec 8, 2005, 8:08 PM
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hey Has, Romualdo is still closed but we're maybe making a deal with the NG next week. I'll keep everyone posted.
And Doug Englekirk... I'm dragging him to the Tor on Saturday if the waves suck. Branond and Paul loved Hell Sinners. There should be some of my pics posted either today or tomorrow. Nice job on the route. There is a good one of Phil doing a mono-dyno on Ballroom.
The guide is now at the printers. Out in January.
T
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bler
Dec 8, 2005, 8:42 PM
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In reply to: Cool. I grew up in the Bay Area (Gray Area) and I know what you're in for. I learned to climb at Castle Rocks. Some fun stuff. But the bouldering is awesome. Really great! No wonder Chris Sharma (grew up there) is such a bouldering fanatic. Although I can't believe he quit surfing altogether for it. At least you're closer than me to the Grotto in Sonora (Jamestown). If you haven't been there, get there as fast as you can. And Mr. Caughtinside (great name, horrible feeling), thanks for the link. I'll go check it out.
I personally disagree with Castle Rock being a 'great' bouldering area..
i find that is is a decent sandstone area with very close proximity to the bay area(witch is it's main draw), but I find the real jems of bouldering in northern california lie in yosemite and tahoe(on REAL rock[granite] not the chossy sandstone of castle).
there is just so much great bouldering in those areas and a lot that has not even been tapped yet.
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tslater
Dec 8, 2005, 8:58 PM
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Of course. Everything pales when compared to those places. That goes without saying.
But he is in Berekely. Castle is what... an hour away?
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