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lockie
Dec 22, 2005, 9:45 PM
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Registered: May 11, 2004
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Four weeks ago today, I injured my right ring finger while pulling on a two-finger pocket. I felt pain through my fingers down to my elbow, but I could hold on till I got a hold with my left so I could clip and lower. Shortly after, pain localized to area between knuckle and next joint, and a specific spot in my mid forearm. No swelling and I move my fingers, so I knew it wasn't TOO bad.
Taped my fingers together for a week and a half. Didn't get much better over that time, but I caught my finger just a little bit getting dressed and felt intense pain, so I don't regret protecting it with the tape for the preceding 9 days. Still, partly persuaded by the argument made on another thread that taping reduces bloodflow, I stopped taping then. Finger slowly got better.
Went to a doctor (for a physio referral) and to a physio last week. Doctor had never heard of pulleys, and told me finger injuries effect bones, ligments and/or tendons. There wasn't any joint pain, and it obviously wasn't a bone thing, so it sounded like a tendon. I didn't research pulleys enough to know what I was talking about, so I dropped that issue. Got a referral to a physio for tendonitis.
Physio then did a bit of ultrasound treatment (I've heard it's beneficial, my physio said it was beneficial, and I wasn't paying, so why no) and got me to make various fists and do some gentle stretching. So it seems the desire to flex and test one's injury may, for once, be the right instinct.
I'm feeling better already.
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trenchdigger
Dec 22, 2005, 10:06 PM
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Registered: Mar 9, 2003
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In reply to: Went to a doctor (for a physio referral) and to a physio last week. Doctor had never heard of pulleys...
Interesting. What kind of doc? Orthopedist or just a GP? As far as I know, "pulley" is a common name for the ligaments that guide the flexor tendons. They're usually referred to with a letter/number combination to refer to a specific one... ie. "A2 pulley" or "C3 pulley". The "A" stands for Annular and "C" for Cruciate indicating the type of pulley and the number indicates it's location in the finger, starting with the the #1 pulley being closest to the hand.
In reply to: ... and told me finger injuries effect bones, ligments and/or tendons. |
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doktor_g
Dec 22, 2005, 10:39 PM
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Registered: Oct 14, 2003
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Howdy,
Below is a post I did for a smilar injury. Tendonitis sounds more like what you have as an A2 rupture would unlikely have radiating forearm pain. Nevertheless you might be interested in the threads listed below. The first is a link to another forum topic. The second is a scientific journal available online. Finally is my original post for diagnosis and current suggested treatment for A2 rupture in climbers.
Gulluck...
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http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=66113
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http://www.physsportsmed.com/issues/1997/05may/jebson.htm
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My two cents worth,
The A2 pulley is one of the most common injuries in intermediate to upper echelon climbers. The most common digits are the ring and middle fingers. I would reccomend seeing a doc but both Dr. Rock and Organic gave good advice. The most obvious phyisical signs are tenderness on palpation (pressing) along the inside proximal phalanges of the affected finger, mild swelling, and most commonly "bowstringing" - a physical defect seen as the flexor tendon buldges out like the string of a bow when pinching the affected finger against the thumb.
Although there have been reports of surgical repairs by a doctor in France, it is generally NOT reccomended. There are a few reasons, mainly that the outcome IS NO DIFFERNT THAN NON-OPERATIVE MANAGEMENT and that there are numerous risks of surgical complications. Ibuprofen is a good choice for treatment. It decreases tissue inflammation and thereby extension of damage. Taping is highly reccomended in the lay press, although no scientific data exists that I know of.
MY ADVICE: would be to take ibuprofen regularly and tape snuggly. When taping, attempt to reproduce the anatomy of the pullies. start with a wrap proximally, then cross over the joint to the middle section on the inside of the finger, wrap around once and then cross back to the proximal phalanges. Complete with one more wrap. No more than about 10 inches of tape will be required. Don't cut off circulation, that will set up for reinjury. Now, go see a doc. You may need an imaging study (MRI XRay etc) not to confirm A2 rupture, but to rule out something worse than an A2 rupture or something that happened WITH the rupture (avulsed bone or something like that).
Hope that helps,
Grover Shipman
Keep in touch to tell me about the course
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weschrist
Dec 22, 2005, 11:37 PM
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Registered: Aug 13, 2004
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I'm going through the same thing... been 6 weeks now, still hurts.
From what I gathered it is good to protect it (tape) if you might stress it. But everyday light movement and range of motion movements help a lot... which I assume is why you felt better after the physio.
I would also alternate hot and cold baths on your hand or even entire arm upto your elbow. End with cold
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