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euroford
Jan 6, 2006, 3:20 PM
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A while back, in another attempt to find ways to make climbing in Wisconsin a little more interesting my partner and i decided what we needed to do was tack a pitch of aid climbing onto the end of our trad cragging day.
so, the theory is thus; after climbing trad lines all day, when the sun went down the big rack and cheater gear comes out. if necessary, so do the parkas; rain or shine, by hook or crook, one more pitch gets done after the sun goes down.
all in all, it went pretty damn well, the climbing was fun, and it felt cool heading up while all of the other punters had already packed up their toprope rigs and called it a day. it also thunder stormed pretty good for awhile. for an hour and a half, i was zoned in on my lead, aiding up into the storm. at that point in time i could have been anywhere, for awhile i totally forgot i was dangling off the side of an 90' tall quartzite escarpment in Wisconsin, it was just the headlong push to the top of the pitch and my whole world was encompassed within the 8" diameter soft glow of my headlamp.
totally fuking inadequate. if i had been more than 100' off the ground and more than a 10 minute brisk hike from the car i would have been sceeeeeroooooooood. and by 'I' i actually mean 'we' because the sad little BD Moonlight is all we had, i had to tagline it down to Steve so he could clean the pitch, and then he had to follow me on the hike out.
it was a MIRACLE that we didn't loose any gear or somehow fuk something else up. in fact for a bit i was damn sure that we had forgotten the WC #5 at the base.
after this little escapade it really kind of dawned on me that for whatever reason the most I've ever really had to ask of a headlamp was to make coffee, grab another beer, go take a leak or maybe read while kicking back in the tent. we've been smart and skilled (okay, umm, lucky! hahaha) enough that we've never gotten stuck ascending or descending in the dark, and up until recently we'd never on purpose planned to climb in the dark.
okay, I'll take that back, we have planned to climb in the dark, but just hadn't actually done it.
so, to make a long story just a little bit longer, I'll get to my topic of discussion. I've now seen the (har har har!!) light and am quite likely to repeat this little episode, not only in my neck of the woods, but in better endowed regions as well. but the crappy little BD Moonlight is being demoted to car camping duty and shall no longer have a privileged place in the climbing pack.
for this special spot, i ask your advice great people of rc.com. i want to go buy the best god damned headlamp money can buy and i want you to help me. which ones have you liked, what have you put them through, and why do they deserve to be your partners in crime?
edit: spellcheck rules.
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dynamo_
Jan 6, 2006, 3:40 PM
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Registered: Apr 13, 2005
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These are two that I have used and enjoyed (amongst others):
Princeton Tec Aurora:
PROS:
LED, lightweight, simple operation, plenty bright for nightime hiking, and, I would suppose, climbing.
CONS:
Could be brighter
Princeton Tec EOS:
PROS: LED, lightweight, simple operation, really bright, regulated output.
CONS:
Heavier
Check out candlepowerforums.com for all you could ever want to know about lights.
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trenchdigger
Jan 6, 2006, 3:44 PM
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The Petzl Myo XP is the headlamp. if you want something smaller/lighter, but still need power, battery life, and the reliability of an LED, get the Tikka XP. It's nearly as bright and a lot lighter/smaller. Anything else is a compromise.
Oh, and REI has the Myo XP on sale right now. Myo XP at REI.com
Edited to add that I've used most of the headlamps available at REI and have owned multiple models by BD, Petzl and Princeton Tec. I also own the EOS mentioned above. No diffuser makes it suck for up-close tasks, and it't a good deal bigger, heavier, and less bright than the Tikka XP. It is cheaper though, and more wateproof.
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euroford
Jan 6, 2006, 3:45 PM
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the picure shown on your rei link doesn't show a topstrap on the myo xp. how does it stay situated on a helmet?
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trenchdigger
Jan 6, 2006, 3:49 PM
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In reply to: the picure shown on your rei link doesn't show a topstrap on the myo xp. how does it stay situated on a helmet?
The Myo XP comes with an optional (meaning you can install it if you want) top strap in the packaging. The Tikka XP does not.
With a helmet with clips (at least on my BD half dome) the top strap is not really necessary, however I find it more comfortable with the top strap when I'm not wearing a helmet so I leave it on.
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euroford
Jan 6, 2006, 3:57 PM
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thanks for the info. i wear the petzl ecrin roc, the upward tension of the topstrap goes a long ways towards keeping the headlamp pinned into the clips and nicely stable.
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landgolier
Jan 6, 2006, 4:02 PM
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Aiding at D-Lake? I've been having the same idea lately, I'm in chicago as well. PM if you ever need a backup partner.
On the headlamp, everybody here loves various incarnations of the petzl tikka. The tikka is good for really lighting up everything within about 10 feet, which is optimal for climbing/walkoff, at least where route finding isn't a problem. If you need to shoot a longer beam, check into one of the BD's that has both LED's and a xenon. They're nice, the only PITA is they only have one switch that toggles Off-LED-Off-Xenon, so switching it on and off is annoying, but to just turn it on and run, and occasionally go to the longer beam, it's pretty good. Lasts forever on LED's, too, I ran the same batteries for over a year of weekend trips/plumbing repair. They make 3 different brightnesses of xenon bulbs, get the brightest. It eats more AA's but the low power one is crap (no brighter than the LED I find), and when you need to see farther, you want to be able to see FAR, not kind a little farther. Since you only use it in short bursts, battery life is no biggie.
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aikibujin
Jan 6, 2006, 4:07 PM
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If you didn't like your BD Moonlight for climbing, then I wouldn't recommend any other headlamps with the regular LEDs, that include the PT Aurora, Petzl Tikka and Zipka, etc.
For pure light output, LEDs (even the 3-watt) are still behind the brightest xenon halogen bulbs. But there are benefits to LEDs that make them an attractive choice. 1. they don't break; 2. they use less battery.
Look for a headlamp with an 1-watt or 3-watt LED. Examples are Petzl Pikka XP, Myo XP; Princeton Tec EOS, Apex; Black Diamond Zenix, Spot. Personally I like Princeton Tec headlamps. PT is not a climbing gear company, so a lot of climbers tend to go for a brand they know and trust. But Princeton Tec is in the business of making flashlights and headlamps for a long time, I think their headlamps are generally more reliable and better made than Petzl and BD headlamps. My personal favorite right now is the PT Apex. More bulky than the Myo XP, but it can stay in the 3-watt mode for as long as you want, instead of the 20 sec limit on the Myo XP.
Go play with headlamps at a REI and see which one you like.
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ccard257
Jan 6, 2006, 4:28 PM
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I have a BD Zenix IQ and it it a freaking spotlight. i highly recommend it
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euroford
Jan 6, 2006, 4:40 PM
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don't get me wrong, the bd moonlight is a good headlamp, as long as you look at it in the context for what it is. but I've found that it doesn't produce a real 'beam' of light. more like a diffuse glow, and it doesn't have good range. i think in demoting it back to a camping role I'm really going to be using it for what its really meant for.
but while on the sharp end, i really had to get in my seconds steps and look straight ahead carefully at each placement. i couldn't really read the route out ahead of me, to make good time you need to think 2-4 placements ahead. i should be able to lead this pitch in 20-35 minutes. instead i think it took well over an hour. i make it a habit not to look at my rack, i know it well enough that i really don't have to, but i was even having a hard time seeing what hanging on my chest harness!!
granted the batteries weren't brand new, but they were still well within the range that i expect good lighting. the storm also had to effect visibility, it came in spurts, but at some points it was a serious downpour.
i think what I'm looking for is a lamp that can give me a really nice solid clear radius of light around me, at a distance of say 30' for an extended period of time, while it should also have modes that would really allow me punch a solid beam out for the rest of the pitch for more 'global' rout finding. i think so far I'm really digging the recommendation of the Petzl Myo XP. with the 'spot' and 'wide' lenses along with the 'burst' mode i might be a happy camper with that model.
as for aiding around devils lake:
there are definitely some really good aid routes out there to stay in practice and test your skills. in this particular instance i was aiding 'upper diagonal' which i definitely suggest as both a partner or solo aid route. but be sure to have a boatload of cams as the funky/flared crack takes very few stoppers. i usually have a full set of dmms, two sets of camalots 1-3, a set of aliens and this time a wc #5 that proved to be very useful in one spot. an even better aid route is 'cheetah'. for that you'll need nothing bigger than #1 camalot, plenty of stoppers, some hb offsets, and a bd talon for a couple of hook moves near the top. unless you can pull the 5.10 crux of the route, right off the ground, you'll need to (gasp) get on the smallest HB offset for your second move. fun fun fun :)
also be prepared for conversation. most of the topropers find the presence of all that gear pretty interesting.
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chanceboarder
Jan 6, 2006, 4:58 PM
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Registered: Oct 6, 2003
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i've got the BD vectra IQ and its ridiculously bright. i even picked up the search light bulb that is used in their top of the line solaris headlamp and its even brighter. that bulb eats up batteries in about 3 hours but when i don't need that its got 4 ridiculously bright LED's. both lights have 3 different brightness settings for different situations and to help save power. even on the med setting its about as bright at the tikka on high.
its not for the fast and light crow cuz it is on the heavy side with 4 AA batteries but when i need some power i absolutely love the thing.
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stonefoxgirl
Jan 6, 2006, 5:18 PM
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Registered: Jul 15, 2003
Posts: 595
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Petzl: Tika Plus
OR
Petzl: Myo
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maldaly
Jan 6, 2006, 5:19 PM
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trenchdigger has it right--the Petzl Myo XP and Tikka XP are the only 2 lights you need to look at unless you need a micro-sized light. The diffusers on both do a better job of spreading even light on close-up subjects than an array of LED's. Both throw a beam to die for and the Myo XPs beam could cut steel. I use the Myo XP for bike riding at night and I have to be downhill-fast to out ride the beam. Where the head strap passes around the back of the battery pack is a perfect place to clip a blinky red thing. One of these days bike riders and the bike shops will figure out that this setup works as well as those $300 NightRider things.
Mal
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mattyp
Jan 6, 2006, 5:22 PM
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I have the Petzl Taktikka. It is similar to the Tikka. The only difference is that it has a red lens that you can use or flip down to use the bright white light. I have used mine for 6 months of combat ops in Afghanistan and love it. It is light weight and very durable. All members of my team use it.
It also gets long battery life due to the three led's. Well, that is my two cents. Good luck.
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wmfork
Jan 6, 2006, 5:30 PM
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I have a Princeton Tec Apex. It's a 3w led headlamp that I personally think is much better than the Petzl Myo XP. It's regulated (fairly constant output until battery is pretty weak), much brighter than the Myo XP, and even brighter than the boosted mode of the Myo XP with not-so-fresh batteries. And from what I can tell, it may be better weather sealed than the Myo XP.
The main Luxeon led beam is fairly wide but still have good throw (I really like it as a road bike light) and the 4 low power led provides a wide flood.
Only thing, it's on the heavy side (mainly b/c it's 4aa).
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sspssp
Jan 6, 2006, 5:30 PM
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I have the Myo 5 and the Myo XP looks like an improved version.
I really like the 5 for when I am planning on climbing after dark. You can get a really bright beam, but easily turn it down (belaying for instance).
If you aren't already tuned into it, get lithium batteries. They are way lighter and last way longer. Given how much longer they last, they really aren't that much different in price to other batteries.
And finally, if you are planning on climbing after dark, take two headlamps (even if the second is a wimpy micro). I've learned this lesson very painfully, twice. The first time I was cursing my dumb luck. The second time I was cursing my own dumb ass.
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maldaly
Jan 6, 2006, 5:32 PM
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I swapped the back of a Tac-Tikka with a Zipka to make a Tac-Zip-Tikka that I carry as an emergency light and in my fishing vest. While it doesn't have much of a beam it's nice to be able to throw a bit of light without ruining your night vision. That the left over bits and throw them in the glove compartment of your car.
mal
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landgolier
Jan 6, 2006, 5:33 PM
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In reply to: as for aiding around devils lake: there are definitely some really good aid routes out there to stay in practice and test your skills. in this particular instance i was aiding 'upper diagonal' which i definitely suggest as both a partner or solo aid route. but be sure to have a boatload of cams as the funky/flared crack takes very few stoppers. i usually have a full set of dmms, two sets of camalots 1-3, a set of aliens and this time a wc #5 that proved to be very useful in one spot. an even better aid route is 'cheetah'. for that you'll need nothing bigger than #1 camalot, plenty of stoppers, some hb offsets, and a bd talon for a couple of hook moves near the top. unless you can pull the 5.10 crux of the route, right off the ground, you'll need to (gasp) get on the smallest HB offset for your second move. fun fun fun :) also be prepared for conversation. most of the topropers find the presence of all that gear pretty interesting.
Sounds like good times. Are there really that many hook moves to be had? I just moved here a couple months ago and haven't made it up there yet, so I don't know the rock at all. I think I've got the rack to make it up most of that stuff, but I should probably pick up at least a cliffhanger and a talon. I hadn't really thought of soloing, are there enough routes where you could get in a good anchor on the ground?
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euroford
Jan 6, 2006, 5:41 PM
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did i ever tell you guys that really, i just love you. where would i be without internet access to other gearheads?
LOL, if a petzl headlamp is good enough for combat operations, ill just have to asume they are tough enough for aid climbing. though i have to say, thus far gravity has proven to be a pretty rescourcefull and persistant enemy, and sometimes while standing on hooks it just does feel allot like somebody has a gun pointed at my head.....
a minor tangent since i'm in a typing mood at the moment:
this shit just never ends!! every time i think 'good god i have way to much gear' i think of 10 other things that seam not just as 'wants' but as gear essential for my sport. need a hedlamp, well i can't argue against requiring sight, need a belay jacket, its going to be damn cold in canada, the approach will be impossable without snowshoes... the route needs two sets of aliens... busted the stove again.... approach shoes are falling apart at the seams... lost another water bottle... portaledge.... haul bag... another rope.... sigh....
boulders might actually be onto something....
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hemp22
Jan 6, 2006, 5:42 PM
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I'll second/third the recommendations for the Petzl Myo XP. that has turned out to be my favorite after also using a Tikka and BD Zenix IQ.
The Zenix IQ is also great for brightness, but I think the Myo XP gets a better "white" light and makes for better depth perception.
But, I'd also recommend looking into the mini headlamp from mad rock. It's very light & small because it runs off a watch battery, so it makes good emergency headlamp to keep with you when cragging in case of any unexpected epics.
It only lasts for 70 hours, so it shouldn't be your only/primary multipurpose headlamp, but for only $8, it's a great emergency piece of gear.
http://www.madrockclimbing.com/...6200&category_id=257
(edit: PS - this is not meant to spawn off any discussion about quality of madrock gear - this is a headlamp, not a pair of shoes)
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chanceboarder
Jan 6, 2006, 5:46 PM
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In reply to: i'm looking for the stoutest, baddest, 'git r done' headlamp around, cost and weight be damned. |
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crotch
Jan 6, 2006, 5:59 PM
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In reply to: I swapped the back of a Tac-Tikka with a Zipka to make a Tac-Zip-Tikka
Nice tech tip Malcolm. Slick.
In reply to: And finally, if you are planning on climbing after dark, take two headlamps (even if the second is a wimpy micro). I've learned this lesson very painfully, twice. The first time I was cursing my dumb luck. The second time I was cursing my own dumb ass.
Why take two? Have you lost/broken one while climbing? A spare set of batteries has always been enough for me.
Hmmm. Come to think of it, I guess I do usually have two lights. I've got a photon on my car keys and it definately is bright enough to get me back to the car, but not enough for routefinding.
Crotch Tech Tip: Thread some 2mm accessory cord through the air holes of your helmet and tie into a loop with an overhand. Before dark, when you put your headlamp on your helmet, retie the cord around the strap of your headlamp to keep it from coming off accidentally. This gets rid of the need for a top strap to the headlamp.
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euroford
Jan 6, 2006, 6:01 PM
Post #25 of 57
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well, so it appears as though the myo xp may have some competition in the form of that bd vectra. anybody have some more light to shed on this?
jesus, i dunno about that solaris there though. sounds SWEEEEEET but i don't know if that kinda dough is justified compaired to the competion. rechargable batteries in a way are a point against it as far as i'm concerned.
"yeah hi, is this the backcountry ranger station for rocky mountain national park? good, thanks, i have a quick question, my topo of the diamond doesn't show any available AC power, we planned on doing the dun westbay route and i may need to plug in my headlamp around pitch 4. yeah sure, i'll hold......................................"
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