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top ten climbs for the visitor to New River Gorge
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tslater


Dec 22, 2005, 6:14 AM
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top ten climbs for the visitor to New River Gorge  ()
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It is such a huge place, can you recommend a couple walls or top ten routes not to miss up to 5.10? That'd be sweet. I'm from California and have never been to the NRG before. Thanks.


gqsmooth


Dec 22, 2005, 11:04 PM
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Re: top ten climbs for the visitor to New River Gorge [In reply to]
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he might not online right now but hit up ajibukin (sp?) i think hes one of the nrg affeciandos that i've climbed with. um i've been there but i don't sport alot of the people i go to the gorge with are all about bubba city, another i think is the tattoo wall. endless wall is good as well but then again its all hearsay. don't forget to hit up pies and pints for dinner.


Partner mr8615


Dec 22, 2005, 11:11 PM
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You lookin for sport or trad? Not many sport climbs under 5.10, tons of trad lines though. You can't really go wrong wherever you go. Unfortunately this time of year is pretty damn cold for the gorge. I'd recommend stopping by Waterstone outdoors in Fayetteville and talkin to them. Tell them what you wanna do and they'll take the weather into account and steer you in the right direction. You can also pick up a guide book there and donate $$ to NRAC for those bolts you'll probably be clippin. Rumor has it that J_ung is workin on development over at Whipporwil just north at Summersville Lake, hit him up, I've heard there are some sweet winter lines over there!

Mark


bajcsi


Dec 28, 2005, 5:32 PM
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If you want sport under 5.10 you can always hit Tattoo wall. The only guide book that has good info on it is the guidebook to Bubba City which can be found at "http://trainingforclimbing.com/BubbaCity/pages/guidebooks.htm". There is alot of 5.7 - 5.9 bolted there such as Geisha Girl. You can also download the topo for Tattoo wall (which has been developed "fairly recently") at that site.

Endless Wall is a great place, the amount of climbing there is well... endless. For easy trad, try Fantasy (5.8ish). It's a fun crack...

Bajcsi


Partner kasharp


Dec 28, 2005, 5:54 PM
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Bridge Buttress. EASY approach, tons of routes, lots of fun. (mostly all trad)
When are you headed out there?


bajcsi


Dec 28, 2005, 6:03 PM
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The problem with Bridge Butress is usually PEOPLE. Tons of them...


Partner kasharp


Dec 28, 2005, 6:05 PM
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The problem with Bridge Butress is usually PEOPLE. Tons of them...

depends on the time of year, and the day of the week.


bajcsi


Dec 28, 2005, 6:27 PM
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Heh, yea, I guess I have to give you that one. I've climbed there quite a bit over the last 6 years. I actually like the bridge buttress quite a bit, I guess I am just a little jaded is all. So long as I don't get stuck on Zag (I've always hated that route, who knows why?) I'm happy. haha

Bajcsi


thorne
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Dec 28, 2005, 6:31 PM
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This should help.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/....php?p=374112#374112

Are you looking for sport or trad?

When are you planning on being there?


Partner kasharp


Dec 28, 2005, 6:51 PM
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Heh, yea, I guess I have to give you that one. I've climbed there quite a bit over the last 6 years. I actually like the bridge buttress quite a bit, I guess I am just a little jaded is all. So long as I don't get stuck on Zag (I've always hated that route, who knows why?) I'm happy. haha

Bajcsi


Yea... Zag is tricky, still fun though. I love bridge... I can't wait till it's warm enough to go back, I've been missing the gorge :cry:


hosebeats


Dec 28, 2005, 6:55 PM
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Sport- Rico Suave Arette 5.10a at Kaymoore
Flight of the Gumby 5.9 at Kaymoore
Lots of stuff at Bubba City. St. Paulies Girl 5.10c is one of the best.
Some stuff at Summersville Lake. Orange Oswald wall very popular and has some decent climbs.


tslater


Dec 29, 2005, 3:04 AM
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OK, thanks. So Bridge Buttress, Endless Wall, Bubba City (cool name), and Kaymore. I always see pictures of the place (cool holes, rad colored sandstone) and it is so different than the endless Yosemite gray granite (not that I'm complaining, just like to try something different). So, is summer too hot? I usually have summer off.


Partner kasharp


Dec 29, 2005, 3:13 AM
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depends on how "hot" you can put up with... I climbed at the gorge all this summer, and it wasn't too bad, but there were some pretty hot days where chalking up was useless.
try for earlier in the summer, rather than later. july/august tends to be a bit hotter than may/june.


deschamps1000


Dec 29, 2005, 4:12 AM
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I used to live near the new and have been there a good amount.

I HIGHLY RECOMEND that you spend a full day at the Junkyard wall if you want to climb cracks. It is one of my favorite crack crags ever. A lot of great cracks with lots of character and bomber gear. All right next to each other. After having been to the New many times, I would recommend the Junkyard more highly than any other area there. Seriously, trust me.


johnathon78


Dec 29, 2005, 5:23 AM
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Bubba City would be your best bet as far as easy to mid sport goes. Beer wall and tattoo wall are your best bet. Its has simple access and all the routes are within a very short distance from each other. At Tattoo wall, Try :

Butterfly Flake, 5.7 sport.
Daisy cutter, 5.7 sport.
Geisha Girl, 5.8 sport, 11 clips, 110 ft!

At Beer wall try:

Immaculate Combustion, 5.10c, sport
St. Pauli Girl, 5.10c, sport
Golden Escalator, 5.11a, sport. Careful on this one, I took a 35' whipper! Its runout!

This website also helps:

http://trainingforclimbing.com/BubbaCity/pages/gallery.htm
I suggest buying the bubba city guide, its very extensive and well worth it.


jeremy11


Dec 29, 2005, 6:35 AM
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here are some highly ... umm ... recommended routes I've done at the NRG in my quest to lead (mostly rope solo) every route 5.6 and under ...

bubba city:
just plain dirty 5.4
bush battle 5.5
nasty body o'dour 5.7 "follow the offensive offwidth...(Thompson 153)
helmeted warrior of love 5.7+ runout start with some vertical bushwacking

endless wall
alcan highway 5.6R but really more like an X ... could be classic with a bolt

beauty mountain
throw down those childish toys 5.7 I bet I'm the only one dumb enough to
lead this twice...

sunshine wall... half an hour bushwack in...
flaming .... material (unnamed in Cater) 5.9 sport thru grunge and thick
spider webs

and a few REAL favorites...
labrador retriever 5.8 cat wall (between bubba and junkyard - well worth
the hike!)

chockstone 5.9 bridge buttress

the distortionist 5.6 junkyard ("hiked" it tons of times, my record is 3 min 27 sec car to car!!)
:D


climbappalachia


Dec 29, 2005, 8:58 AM
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Summersville Lake is a great destination if you're visiting during the warmer months. Located about 15 min. north of the Gorge, SL probably has the largest concentration of moderate sport routes in the New (however I have not been to Tattoo Wall).

Also the Lake provides a perfect Swimming Hole and/or Landing Pool for some deep water soloing. Check out this thread for info and pics.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/....php?p=276023#276023

Summer is the best time for DWS because the lake is at its deepest.
Almost half the lake disappears after they drain in the fall.

So don't let the summer temps discourage you.
Enjoy.

Here's a few routes not to be missed
Kaymoor- Sport
Rico Suave - best 5.10a in the New
- STAYS DRY in a downpour!!!
Flight of the Gumby - best 5.9

Summersville - Sport
Orange Oswald - 5.10
Hippie Dreams - 5.7

Bridge Buttress - trad
High times 5.10
-STAYS DRY!!!
Zig 5.9
Zag 5.8

Junkyard
New Yosemite 5.9
Four Sheets to the Wind 5.9


Partner kasharp


Dec 29, 2005, 3:41 PM
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In reply to:
and a few REAL favorites...
labrador retriever 5.8 cat wall (between bubba and junkyard - well worth
the hike!)

yuck yuck, double yuck. i ventured out to this area once and would never go back. not worth the hike in my opinion, the 5.8 is the really the only climb in the area, stick to areas that are a bit more easily accessed. unless you like spiders that are as big as your face.

In reply to:

Bridge Buttress - trad
High times 5.10
-STAYS DRY!!!

and I have seen this one wet, after it's rained a few days, but i'm sure if you go there when it starts raining, it will still be dry.


thorne
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Dec 29, 2005, 4:13 PM
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In reply to:

Bridge Buttress - trad
High times 5.10
-STAYS DRY!!!

and I have seen this one wet, after it's rained a few days, but i'm sure if you go there when it starts raining, it will still be dry.

I've climbed High Times after it had rained for a few days and I've climbed it during a downpour.

For good trad under 5.10 I'd recommend

Bridge Area
-Zag 5.8
-Chockstone Crack 5.9
-Where Real Men Dare 5.8
-Hoppenferle Special 5.7

Junkyard
-Four sheets to the wind 5.9 ***
-New River Gunks 5.7

Beauty Mountain
- Super Crack 5.9 ***
- Happy Hands 5.8+

Endless Wall
- The Prowess 5.8+ ***
- Premarital Bliss 5.9 **
- Riding The Crest of a Wave 5.9 ***
- Fantasy 5.8 ***
- Grafenberg Crack 5.9-
- Two Step Arete 5.8*

One major plus of leading Endless Wall routes is your belay is frequently sitting on the lip of the Gorge.


Partner climboard


Dec 29, 2005, 5:51 PM
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In addition I'd recommend Fern Buttress-

Anal Clenching Adventures 10a
Bisect 10c
Crescenta 10a
Ritz Cracker 9
Springboard 10b
Triple Treat 10a


thorne
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Dec 29, 2005, 5:56 PM
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In addition I'd recommend Fern Buttress-

Anal Clenching Adventures 10a
Bisect 10b
Crescenta 10a
Ritz Cracker 9
Springboard 10b
Triple Treat 10b

If you're in this area, I'd recommend Two Tone Arete (10a sport).


noell


Jan 22, 2006, 1:12 PM
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OK, thanks. So Bridge Buttress, Endless Wall, Bubba City (cool name), and Kaymore. I always see pictures of the place (cool holes, rad colored sandstone) and it is so different than the endless Yosemite gray granite (not that I'm complaining, just like to try something different). So, is summer too hot? I usually have summer off.

You mention Yosemite is a crag you normally frequent, so you must live nearby-ish, which means you do not regularly experience east coast summers. Is the NRG too hot in the summer? Well, I'd say temp wise it may be about the same as places out west, ranging from 85 to 95 degrees during the day, but only cooling off to maybe 70's at night, if that sometimes. Here's the catch with the NRG in the summer that can make the whole experience really awful - HUMIDITY. If it's 85 and 100% humidity, you won't be climbing at your peak level for sure, and it won't cool off and sleeping will be rough.

Now, plenty of people climb there all summer, bunch of my friends lived there for the summer and I was there August- September. But it was rough.

Just thought I'd mention it. Fall is better if you can swing it.

:roll:


boss


Jan 22, 2006, 2:00 PM
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Here are a few of my favorites:

Summersville:
Orange Oswald 5.10 (Just about everything is good on O.O. wall)
Satisfaction Guaranteed 5.11c (I know you said 5.10, but this is a sweet route to try)

Beauty Mtn:
East Meets West 5.9
Journey to the Center of the Brain 5.7
Supercrack 5.9

Endless:
Fantasy 5.8 (Direct is 5.10b I believe)
Black and Tan 5.10?
Premarital Bliss 5.9

Kaymore and Butcher's Branch:
Tons of moderate sport here. Good on hot days as it is north facing and tends to stay cooler.

Bridge:
Zag 5.7
Easily Flakey 5.7R
Jaws 5.9?
Underfling 5.10b

Tattoo Wall:
Tons of easy sport. Good for a rest type day. Also, some fun harder climbs as well.

Boss


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