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superevolved
Nov 21, 2005, 9:57 PM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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HI.
I am building a 35 ft crack machine up the side of an existing climbing tower. I have read all the info on this site and tradgirl but i am still undecided on a few points. Firstly to paint on texture or to leave it natural? Would it not make it last longer and prevent splinters? What other pro's and cons should i be weighing in. Keep in mind i am a just beginning to hone my crack technique. Also, how far apart should i spread my bolts? Would flexing of the boards be a problem when you jam? Any other info you think i should consider would be appreciated. I will post pics when i am done if anyone is interested.
Thanks,
Ali.
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chouca
Nov 21, 2005, 11:01 PM
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Registered: Feb 12, 2003
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Painting the surface is a good idea, and I also recommend using wood blocks as spacers around the bolts. This protects your hands from getting shredded by the bolt threads, allows the crack have the size changed from finger to wide fist by changing the spacers, and acts as a washer to reduce the flexing.
Have fun,
Marc
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davidorchard
Nov 21, 2005, 11:06 PM
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Registered: Sep 2, 2002
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i have a small adjustable crack that i built a year or two ago. the funny part about it is i set it to a certain size and have yet to move it. here is what i have learned.
the boards if unsupported every couple feet flex considerably. so you might want to test out a small version before you build the whole thing.
wood seemed too slippery to get a good jam on. i solved this problem with skateboard tape. you can buy it by the yard at your local skate shop.
pics would be great. i have been meaning to document mine, but i am pretty unorganized. good luck
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greenketch
Nov 22, 2005, 1:03 AM
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Registered: Jan 12, 2005
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I made my crack with 2" x 10"s. There are all thread sections that are 12" long to adjust it. They are spaced at 1' centers vertically with 4" of seperation (1 piece 1" from back, next one 5" from back, next one 1" etc.).
This allows me to taper the crack in any direction easily and I have had no challenges with flex.
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builttospill
Nov 22, 2005, 3:39 AM
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Registered: Jan 8, 2004
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Wouldn't grip tape tear the hell out of your hand? I guess the friction would be nice though for the actual climbing.
Hopefully I'll be building a pretty big home wall in about a month when we sign papers on a place, and I'd like to have a crack system as one of the centerpieces. We'll see though.
I'm gonna try and make the wall have adjustable width cracks (as you guys mentioned), as well as adjustable degrees of steepness. Hopefully I'll be able to have it lean back a bit, just a bit less than vertical, so that it simulates the routes I actually climb outside a bit more.....less holds and not overhung. That's my goal anyway.
I might try tapered cracks, but it seems like it might be significantly more difficult to engineer than simple width-changes.
Any other things I should consider---not to hijack the thread, but oh well.....I would also like to know about wall texture, having read tradgirl and what not.
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jakewolf
Nov 22, 2005, 5:10 AM
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Registered: Apr 8, 2002
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I am not the type to be negative, but the grip tape idea is a bad one. I have climbed on many indoor cracks and texture is a bad idea. You will tear up your hands and you technique will suck. Painted may be okay, but no texture. I have climbed on unpainted cracks that were sanded and they are great. Trust me when you learn to jam without texture it will be way easier when you do it on real rock. I can't stress this enough.
To eliminate flex create two I-beams that move toward each other. There will be no flex.
good luck
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crackaddict
Nov 22, 2005, 5:24 AM
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Registered: Jun 24, 2000
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Click on my photos for some pics of one I built some time back. The pics suck, hope it helps.
It is now part of a bouldering cave in my garage,
Texture is a must. I never had a problem with it flexing with the bolts 3 ft apart.
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alpine_monk
Nov 22, 2005, 5:25 AM
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Registered: Oct 9, 2005
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When I saw the title of this thread I thought it was something you could buy at Desert Joes Resole and Adult Toys
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