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namoclimber
Jan 9, 2006, 12:53 AM
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This is my question, with ice climbing excluded, has anyone actually needed to figure four to do a move because they couldn't just dyno through it?
and where are these problems or climbs?
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tattooed_climber
Jan 9, 2006, 1:06 AM
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wtf??????you mean like a yaniro or something???
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musicman1586
Jan 9, 2006, 1:20 AM
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Alot of people say that it's a fairly useless move to learn, and it's not used incredibly often, but I would prefer to have it in my bag of tricks if I ever needed it anyways. And yes, I have used figured fours before, as I have short arms in comparison to my body, so I've taken the time to work on learning it and it really can be a life saver.
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curt
Jan 9, 2006, 1:45 AM
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In reply to: This is my question, with ice climbing excluded, has anyone actually needed to figure four to do a move because they couldn't just dyno through it? and where are these problems or climbs?
I find the figure-four move is best used in scenarios that are opposite of the ideal situations for dynos.....
Crappy starting holds to a far-off decent hold = dyno.
Decent starting to holds to a far-off crappy hold = figure-four.
In other words, where the "target" hold is bad enough that you probably can't stick it with a dyno, use a figure-four.
Curt
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musicman1586
Jan 9, 2006, 2:25 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: This is my question, with ice climbing excluded, has anyone actually needed to figure four to do a move because they couldn't just dyno through it? and where are these problems or climbs? I find the figure-four move is best used in scenarios that are opposite of the ideal situations for dynos..... Crappy starting holds to a far-off decent hold = dyno. Decent starting to holds to a far-off crappy hold = figure-four. In other words, where the "target" hold is bad enough that you probably can't stick it with a dyno, use a figure-four. Curt
Exactly, a figure four is for reaching a high tiny crimp or pinch or something like that, if it's a big deep jug you can dyno it probably just as well, however there are situations where it's not the right set up to make a dyno as well, so yeah, just experiment.
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crackmd
Jan 9, 2006, 2:35 AM
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Can someone explain to this noob who has been climbing for 15 years exactly what a figure 4 is? No I won't do a search.
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doofus564
Jan 9, 2006, 2:35 AM
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What is a figure-four??
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yggdrasil71687
Jan 9, 2006, 2:35 AM
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Excluding gym climbing, I have only done 2 figure fours before. One was on a climb at sandrock and one was at little river canyon. unfortunatly i dont remember the name of either routes
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curt
Jan 9, 2006, 3:05 AM
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In reply to: Can someone explain to this noob who has been climbing for 15 years exactly what a figure 4 is? No I won't do a search.
Here's an example.
Suppose you are on a couple of big holds and need to reach past 48 inches of blank wall to get to a nice small crimp hold. Hang from the two good holds and bring your left foot up between your arms and pass your left leg up and over your right arm. Keep pulling up into this position until your left thigh is sitting on top of your right wrist. This is the figure-four position. Once in this position, your left hand is completely unloaded (because almost 100% of your weight is on your right hand) so it is free to reach up to the high crimper, which is now within reach--again because you are essentially sitting on top of your right hand.
A picture is worth 1000 words though, so if anyone has a good figure-four pic, please post it.
Curt
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arrowhead
Jan 9, 2006, 3:22 AM
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I've seen it more in use for bouldering routes than outdoor climbs.
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maculated
Jan 9, 2006, 3:27 AM
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Umm, my understanding was that it was more an ice climbing move, no? I've seen videos of people doing that.
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arrowhead
Jan 9, 2006, 3:30 AM
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Oh yea, and that too. Ice climbing & dry-tooling climbs.
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curt
Jan 9, 2006, 3:31 AM
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In reply to: Umm, my understanding was that it was more an ice climbing move, no? I've seen videos of people doing that.
Kristen,
It's used on rock too, in situations like those I described above.
Curt
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curt
Jan 9, 2006, 3:32 AM
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Thanks. That shows the figure-four perfectly.
Curt
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dannykelly
Jan 9, 2006, 4:00 AM
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never had to do the fig. 4 but yesterday i used a figure 9 on a crazy boulder problem and that was the only way i could could finish the problem. i tried the figure four but that didn't work either. (good move to learn. for those of you who don't know what a figure nine is its when you are holding onto a hold with your right hand and you throw your right leg up to your chest and around your right arm, the opposite of a figure four.
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outsideguyzak
Jan 9, 2006, 4:14 AM
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hmm.... i thought figure fours were just something people did in gyms sometimes for a lot of fun. I never knew it was actually useful. sweet.
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climbjunk
Jan 9, 2006, 5:08 AM
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Lynn Hill had to use one on Chouca(F8a+/13c) in Boux, and I think that is also the route that tony yaniro (another "dwarf") used it, hence the name in the US. It is a huge dyno if you are 5.6 or taller. below it is probably better with a FOF. Didier Raboutou did it without though (5'1) (old Lasportiva ad). Just to say everybody to his/her physical preferences.
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