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chossmonkey


Dec 1, 2005, 5:24 AM
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That 5.6 that gets done in the nude in the 'Gunks'; I can't remember the name.

Do you mean Shockley's Ceiling? While a pretty good route, it is about as far from a sport route as you can get.

Totem Pole is pretty cool.


jbeta


Dec 1, 2005, 3:03 PM
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I forgot one...

She's the Bosch, City of Rocks.


moonshine505


Dec 1, 2005, 3:15 PM
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Hmmm, I'll second a few of the above including Predator at Rumney, Bullet the Blue Sky (although it's CHIPPED and could detract from the "classic" status in some people's mind???) and the Eighth Day at Rifle. Also on the list should be Goliath, at new mexico's enchanted tower. There's plenty of other USA sport routes that offer great climbing, or are on a striking piece of rock, but combining the 2 makes a route a classic, and those I've listed have both qualities in spades.


willywilderness


Dec 1, 2005, 3:19 PM
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"She's the Bosch" - City of Rocks, Idaho (11-)
1st pitch of "End Game" - Cochise Stronghold", Arizona (10+)
"Running Man" - Red Rocks, Nevada (11-)
"Post Moderate" - Diablo Canyon, New Mexico (9+)
"Window Pane" - Hueco Tanks, Texas (10-)


lightrack


Dec 1, 2005, 3:22 PM
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Levitation 29...


crackmd


Dec 1, 2005, 4:08 PM
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Levitation 29...

Have you climbed that route? To me that is a classic case of how a bolted route is not necessarily a sport route. The approach, exposure, descent and walkout made this feel far from sportclimbing to me. That said, it is mostly well bolted and requires not a lot of supplemental gear (wires and a few cams if I remember correctly). I have seen guys who have all the Gallery routes mastered crying like babies and frenchfreeing the crux corner/stem/thinedge pitch. If you are expecting a 5.11 clipup then you may get a lot more than you bargained for on Levitation 29. It is one of my favorite routes of all time.


climb1212


Dec 1, 2005, 4:21 PM
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I haven't climbed it, but The Fall of Man (13b) at the VRG seems to hold the qualities of a classic and difficult sport route.


boadman


Dec 1, 2005, 4:24 PM
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I'm not implying that I've sent all of these by listing them, they're just gorgeous routes.

Hand Me The Cantina Boy - Rifle
Fall of Man - VRG
Third Millenium - The Monastary
Techno-Surfer - Rumney
Eyeless & Gaza - Sundown
The Example - Shelf Road
Fuzzy Undercling - Military Wall


redpoint73


Dec 1, 2005, 4:54 PM
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Hate to be anal, but its "Technosurfing" and "Eyeless in Gaza".

And thanks for giving us northeasters a nod.


lightrack


Dec 1, 2005, 4:55 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Levitation 29...

Have you climbed that route? To me that is a classic case of how a bolted route is not necessarily a sport route. The approach, exposure, descent and walkout made this feel far from sport climbing to me. That said, it is mostly well bolted and requires not a lot of supplemental gear (wires and a few cams if I remember correctly). I have seen guys who have all the Gallery routes mastered crying like babies and frenchfreeing the crux corner/stem/thin edge pitch. If you are expecting a 5.11 clip up then you may get a lot more than you bargained for on Levitation 29. It is one of my favorite routes of all time.

Yes, I have climbed that route (reason I posted it). It is a sweet route, but it definitely felt like a sporty to me (13 bolts on the 70 foot crux pitch). The exposure and hike make it feel a little less like a sport route, but not too much. Only a very small trad rack is needed. And yes it is a very good route.


mcgivney_nh


Dec 1, 2005, 5:02 PM
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Surf Safari
The Fly, Rumney

I'd say that Predator is more of classic than the Fly...

-Sean


jeapord


Dec 1, 2005, 5:03 PM
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Midget Digits-Sand Rock, AL 11b


granite_grrl


Dec 1, 2005, 5:10 PM
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'Dream of Wild Turkeys' 5.10a Red Rock Canyon

There are bolted sections, but I wouldn't go up this without a proper rack!

Great climb though 8^)


moonshine505


Dec 1, 2005, 6:07 PM
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Agree that the fly is not a "classic" route. But I'd say livin' astro is. It's a striking feature. As an updated list for classic status, asthetics, quality of movement, rock quality, length, history. I'm up in the air over "natural" requriements. For example, the compton cave is in a pretty beautiful area, the cave is awe-inspiring, and most of the climbs in it have great movement. BUT the routes are also seriously manufactured. So, I don't think they qualify as classics. How you look at routes like Bullet the Blue Sky with it's drilled pockets at the start or the few manufactured holds on the the otherwise natural (and totally amazing) Living in Fear at Rifle. Eh, you decide.


mbg


Dec 1, 2005, 6:20 PM
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Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but the euro pockets on BTBS (drilled after the FA) have been filled in.


thebingman07


Dec 1, 2005, 6:34 PM
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I vouch for whiskey a go go. Gorgeous climb with rad moves.


stabla


Dec 1, 2005, 6:52 PM
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Fuzzy Undercling-RRG
Jump Start-Barn Bluff, MN
Jim Dandy-Linville Gorge, NC
Waves-Mt. Rushmore, SD
These are four that i really have enjoyed...(climbed multiple times)


hosebeats


Dec 1, 2005, 6:57 PM
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The Wave in Squamish. I've only seen pics but it is the most striking sport climb I've seen.


chossmonkey


Dec 1, 2005, 7:05 PM
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Jump Start-Barn Bluff, MN

:wtf:

While there are some fun routes at BB I wouldn't say any of them are really "Classic". Far too many rock quality issues.


shazinky


Dec 1, 2005, 7:14 PM
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Cecilville Bluffs
chronic fatigue-13b
chronic-13a

Trinity Aretes
If-13c
smoke signals-13d

We met Chris Lindner out at the arete's last fall and got to see him send "smoke signals" in 3 tries awesome. Iwent back this spring to try and was very close (1 hang) it is all I can think about so I had 2 add it to this list.


ikefromla


Dec 1, 2005, 7:47 PM
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Both "Infectious Groove" and "Screaming Target" (13b and c respectively) at Mt Charleston, NV are incredibly classic routes. the former offering an endurance crux at around move number 30 and the latter requiring the most desperate V5/6-ish boulder problem to be climbed after what feels to be about 13a/b in its own right!

other candidates that i can think of:
Lactic Acid Bath, 12d at the New, WV
Flex Luthor, the Fortress, CO (looks absolutely ridiculous)
Livin Astro, Rumney

And without a doubt, The Gift, at Red Rocks is the most classic 5.12c sport climb on the planet.


ikefromla


Dec 1, 2005, 7:49 PM
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In reply to:
We met Chris Lindner out at the arete's last fall and got to see him send "smoke signals" in 3 tries awesome. Iwent back this spring to try and was very close (1 hang) it is all I can think about so I had 2 add it to this list.
Chris is a great guy isn't he? known him since I was 17 or so ... totally down to earth dude, who happens to crank.


moonshine505


Dec 1, 2005, 8:31 PM
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Ahhh, ok. The drilled pockets on BTBS certainly could have been filled in, I honestly don't know. I'll add another Rifle favorite, Richchet, to the list and second The Gift as a contender for classic status. As for Flex Luthor, the exfoliating choss band at the bottom of the Fortress is pretty ugly, but the upper, stable areas, definately look amazing.


laxclimber4


Dec 1, 2005, 9:59 PM
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whiskey a go go, i will vouch for that route. What a piece of rock. The route just looks so damn proud.

anyways here are some others

Ro Shambo- red river gorge
sweet pain- red rocks
Prince of Darkness- red rocks
scarface- smithrocks


hendicrimpin


Dec 1, 2005, 11:05 PM
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Silverback - Concave, Little River Canyon, AL
Ethnic Cleansing - Foster Falls, TN
Wristlets - Foster Falls, TN
Tomb Suba(don't know if spelling is right) - Little River, AL
First 39 feet of Serenity Crack in Yose ;) (Hey, its got a bolt!)

So many more in the Southeast.....sport climber heaven

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