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reunionron
May 18, 2005, 7:01 PM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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I have been climbing for a number of years but I have only been seriously climbing for about nine months. I have been making a lot of progress lately and trying to improve my climbing. I have been lead climbing 5b (5.9) for a month or two and trying to lead 5c (5.10). Today I had my first real fall. Not very bad compared to what I have read on this site. I was trying to get over the crux. It was an overhang with about 2 1/2 metters between the bolts. I was really pushing myself to make it. I had a great hold for my right hand but could not find anything very solid for my left. Finally I tried to move up anyway but could not hold on. After the fall I tried it again but did not have enough strength left. I bailed and my 12 year old partner went up and finished the route. I did redo it toproped. Maybe next time. I got a nice rope burn across my leg to prove I tried. At 49 I am not too interested in falling, I might break something, but I am kind of psyched about this one. It will feel even better when I can lead 5c.
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killclimbz
May 18, 2005, 8:42 PM
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Registered: May 6, 2000
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If you are sport climbing, which it sounds like you are, then falling is part of leading and is generally safe. Very little should happen to you, besides the wind whistling through your hair. Try that route again and go for it until you redpoint that sucka. Just remember to keep the rope in a safe position and be awares of any objects that can cause you harm. Sounds like this route qualifies. Work it.
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catbird_seat
May 19, 2005, 3:43 PM
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Registered: Apr 7, 2004
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Your first sport climbing fall is one milestone. Your first trad climbing fall is yet another. It's a lot harder to trust gear you have placed yourself compared to a solid bolt.
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climberboy193838
Jan 20, 2006, 4:16 AM
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Registered: Nov 22, 2005
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i had a similar situation w/ my first lead fall....the one difference is that my belayer decided to make it more "fun" for me and gave me a bunch of slack right as i was gonna fall.... it was fun and a good experince....
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angulardisfunction
Feb 16, 2006, 10:25 AM
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Registered: Sep 15, 2005
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Your mental is stronger then you think. While in Thailand, at the famous Tonsai, I was climbing 6a and 6b. I was afraid as could be leading these routes until I read an article. As mystical as this sounds it really helped. The article included things that we as climbers do when we are afraid of falling(grabbing onto draws, not mentally being prepared to get to the next bolt and so on). Your body is capable of more then your mind will lead you to think. You have to be ready to fall if you are lead climbing but not thinking about it. Your only thoughts should be BREATHING and reaching the next bolt. At times, before I climb a route I mentally picture myself getting passed the crux. After leaving Thailand I was climbing 6c's with ease, its a mental game!
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reunionron
Feb 16, 2006, 10:56 AM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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There is a lot of truth in what you said. I now can lead 5c and am making a lot of progress with 6a. Just a few weeks ago I was able to go back to that 5c where I fell and I was able to lead it. This week I was at a gym and was leading a overhanging climb. I was going to do it at a lower level when someone challenged me to try the higher level. I tried it but at the end I used an extra hold because I was afraid. Afterward I climbed it top-roped at the higher level so if I had controlled my fear I would have made it.
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