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kungfuclimber
Aug 13, 2002, 8:37 PM
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Registered: Aug 6, 2002
Posts: 162
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As a freshman at the Dr. Piton's school for the vertically inclined I've been keeping up on my reading. I've done my homework, testing the various techniques while at the local crag or hanging from my balcony.
As the exam draws near (a small "Big wall", 518 m/1700 ft) I realise some of the material on the exam I don't know the Better Way to yet.
Pop quiz hot-shot: the ledge is secure, the haul is done, you're digesting and someone just turned off the celestial flash light. It's time to sleep. How do you make sure you don't wake up doing a MIR impersonation?
My thought is to wear my harness, tied in longish to the power point (which should be Stronger than Godtm), backed up on a subsiduary anchor.
Fellow students, help me out here!
P.S.
If tying in at all is wrong , I don't want to be right!
[ This Message was edited by: kungfuclimber on 2002-08-13 13:38 ]
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wiegs
Aug 13, 2002, 8:47 PM
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Registered: Jun 13, 2002
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I believe Dr. P has said in other posts that while on his ledge he never wears his harness, but loops a daisy[chain] around his waist, and clips in to that. *shrug* Better get it from the horse's mouth, tho.
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punk
Aug 13, 2002, 11:40 PM
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Registered: May 28, 2002
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for one, we have the couches of the big wall harnesses ( my partner have the Yates Shield and I have the Big Wall….they both WELL worth the money and if I was in emergency situation…they make a great bivy option.
As it for me and my partner in wall crime we always... tied to an alternate anchor that is backed up with the ledge anchor meaning the ledge is on one and us on the other and the haul pack on their own anchor we back up our anchor to the ledge anchor and leaving a 2’ loop dangling on the bottom outside the ledge so in case of rain the rope will not wick water to the inside of the ledge I never tie in to the ledge point… call me Paranoid
I hope it helped
[ This Message was edited by: punk on 2002-08-14 04:02 ]
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gunked
Aug 14, 2002, 8:21 AM
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Registered: Feb 1, 2002
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I love the good Dr.'s advice, yet, this point i disagree on. I always like to be prepared for worst-case scenario. If Doc's ledge blows for any reason, his harness is a daisy chain? I'm hoping that's a mistake and he's got a harness with daisies tied to the anchor at the very least!!! Imagine what would happen if he fell. It'd be a bitch climbing with broken ribs because last night you fell on a thin piece of webbing constricting your belly-chest region
I went out of my way to purchase a VERY comfortable harness. Yates Shield. It free-climbs pretty well too. I generally tie a short runner to the clip in point for the ledge. This allows my partner and I a runner-strength setup in which to clip into. Anchor to ledge-fly to ledge to me! The haulbags are on a separate system, preferably off to the side so as not to mess with the ledge yet remain accessible.
My setup is as follows : I remove my leg loops or loosen them up before I crash. I'm clipped in as short as necessary with both daisies to the ledge runner. I give myself enough room so it doesn't mess with the sleeping bag. I want to be able to close that if it gets chilly. I'm tied in with the rope as is described above (with the extra loop to prevent wicking) to a separate bomber anchor. Keep in mind that if the ledge biner fails, so will my daisies.
One of the beauty's of this system is that while setting up the ledge or adjusting it, I can (if necessary) hang from the ledge runner and I'm suspended inches above the ledge. Remember to attach the ledge-fly to the system before crashing. The last thing you'll want to do is add it to the system while it's raining in the dark!
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