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"Welcome to the Machine" (cochise) beta wanted
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sixleggedinsect


Jan 20, 2006, 11:10 PM
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"Welcome to the Machine" (cochise) beta wanted
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I was in cochise in december and put together a few routes id like to tick this january. ill only have a couple days there, and i havent climbed a pitch in a month, so i was wondering about 'welcome to the machine'.

i want to tick something on the big rockfellows, and picked that becuase in the falcon guide it had no 'R' pitches, was called 'well protected', and was classic.

so, how well protected is it? would you cochise locals reccomend something else?

i havent really done any serious climbing in cochise. lots of moderate classics, and im aware that the protection there is thought provoking at best and dont want to waste a precious day walking out there and bailing off with soiled underwear.

for comparison, maybe warpaint? how would it compare in terms of protection? difficulty? are the cruxes protected at least? what rack would you bring?

much ado about nothing,
anthony


arostecrux


Jan 20, 2006, 11:17 PM
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Re: "Welcome to the Machine" (cochise) beta wanted [In reply to]
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I have some experience at Cochise. We are talking about enormous granite egg-formations. most stuff we did was 5.7 to 5.9. Most was slabby to just less than vertical. Cochise is a magical place -- you must go and see for yourself!

We did Warpaint (if that is the one on the warpath dome 5.8?) and b/c we had three climbers it was slow. The rock is superb and the protection is fine, if you don't mind getting your ankles above your gear. GO check it out.

Roste


sixleggedinsect


Jan 21, 2006, 1:32 AM
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I have some experience at Cochise. We are talking about enormous granite egg-formations. most stuff we did was 5.7 to 5.9. Most was slabby to just less than vertical. Cochise is a magical place -- you must go and see for yourself!

We did Warpaint (if that is the one on the warpath dome 5.8?) and b/c we had three climbers it was slow. The rock is superb and the protection is fine, if you don't mind getting your ankles above your gear. GO check it out.

Roste

oops. i wasnt clear.

the nutshell version: ive spent a lot of time in cochise and only mentioned warpaint because it is the only hard 10 ive done there.

is 'welcome to the machine' as well protected as ive heard? or is it cochise-protected, ie scary and runout. becuase i dont want to do scary 10d as my first climb after a long hiatus.


mesomorf


Jan 21, 2006, 1:48 AM
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Re: "Welcome to the Machine" (cochise) beta wanted [In reply to]
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I haven't done Machine, but if it's well protected you want, do "End Game." It crosses Machine up high, IIRC. It's new, not in the book. Mostly bolted. Starts in a "cave" under a huge boulder. First pitch trends up and left. Then it's straight up, finally right (crossing Machine).

It's in the database.

You rap the other side of the dome. It's chilly.


scottd


Jan 21, 2006, 2:02 AM
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Ant,

Welcome to the machine is definately well pro'ed. At least the cruxy stuff is. You might be running it out 15-20 feet on 5.8...Shouldn't be a problem tho.

A really cool route link-up is, the first 2 pitches of "Welcome", then jump on the last 3 of "Endgame"....It's a very aesthetic way to reach the summit. And it goes at 10a (one or two moves) the rest is 8-9ish.

BTW, arostecrux, the route you did is called "Warpath" not warpaint.

Warpaint is a lot of fun!!

Do Forest Lawn when you are up there also. Superduper excellent!!!

If you can move moderately fast, it shouldn't be a problem to do both in a day.

Also, stash your packs at the base of end pinnacle where the approach trail first hits the wall, so you don't have to walk back to the base of "welcome"

Later,
Scott


sixleggedinsect


Jan 21, 2006, 2:57 AM
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Welcome to the machine is definately well pro'ed. At least the cruxy stuff is. You might be running it out 15-20 feet on 5.8...Shouldn't be a problem tho.

A really cool route link-up is, the first 2 pitches of "Welcome", then jump on the last 3 of "Endgame"....It's a very aesthetic way to reach the summit. And it goes at 10a (one or two moves) the rest is 8-9ish.

thanks for the beta! i dont have the guidebooks with me. they're in my car outside tombstone (i hope..) but i seem to recall endgame having some R climbing. id rather climb hard well pro'd terrain than stomach turning 5.8 or 9. are those final endgame pitches scary? (i knjow, i know, i should suck it up and find out on the sharp end, but time is precious this trip)

In reply to:
Do Forest Lawn when you are up there also. Superduper excellent!!!

If you can move moderately fast, it shouldn't be a problem to do both in a day.

Also, stash your packs at the base of end pinnacle where the approach trail first hits the wall, so you don't have to walk back to the base of "welcome"

did f.lawn in december. it was frigid at the bottom so i made my partner lead it, but it was lots of fun. the pitch above was recommended in the book but we werent feeling it. done it?

i think im going to try and find that 'inner passage/interiors' slot and do that as my fun warm-down.

thanks,
anthony

btw- all you tucson climbers- anyone heading down to cochise for the weekend? i need a ride from the airport late friday afternoon.


scottd


Jan 21, 2006, 1:42 PM
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Anthony,

No there aren't any scary runouts...it's all face climbing up there.

I have not done the Pair-a-grins finish to forest lawn, yet. I heard it was pretty hard though.

Interiors, looks cool, but I haven't done it yet tho.

I've got class, otherwise I'd be more than happy to climb with ya.

Later,
Scott


akornylak


Jan 21, 2006, 4:00 PM
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Re: "Welcome to the Machine" (cochise) beta wanted [In reply to]
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Interiors is wierd and pretty amazing. Especially if its windy! Bring your video camera.

I would suggest Sheepshead for longer moderate routes. The climbing is longer, more varied and the approach is a little easier.


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