|
salamanizer
Jan 24, 2006, 6:32 AM
Post #26 of 45
(5859 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 3, 2004
Posts: 879
|
Some good advice is found in these replies. A lot of these things are things that I have worked on or done that I hadn't even realized I was doing. Concentration, balance and fluid movement are things that should always be in the back of your mind. Now the trick is to go out, apply and practice these things suggested to you. Practice will get you further than theory any day. It is the key to better technique.
|
|
|
|
|
punk_rocker333
Jan 24, 2006, 6:43 AM
Post #27 of 45
(5859 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 9, 2004
Posts: 387
|
In reply to: Take up ballroom dancing.
Trust me, this doesn't work. Ballroom dancing last semester didn't do much except improve my posture... oh yeah, the ladies love it too :wink:
|
|
|
|
|
curt
Jan 24, 2006, 7:21 AM
Post #28 of 45
(5859 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 18275
|
In reply to: I've been climbing off and on for a year and a half now and still find that I tend to pull myself up bc I'm not trusting my feet or footholds. Any ideas on how to get over this fear and/or improve footwork? any suggestions are much appreciated! thanks! :D
Watch me climb and do what I do. :D
Curt
|
|
|
|
|
katalyzt
Jan 25, 2006, 10:39 PM
Post #29 of 45
(5859 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 10, 2006
Posts: 46
|
I just learned a game at the gym yesterday that helps with footwork.
They called it "silent feet". You can play by yourself or with other people. It's just like what the name says... You start a traverse... You keep going as far as you can... The catch is that if you (or anybody else who is playing) hears you put your feet on a hold then you have to start over (or it's somebody elses turn). Speed is not an object. Just try to get as far as you can without making a sound.
This will help you in putting your foot in the right spot the first time and not rub around looking for it.
|
|
|
|
|
wallmonkey35
Jan 26, 2006, 12:30 AM
Post #30 of 45
(5859 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 28, 2005
Posts: 102
|
Make sure your feet are quiet. This requires slow and delibrate movements. Another drill is to buy a pack of jibs. Put these on a plywood board and lean the board at a 45 + degree angle and traverse it not using hands.
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Jan 26, 2006, 4:05 AM
Post #32 of 45
(5859 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
In reply to: ryko said In reply to: Slabs, slabs, slabs and more slabs. I like the tennis ball idea. did I mention slabs? I couldn't agree more. I can tell you that learning to slab forces you to learn how to use your feet. What I mean is, you really get to know the feel of the rock and the capabilities of your rock shoes. You learn through slabbing just how effectively your shoes will "stick" to the rock. I think learning to slab is ultra important because on the harder climbs, you will run into less foot and hand holds and friction becomes your friend - or - your foe! Someone in a previous discussion on slabbing said "slabbing is the ballet of rock climbing". There's more about slabbing here
Slab is not a verb.
Jay
|
|
|
|
|
pico23
Jan 26, 2006, 4:12 AM
Post #33 of 45
(5859 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 14, 2003
Posts: 2378
|
Slabs and lower angle rock. Also, the gym tends to foster bad habbits. Try traverseing instead of climbing.
If you climb enough slabs you'll have no choice but to trust your feet or fall (not fun on slabs). IF you climb overhanging stuff and you're strong you can get by with weak footwork on shorter routes.
Whatever you are climbing now with poor footwork you'll be cruising 2 grades higher once you trust the feet.
Also, climb stuff below your ability and test how little you can get away with on the feet. It kinda becomes addictive seeing just how small of a hold you can stick to.
A lot of cruxes can be easily beaten with the use of intermediate foot holds that you won't dream of touching till you trust your footwork.
|
|
|
|
|
cheyennewills
Jan 26, 2006, 4:25 AM
Post #34 of 45
(5859 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 16, 2006
Posts: 11
|
As others have been saying, be very deliberate with your feet.
There are some things that you can do outside of climbing that might help.
When hiking into a bouldering area, play a little game -- You have to stay on rock, and are not allowed to step on dirt. Yes -- it's a silly game, but it makes you pay attention to what you are doing with your feet. If you come across a section that is just pure dirt, find a stone or small rock, toss it into the area and use that to hop across, etc.
Talus running (do a search on Doug Robinson)
Slackline, and slack chain/cable.
Jump up onto firehydrants and similar height posts (like the posts that hold up chains in a parking lot). Try to "stick" the jump.
Walk along a curb, but use only certain parts of your feet (just your toes, or just the "left sides" of your feet, etc.)
Again the whole idea is to think of things to do that will require you to be aware of your feet, and how your body balances on them
|
|
|
|
|
tnmountainman
Jan 26, 2006, 5:09 AM
Post #35 of 45
(5859 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 19, 2005
Posts: 99
|
great articles overlord
Thanks for the info, footwork is one of my problem areas, so is strength, balance, I just really suck at climbing, any part you care to mention. :lol:
|
|
|
|
|
katalyzt
Jan 26, 2006, 3:09 PM
Post #36 of 45
(5859 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 10, 2006
Posts: 46
|
^HAHA I'm right there with you. Practice. Practice. Practice.
|
|
|
|
|
handtraverse
Jan 27, 2006, 3:42 AM
Post #37 of 45
(5859 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 28, 2005
Posts: 153
|
jt512 wrote:In reply to: Slab is not a verb. Jay
Oh yeah...right...SLAB CLIMBING SLAB CLIMBING! :wink:
Handtraverse
_______________________________
"Mountains are not fair or unfair - they are just dangerous" Reinhold Messner
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Jan 27, 2006, 3:57 AM
Post #38 of 45
(5859 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
In reply to: jt512 wrote: In reply to: Slab is not a verb. Jay Thanks for correcting me, Jay. But this isn't english class. This is a rock climbing question and answer forum. :wink:
"Slab," used as a verb, is not part of the climbing lexicon.
Better?
Jay
|
|
|
|
|
p0bray01
Jan 27, 2006, 4:38 AM
Post #39 of 45
(5859 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 17, 2005
Posts: 148
|
i dont reccomend this but injure your ring finger tendon like I did....had to buddy tape and still do every now and again... the sucker still hurts sometimes! This has taught me to use my feet extensivly....to the point that now i hardly grip the face holds at all...mainly because when I injured myself a while back and still climbed...(IDIOT) I had to use my feet or my hands would scream at me. :?
:roll:
Climb on bro.
|
|
|
|
|
rock_junkie
Jan 27, 2006, 5:46 AM
Post #40 of 45
(5859 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 6, 2004
Posts: 172
|
Dont know if ayone mentioned this one...quit being a puss and come on!!!
|
|
|
|
|
grovehunter
Jan 27, 2006, 8:25 AM
Post #41 of 45
(5859 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 29, 2005
Posts: 227
|
I have the same problem. I have been practicing traversing, watching where I place my feet and placing them quietly. It was working pretty good till I had a slip and fall accident at work, still kind of racked up.... :roll:
Oh, and someone recommended that I commit to where I place my feet once I decide where I am going to place them.
Hope this helps!
Peace,
Chuck
|
|
|
|
|
charlet_poser
Jan 27, 2006, 9:19 AM
Post #42 of 45
(5859 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 12, 2005
Posts: 62
|
I tried an intersting exercise at the gym yesterday. I chose easy problems/routes (Vb-1/5.5-8ish), then climb using only your right foot on holds. the left has to smear or flag. get back to the ground, then do the same route again using only the left foot on holds while the right must flag/smear. I don't promise any results/improvements, but it did make me think more about my body position and foot placements. i did the problems significantly different each time and used body positions i never would have if i had just climbed it. it didn't feel harder climbing easy routes this way, it simply required creativity with footwork.
|
|
|
|
|
goob3r
Jan 27, 2006, 9:40 AM
Post #43 of 45
(5859 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 6, 2006
Posts: 219
|
the kind of shoes you're wearing can help.. i'm currently climbing with mocassims.. which suck for toeing but are great for pulling... just find a shoe that you think holds on the toe best...
but also.. if you're having trouble with your footwork.. that's just your problem.. do something about it.. like, just use your feet more.. it doesn't matter what you do.. climb normally.. just have a friend there telling you to use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. use your feet more.. until you finally use your feet more.
it's quite simple.
|
|
|
|
|
joshy8200
Jan 28, 2006, 6:25 AM
Post #44 of 45
(5859 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 1, 2002
Posts: 646
|
Climb in regular shoes and actually force yourself to make your feet stay on the holds.
|
|
|
|
|
angiebangie
Jan 30, 2006, 3:06 PM
Post #45 of 45
(5859 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 22, 2004
Posts: 5
|
Wow! Thanks for all the great suggestions/advice. I will def be trying some of them out. Also, now that I think about it the gym I go to is usually pretty loud what with the crowds and music being played in the background that I never noticed what sounds my feet were making...
I shall try and notice... and pay more attention to feet placement and just go for it!
YOU GUYS ROCK!!!
:D
|
|
|
|
|
|
