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woodthrush


Feb 8, 2006, 4:45 PM
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Best trad climbing in CO?
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Hey looking to go out to CO for a week of climbing, where to begin? We want to climb some great trad routes out there, but there are so many areas. Where would you go if you had a week to climb in Colorado?


killclimbz


Feb 8, 2006, 4:47 PM
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When are you going to Colorado? Time of year makes a difference as to where you want to trad climb.


speedywon


Feb 8, 2006, 4:56 PM
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Eldorado Canyon and Lumpy Ridge

They are close enough together you could hit both on the same trip.


tibetnkid


Feb 8, 2006, 5:27 PM
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hit lumpy ridge. the granite is quality, nice lines are abundant, and the scenery is unbeatable. consider craging at the book or bookmark, there's absolutly stellar climbing there. afterwards have a pint at ed's cantina. enjoy.


mbg


Feb 8, 2006, 5:35 PM
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I second the recommedations on spending a couple days each at Eldo and Lumpy but would also add the South Platte to round out the trip.

Both Eldo and the Platte are doable year-round but you'll want to chase the shade in Eldo during the summer.


Partner euroford


Feb 8, 2006, 5:43 PM
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if your up for it, hit up the backcountry in RMNP after getting warmed up at Lumpy.

what grades are you looking at?

if your driving from NJ, drive all night and arrive in Boulder at the crack of dawn, get some breakfast/coffee then go run up the huge but very easy 1st flatiron.


paganmonkeyboy


Feb 8, 2006, 5:53 PM
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In reply to:
hit lumpy ridge. the granite is quality, nice lines are abundant, and the scenery is unbeatable. consider craging at the book or bookmark, there's absolutly stellar climbing there. afterwards have a pint at ed's cantina. enjoy.

yup
except maybe get a marg instead :D


Partner euroford


Feb 8, 2006, 5:55 PM
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except maybe get a marg instead :D

and the nacho's are amazing. honest to god, the best fricken nacho's known to mankind.


maldaly


Feb 8, 2006, 6:20 PM
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Get crazy and do the Grand Tour:
Day 1 - Eldo - Yellow Spur or Naked Edge
Day 2 - Lumpy Ridge, RMNP - Mainliner on Sundance
Day 3 - South Platte-Cynical Pinnacle - Wunch's Dihedral
Day 4 - Black Canyon - Scenic Cruise - Journey Home
Day 5 - Colorado National Monument - Otto's Route
Day 6 - Aspen, Independence Pass - Craggin' at the Grotto Wall
Day 7 - Boulder Canyon - Castle Rock - Athlete's Feat, Country Club Crack, Englishman's Home
Day 8 - Rest Day

Enjoy,
Mal


paganmonkeyboy


Feb 8, 2006, 7:22 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
except maybe get a marg instead :D

and the nacho's are amazing. honest to god, the best fricken nacho's known to mankind.

damn straight

now i miss living there in estes...sniffle....:(


woodthrush


Feb 8, 2006, 11:33 PM
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I was thinking of Eldo as one stop, Lumpy sounds cool and a pint at Ed's sounds awesome too! Looking at routes in the 5.7 to 5.10 range, in the summer (August). We'll have about 8 days to climb, so we can check out a few spots.

Also, Any camping around there that isn't pitching your tent next to an RV with a TV or radio blaring half the night - actual camping?

Thanks!


westy55373


Feb 9, 2006, 2:17 AM
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There is always combat in drake, co. up the big thompson. Variaty from 5.7 and up, some sport, some mix, and trad. South facing and nice.


rockprodigy


Feb 9, 2006, 3:19 AM
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I would warn against the South Platte for a first time trip to CO. Many crags are hard to find, have access issues, long approaches, bad topos, inadequate information, private property, bad anchors, low concentrations of routes for miles driven/hiked etc. and so on. Lumpy, Eldo, RMNP, Boulder Canyon all offer more climbing for the travel time than the South Platte, have excellent guidebooks and no access issues.

If you're here in the summer, I would add Independence Pass for great granite.

Many of the routes Malcom listed may be closed for the birds in August, so keep that in mind (Naked Edge/Cynical Pinnacle?)


horseonwheels


Feb 9, 2006, 3:53 AM
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In reply to:
Lumpy, Eldo, RMNP, Boulder Canyon all offer more climbing for the travel time than the South Platte, have excellent guidebooks and no access issues.

True, but the camping at all of those places except for RMNP either sucks or doesn't exist, and RMNP is relatively high priced pay or bivy camping. South Platte has great camping at many places, and with the exception of RMNP, feels a lot more adventuresome.

That said, I certainly wouldn't skip Lumpy, Eldo, or RMNP, but Boulder Canyon isn't even in the same league for good trad climbing. The only problem with RMNP is that most places take a while to hike to, so don't count on getting a lot of routes done in a short period of time.


moose_droppings


Feb 9, 2006, 4:37 AM
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Once you try Black.........

You'll always go back.


Partner euroford


Feb 9, 2006, 2:36 PM
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In reply to:
Also, Any camping around there that isn't pitching your tent next to an RV with a TV or radio blaring half the night - actual camping?

camping in RMNP is actually very nice. the basic campsites are well away from the rv sites and many offer nice views of the surrounding peaks. kinda crazy to have elk walking through your site though.

after we get our site reserved i'll let you know which ones have a view of the diamond :D


Partner angry


Feb 9, 2006, 3:17 PM
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The Cynical Pinnacle is closed from March 1st to July 31st last I checked.

And Vedauwoo in south-eastern Wyoming is within 2 hours of most of the mentioned areas too. Don't forget about that.


flamer


Feb 9, 2006, 4:37 PM
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For truly long Traditional routes the 2 best areas are...The Black canyon and RMNP. The campng on the North rim of the black is sweet, but have you shit wired tight if you want to climb out of that hole.
RMNP there is plenty of free camping on Forest service land around Estes. The climbing is less committing than the black.

For medium length stuff Eldo and The south platte are good. The camping situation in Eldo is nonexsistent. Camping in the Platte is plentiful and a mix of free and pay. I'd throw Lumpy in here but it's part of RMNP and I covered that above!

For shorter cragging you can go about anywhere!


josh


horseonwheels


Feb 9, 2006, 7:37 PM
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In reply to:
And Vedauwoo in south-eastern Wyoming is within 2 hours of most of the mentioned areas too. Don't forget about that.

Oh my god!! Why didn't anyone (including myself) say something about Vedauwoo before? If you go midweek there is almost no crowd, and the camping there is great.


woodthrush


Feb 9, 2006, 11:06 PM
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Sounds awesome, I can't wait to get out there... I wonder if I can extend my vacation time about ... hmm, 60 days!!


maldaly


Feb 9, 2006, 11:36 PM
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just quit your job and move here...


Partner euroford


Feb 10, 2006, 12:54 AM
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just quit your job and move here...

i'd love to!!

making the big bucks in the big city is getting kinda old, can i have a job malcom??


(my wife might object, but i'll deal with that later)


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