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overlord
Dec 31, 2005, 2:51 PM
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In reply to: I have a related question. I'm new to this sport climbing. Why do they make the handles on the bolts so small? You can only get one finger around them. Why aren't they big enough to grab with your whole hand? |
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hillbillywannabe
Dec 31, 2005, 3:45 PM
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i smell a :troll: also
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roshiaitareya
Dec 31, 2005, 10:27 PM
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This is funny. Who cares if he can officially mark off on his tic list whether or not he did the climb? It shouldn't be about that it should be about him going out there and climbing, and having fun with it. If it were me, then I'd count it as a send of the first pitch then go back and do it again because I'd want to see what the top half was like, not because I wanted to make my climbing resume more impressive.
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hosh
Dec 31, 2005, 10:45 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: THIS is why sport climbing sucks. 8^) What does this thread have to do with sport climbing? It could have been a trad lead with anchors put in at the first belay. I showed my ignorance by using the word "shunts" when instead I should have used "pro" because, thinking about it, shunts at a pitch belay wouldn't seem right. You think sport climbing sucks just because he didn't clip into one of the draws at the belay? I think you suck for giving such a rediculous response.
"what does this thread have to do with sport climbing"? are you serious? Correct me if I'm wrong, but he wa on a sport climb, right? Ergo, this thread is about a "sport climb"... Yeah, it could have been a trad climb, but it WASN'T.
hosh.
(for the record, I'm not an enemy of sport climbing, that comment just didn't seem very well thought through...)
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dangle
Jan 1, 2006, 2:58 AM
Post #31 of 51
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In reply to: I have a related question. I'm new to this sport climbing. Why do they make the handles on the bolts so small? You can only get one finger around them. Why aren't they big enough to grab with your whole hand?
The weeny tree huggers complained so now people only leave the brackets on the rock and you have to buy these detachable clip on handle deals in order to use the pullup brackets.
What a hassle!
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scottd
Jan 1, 2006, 4:09 PM
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I don't give a crap about your style or ethics choices. (that's your own problem) :twisted:
But why does everyone insist on calling them "shunts" jeez...
In reply to: shunt Pronunciation Key (shnt) n. 1.The act or process of turning aside or moving to an alternate course. 2.A railroad switch. 3.Electricity. A low-resistance connection between two points in an electric circuit that forms an alternative path for a portion of the current. Also called bypass. 4.Medicine. A passage between two natural body channels, such as blood vessels, especially one created surgically to divert or permit flow from one pathway or region to another; a bypass.
They are called "shuts". Which is short for cold-shuts. They are manufactured in an open position and then folded over cold, (ie. w/ no heat) and sometimes welded shut. BTW, they are very unreliable when it comes to how many pounds they hold until failure. They definately should not be used on new routes because now we have all these fancy new hangers for cheap. We have a couple jackasses here in Tucson that still use them on new routes. Hopefully this will change at some point, but......
I don't mean to insult anyone, so please don't take it that way.
Sorry for the thread hijack, but it seemed like this was turning into the status quo "flame fest" anyway :roll:
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dangle
Jan 1, 2006, 4:47 PM
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I was just having some fun with a lame thread but scottd has demonstrated one of my climbing pet peaves.
People that use the words style and ethics interchangably!
Style does not carry a bearing on how others experience climbing but ethics CAN. Therefore it is not neccesarily "your problem".
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mr_woo
Jan 1, 2006, 5:28 PM
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haha i thought climbing was about peace and love not bitching about technicalities. im sure the beanie wearing boulderers never have this problem. solution= you and your buddy tape up your hands and ingage in 7 rounds of 30's style boxing. if he kicks your ass he gets the route. problem solved.
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scottd
Jan 1, 2006, 5:32 PM
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Ron,
I didn't want to get involved in his style decisions, so I simply stated that I wasn't interested. I couldn't care less if he calls it a redpoint/ whatever...
I've re-read my post and don't see where or how I used style and ethics interchangeably. I definately know the difference between the 2, but am confused where I committed the faux-pas....
In reply to: I don't give a crap about your style or ethics choices. (that's your own problem)
I really don't want to argue about this, so please don't take it that way.
Ron, I really respect what you are doing for the climbing community regarding routes and thoughtful pin placement and removal so that future ascents can use nuts and other less damaging techniques. And because I respect you I feel bad that you are peeved by a statement of mine....
Later,
Scott Drawz
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mowz
Jan 2, 2006, 7:17 PM
Post #36 of 51
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: THIS is why sport climbing sucks. 8^) What does this thread have to do with sport climbing? It could have been a trad lead with anchors put in at the first belay. I showed my ignorance by using the word "shunts" when instead I should have used "pro" because, thinking about it, shunts at a pitch belay wouldn't seem right. You think sport climbing sucks just because he didn't clip into one of the draws at the belay? I think you suck for giving such a rediculous response. "what does this thread have to do with sport climbing"? are you serious? Correct me if I'm wrong, but he wa on a sport climb, right? Ergo, this thread is about a "sport climb"... Yeah, it could have been a trad climb, but it WASN'T. hosh. (for the record, I'm not an enemy of sport climbing, that comment just didn't seem very well thought through...)
For those who just read the words and don't process the real issue/question/topic being brought up, it may seem that the thread is about sport climbing. To those who think about what they read, this thread is about some of the ethics and standards in climbing. If you took the sport climb out of the OP's post, the subject of the thread would still not change. That's why I said this thread has nothing to do with sport climbing whatsoever. So to answer your ?, yes, I'm serious.
WTF does "hosh" mean anyway?
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dangle
Jan 2, 2006, 8:34 PM
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Once again, I am surfing on molasses here. If you want me to read something SEND A PM.
Once again, SEND A PM!
In reply to: Ron, I didn't want to get involved in his style decisions, so I simply stated that I wasn't interested. I couldn't care less if he calls it a redpoint/ whatever... I've re-read my post and don't see where or how I used style and ethics interchangeably. I definately know the difference between the 2, but am confused where I committed the faux-pas.... In reply to: I don't give a crap about your style or ethics choices. (that's your own problem) In the above, I used "or" that says to me that they are not the same thing. I really don't want to argue about this, so please don't take it that way. Ron, I really respect what you are doing for the climbing community regarding routes and thoughtful pin placement and removal so that future ascents can use nuts and other less damaging techniques. And because I respect you I feel bad that you are peeved by a statement of mine.... Later, Scott Drawz
First Scott thank you for your kind words. It often seems that I'll get more kind words after I'm dead than while I'm alive to hear them.
No big faux pas but ethics choices are NOT necessarily just your own problem.
I believe that this is an important distinction that puts ethical decisions in a higher priority than style decisions.
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scottd
Jan 2, 2006, 9:02 PM
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In reply to: First Scott thank you for your kind words. It often seems that I'll get more kind words after I'm dead than while I'm alive to hear them.
I have to agree with you there, the climbing community seems to take along time to come around on some ideas.
In reply to: No big faux pas but ethics choices are NOT necessarily just your own problem. I believe that this is an important distinction that puts ethical decisions in a higher priority than style decisions.
Agreed, ethics choices definately affect all of us.
I was climbing one of our classic routes here on Mt. Lemmon on Friday, and I found a new bolt 3 feet from the original route and 6 inches from a crack which will accept pro. Really pissed me off, and on top of it, the bolt was a buttonhead....Gonna have to pull it/epoxy the hole...I know who did it too. He's had quite a few of his bolts removed that he's seen fit to add to existing routes.
Once again, sorry for the thread hijack.
:wink: :wink:
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cliffwoman
Jan 2, 2006, 9:41 PM
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agreed
climbing is not about the grade, if it was a fun challenging climb, then cool
just enjoy the experience
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justus
Jan 2, 2006, 9:51 PM
Post #40 of 51
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SO:
is standing on a bolt OK?
Justus
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mr_woo
Jan 3, 2006, 1:42 AM
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In reply to: is standing on a bolt OK?
Of course its not "OK" but exceptions to the rules have to be made for extenuating circumstances. if i had a BD 5. cam flying at my face im pretty sure i couldn't care less if he stood on a bolt, as long as i dont get belted. it pretty much comes down to how big of a person you are. do you really care if he gets the climb? (i dont) and is your friend worth more than a stupid (seriously stupid) argument over the technicalities of climbing?
cheers, happy decision making
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dangle
Jan 3, 2006, 2:33 AM
Post #42 of 51
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Scott,
this thread was in NEED of a good hijacking. It was begging for it.
If you even once went wrong then maybe just perhaps the apology was foolish.
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grover
Jan 3, 2006, 2:45 AM
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In reply to: and clipped his first shut at the top of a run out 11c. There was a second pitch to this sport climb
Run out, sport climb, in the same paragraph?
What is this world coming to?
To answer yer silly little troll, YES. Standing on bolts count, so does pickin yer nose at the belay.
Oh and yer buddy should know better that belayers catch all falling booty.
8^)
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climberboy193838
Jan 3, 2006, 2:55 AM
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U r being stupid, ur friend sent the first pitch give him credit for that. He also did u a second favor, that gear hurts like heck if it hits u on the head, he saved u a headache.
Now make friends and uhhhhh... :drama:.
As a wise man once said..."Cry me a river, Build a bridge, and get over it."
And to answer the topic "Standing on a bolt OK?" the answer is hell no. Maybe if ur a super beginner in a gym we could forgive u for being stupid but no. Never stand on a bolt.
Thanks for asking a stupid question. NOT.
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ajkclay
Jan 3, 2006, 6:16 AM
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On the original troll, I'm not an aider, so correct me if I am wrong, but wouldn't standing on a bolt just be using aid?
If so, that would be ok as long as you recorded the ascent as such. (although these two doofuses [doofi?] in the OP would argue about it anyway, and end up not speaking)
Cheers
Adam
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quiteatingmysteak
Jan 3, 2006, 6:24 AM
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In reply to: Tell your friend if he's going to be stupid and dive off a route just to catch a lousy piece of gear, he doesn't deserve to add that route to his tic list, actually, tell him he shouldn't even be called a climber. End the friendship immediately, you don't want to be climbing with anyone like that.
Sylvester Stalone called. He wants to do a movie. Plz bring Red Bull, No Fear stickers and any/all barbed wire tattoos.
As long as people dont harm the rock, environment or endanger/affect other peoples experiences you should be able to do what you want. If I walk by a climb and see someone in a clown suit aiding with a seltzer bottle and hanging on his Fallac - shaped tie [girth hitched to the fixed gear, of course] I'm not about to go high school football attitude on him. Cooky? yes. But fuck, so are climbers.
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roshiaitareya
Jan 3, 2006, 7:47 AM
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Who keeps eating your steak?
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quiteatingmysteak
Jan 3, 2006, 11:03 AM
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Hard to say, really.
but I'm thinking its Abe Vigoda.
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hosh
Jan 6, 2006, 1:47 AM
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In reply to: For those who just read the words and don't process the real issue/question/topic being brought up, it may seem that the thread is about sport climbing. To those who think about what they read, this thread is about some of the ethics and standards in climbing. If you took the sport climb out of the OP's post, the subject of the thread would still not change. That's why I said this thread has nothing to do with sport climbing whatsoever. So to answer your ?, yes, I'm serious. WTF does "hosh" mean anyway?
don't know... what's "mowz" mean?
and if the guy was on a trad climb (and by trad, I mean a pure trad climb with NO bolts or anchors), this would have been a non-issue. I'm not trying to be a jerk, but honestly, who cares?
hosh.
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mowz
Jan 6, 2006, 4:54 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: For those who just read the words and don't process the real issue/question/topic being brought up, it may seem that the thread is about sport climbing. To those who think about what they read, this thread is about some of the ethics and standards in climbing. If you took the sport climb out of the OP's post, the subject of the thread would still not change. That's why I said this thread has nothing to do with sport climbing whatsoever. So to answer your ?, yes, I'm serious. WTF does "hosh" mean anyway? don't know... what's "mowz" mean? and if the guy was on a trad climb (and by trad, I mean a pure trad climb with NO bolts or anchors), this would have been a non-issue. I'm not trying to be a jerk, but honestly, who cares? hosh.
I don't care about what the OP's partner did, but I do care about ethics and when ethics start to become compromised in even the slightest way, a slippery slope can develop.
MOWZ is a character from a game. Google it.
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