|
cosmin
Feb 11, 2006, 3:21 PM
Post #1 of 30
(3719 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 3, 2004
Posts: 131
|
The XVth Piolet d'Or has been awarded to Steve House and Vince Anderson for their ascent of Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat in Pakistan.
DAMN RIGHT!!!!
Cosmin :D
|
|
|
|
|
devkrev
Feb 11, 2006, 3:37 PM
Post #2 of 30
(3719 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 28, 2004
Posts: 933
|
I thought the Piolet d'Or was supposed to be awarded to huge teams that siege routes and leave crap strung all over the place? :D
Awesome news, great for them.
dev
|
|
|
|
|
furrymurry
Feb 12, 2006, 4:36 AM
Post #3 of 30
(3719 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 6, 2004
Posts: 205
|
YAYYYYY!!! Way to throw it right back in those dirty Russians' faces. Right after their guy gets plucked off the mountain House and Anderson blitz it and win the very award stolen from him (House) the year before. Whoooppeeeeee!
|
|
|
|
|
kalcario
Feb 12, 2006, 5:12 AM
Post #4 of 30
(3719 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 1601
|
In reply to: YAYYYYY!!! Way to throw it right back in those dirty Russians' faces. Right after their guy gets plucked off the mountain House and Anderson blitz it and win the very award stolen from him (House) the year before. Whoooppeeeeee!
or something like that...
|
|
|
|
|
euroford
Feb 12, 2006, 6:21 AM
Post #5 of 30
(3719 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 2913
|
hell yeah, those guys earned it!
|
|
|
|
|
anykineclimb
Feb 12, 2006, 8:20 AM
Post #6 of 30
(3719 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 30, 2003
Posts: 3593
|
Outstanding!
not sure how much it really means after the Russians got it last year...
maybe its a step in the right direction though.
|
|
|
|
|
cosmin
Feb 12, 2006, 5:00 PM
Post #7 of 30
(3719 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 3, 2004
Posts: 131
|
In reply to: Right after their guy gets plucked off the mountain House and Anderson blitz it
It wasn't 'their guy'. The rescued climber was Tomaz Humar who is Slovenian - kinda difference like New Hampshire and Louisiana....
They had slighlty different conditions on the wall as well as being a team.
In reply to: and win the very award stolen from him (House) the year before. Whoooppeeeeee!
An un-awarded trophy can't really be stolen, can it....
No doubt that within the very guidelines of the award the Russian ascent of Jannu is probably the most controversial winner and the solo of K7 is a fine climb. But they didn't steal it.... according to the mission of the award they didn't deserve it but that's quite different
This year, however would have been hard to beat House/Anderson since their climb had both style and unparraleld objective.
C
|
|
|
|
|
rossgoddard
Feb 12, 2006, 6:36 PM
Post #8 of 30
(3719 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 18, 2003
Posts: 181
|
read mark synott's article in the august or september climbing about jannu for a new take on it. i dontmm know where i stand, but both sides arent really out on the climb...
|
|
|
|
|
iceisnice
Feb 17, 2006, 1:45 AM
Post #10 of 30
(3719 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 2, 2004
Posts: 874
|
vince anderson gave a presentation on the climb at fort lewis last night. he was a bit too modest about the difficulties, but still, great climb in great style.
|
|
|
|
|
yokese
Feb 17, 2006, 3:00 AM
Post #11 of 30
(3719 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 18, 2006
Posts: 672
|
Congratulations to House and Anderson. However, after reading the letter from Italian team that climbed El Cerro Torre, my point of view about the Piolet d'Or has changed quite a bit....
Sorry, I haven't found the letter in its original version (italian) or english.
|
|
|
|
|
cdog
Feb 17, 2006, 3:26 AM
Post #12 of 30
(3719 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 7, 2005
Posts: 33
|
a spectacular feat, no doubt...
I'd prefer if Steve let his actions do the talking
|
|
|
|
|
slobmonster
Feb 17, 2006, 5:05 AM
Post #13 of 30
(3719 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 28, 2003
Posts: 1586
|
I'm smiling at having had the opportunity to rope up with both over the years. Of course, I'm also quite excited that friends have been honored by such an award. In Europe, making a living as a climbing guide and porfessional expeditioner is far less unlikely than here in the US. Both Steve and Vince are IFMGA-certified guides, qualified and competent throughout... in fact, Vince was the youngest American guide to complete his full international certification. I can tell you from personal experience that both these guys are motivated, humble, hungry, *talented* climbers, who know what it's all about.
Three cheers, and a raised glass!
|
|
|
|
|
builttospill
Feb 17, 2006, 8:14 AM
Post #14 of 30
(3719 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2004
Posts: 814
|
In reply to: Congratulations to House and Anderson. However, after reading the letter from Italian team that climbed El Cerro Torre, my point of view about the Piolet d'Or has changed quite a bit.... Sorry, I haven't found the letter in its original version (italian) or english.
Do you have a copy of this letter in english? And if not, what did they say that changed your viewpoint on the award?
|
|
|
|
|
furrymurry
Feb 17, 2006, 12:32 PM
Post #16 of 30
(3719 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 6, 2004
Posts: 205
|
Oh come on. House has never struck me as the kind of guy inclined to whining. The Russian assault on Jannu was clearly a regression in style, the majority of the alpine community has agreed on that. Whether you agree with House's position or not, at least grant him the benefit of recognizing that his point is a legitimate one and he isn't just whining about losing.
|
|
|
|
|
kixx
Feb 17, 2006, 1:43 PM
Post #17 of 30
(3719 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 23, 2005
Posts: 178
|
I agree, that simply accepting the presentation of the award to a team that showed poor style without protest would not have been right. House needed to speak up about that and everyone in the climbing community should have been behind him. Not saying anything would not have been right.
The climb on the Rupal face that got him the award this year fit all the criteria of the award... I don't think it's a sympathy vote. House and Anderson must have been thinking of this as they moved up the pillar on that face. They didn't want sympathy but to continue a push for cleaner, simpler, and pure alpinism and they were doing something that could not be ignored.
I'm inspired by that effort, and a team who advances style and ethics to set an example for the rest of us should be rewarded and recognized for it.
|
|
|
|
|
euroford
Feb 17, 2006, 2:36 PM
Post #18 of 30
(3719 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 2913
|
of course i don't know house or anderson, but i'd say Kixx successfully laid the situation out as i believe to be true.
i don't think these guys diserve to have any detractors, but i'll quote a saying i heard once: "if your Bitchin, you'll have detractors".
i think house as managed to show through his actions that he truly stands for the values of alpine style, i think its clear that last years winners did not. last year nobody was in a better postion than House to pitch a bitch that would actually be heard.
|
|
|
|
|
tradman
Feb 17, 2006, 2:57 PM
Post #19 of 30
(3719 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 14, 2003
Posts: 7159
|
House is a crybaby.
If he was so fucking concerned with the russians' ethics, then how come he didn't say anything publically until after they beat him to the award fair and square?
There are people in a better position to judge than house - they're called the judging panel of the piolet d'or. They decide who wins and whose style is good, not some snivelling little coward who's calling his betters names.
|
|
|
|
|
cowpoke
Feb 17, 2006, 4:26 PM
Post #20 of 30
(3719 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 3, 2005
Posts: 142
|
In reply to: House is a crybaby.
In reply to: some snivelling little coward who's calling his betters names.
I hope the irony was intended...otherwise, that's pretty funny!
|
|
|
|
|
neurostar
Feb 17, 2006, 4:58 PM
Post #21 of 30
(3719 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 7, 2004
Posts: 153
|
In reply to: There are people in a better position to judge than house - they're called the judging panel of the piolet d'or. They decide who wins and whose style is good, not some snivelling little coward who's calling his betters names.
I didn't know fixed lines and siege tactics counted as alpine style...
|
|
|
|
|
hasbeen
Feb 17, 2006, 5:58 PM
Post #22 of 30
(3719 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 17, 2003
Posts: 543
|
congrats to the boys. they rock. they deserve it, no question.
however, it's just an award, which is a group's opinion. it's like saying the best pic for oscar is the best picture, no question. that's absurd. i doubt that a group of anyone is better to assess what they think a major ascent is better than the people out there doing it. so house's complaints are completely valid. he's earned that right. doesn't mean he's not a 'crybaby,' he could be, but he's earned the right to have his opinion acknowledged.
as for humar, who's not russian, he was friggin' soloing. whoever's slagging him is a dipshit.
and the russian's, well, read about the expedition and see if it sounds like bad style to you. okay, i mean, it wasn't great style. but christ, those guys are friggin' BURLY. that ascent is insane, and a huge jump in world standards. it may be poor style, but it's the best style we're currently capable of. sure, some day some superman will blitz that thing solo, but i reckon that's a long way off at this point. no one would dare even try.
|
|
|
|
|
ropeburn
Feb 17, 2006, 6:58 PM
Post #23 of 30
(3719 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 19, 2003
Posts: 594
|
Try this.
Not perfect but the message gets across.
|
|
|
|
|
ropeburn
Feb 17, 2006, 7:00 PM
Post #24 of 30
(3719 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 19, 2003
Posts: 594
|
In reply to: In reply to: Congratulations to House and Anderson. However, after reading the letter from Italian team that climbed El Cerro Torre, my point of view about the Piolet d'Or has changed quite a bit.... Sorry, I haven't found the letter in its original version (italian) or english. Do you have a copy of this letter in english? And if not, what did they say that changed your viewpoint on the award?
Not perfect, but the message gets across.
|
|
|
|
|
tradman
Feb 20, 2006, 10:09 AM
Post #25 of 30
(3719 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 14, 2003
Posts: 7159
|
House has a long track record of bleating and bitching about other people's climbs. Heck, in the current issue of Alpinist someone had to write in to set the record straight YET AGAIN after House told a pack of lies about there not having been any serious non-british attempts at K7.
The man is a spineless little turd who hasn't even got the guts to respect his fellow climbers.
He's a prick.
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
