|
daithi
Feb 17, 2006, 1:41 AM
Post #26 of 52
(5883 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 6, 2005
Posts: 397
|
At lower grades I think there is more of a discrepancy. Easy gym climbs, which are often vertical and have massive purple jugs, are really different in character to easy climbs outdoors, which are normally inclined and sometimes can be quite technical. I find though the harder the grade, the more an indoor route can simulate the holds and movement of an outdoor route depending of course on the style of climbing one does.
|
|
|
|
|
kyote321
Feb 17, 2006, 8:04 PM
Post #27 of 52
(5883 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 24, 2005
Posts: 636
|
12a is near impossilbe at the local gym
usually flash or second go 12a outside
same for bouldering
|
|
|
|
|
tomma
Feb 20, 2006, 1:25 PM
Post #28 of 52
(5883 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 7, 2004
Posts: 84
|
the hardest boulder you've ever done should, by definition, cost you a lot of effort and time,
i can't imagine investing nearly as much time and energy in doing something indoors and as it takes to climb a real thing..
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
Feb 20, 2006, 4:36 PM
Post #29 of 52
(5883 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
In reply to: the hardest boulder you've ever done should, by definition, cost you a lot of effort and time...
For me that's around V4. And a lot of effort and time is the better part of a morning.
In reply to: i can't imagine investing nearly as much time and energy in doing something indoors and as it takes to climb a real thing..
I hear that, but I've flashed V5 in my local gym. I think that 1 - I've just spent too much damn time in the gym, and 2 - many of the problems there are feather-bagged.
GO
|
|
|
|
|
calii22
Feb 20, 2006, 6:06 PM
Post #30 of 52
(5883 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 8, 2004
Posts: 45
|
It just depends on if you climb in door more or out. I think indoor is way hard because I climb outdoor so much more but im also comeing into terms: as there both not even connected and i think they are completely diffrnt sports. Kinda like rope climbing and bouldering.Indoors you need alot of core strenth and not finger strenth,out doors you need alot of finger strenth and only a decent amont of core. But its amazeing how diffrent the balance and technique parts sway away from indoor verses outdoor.
|
|
|
|
|
kachoong
Feb 20, 2006, 6:22 PM
Post #31 of 52
(5883 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 23, 2004
Posts: 15304
|
Indoor can be harder a lot of the time, because those huge holds get in the way of the small ones you're trying to move between. Damn jugs!
....and if you complain that rock tears your fingers up, you're not climbing hard enough or getting outside enough....
Can it really be 'bouldering' if you're in a gym?
|
|
|
|
|
alpinerock
Feb 21, 2006, 3:05 AM
Post #32 of 52
(5883 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 17, 2003
Posts: 600
|
In reply to: In reply to: the fronts actually rather featherbagged in my experiance, i wouldn't go bashing the fronts route setters though, their some of the best in the nation. Its heaven climbing their problems after coming over from the quarry. I don't think that they make their problems harder by placing the holds farther apart, i'm only 5'6" and i've flashed their V7/8's, i haven't taken the time to really work anything though so i can't compare it to my outside redpoints which are usually higher but i also put more effort into them. I used to think the same as you, and i actually still like the problems in the front, but I don't think the route setting quality is still the same, it's gone downhill in the last little while. So what do you not like about the quarry? I have never been there, but the new gym that is being put in up here (logan) is by a guy that practically worships pedersen and his route setting "skills" and is having the quarry crew come up here several weeks before opening to put up the initial routes. (I have never met Jeff Pedersen, but I do know that he has given Trevor (the rockhaus owner) a ton of help).
No question Jeff Pedersens routes are amazing, but Jeff sets a very small percentage of the routes at the quarry, there is one setter who hasn't climbed outside 10 times in his life.... I don't know they just seem very contrived and wierd sequences that don't feel realistic at all to me
|
|
|
|
|
metoliusdmm
Feb 27, 2006, 6:30 AM
Post #33 of 52
(5883 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 8, 2003
Posts: 12
|
i would try to watch what ya say about the route setting stuff! cause i really don't think you have flashed v8 at the quarry! they have some hard problems, and try to get your facts right about the setters, cause they all climb outside regularly! (more than 10 times)
|
|
|
|
|
ajkclay
Feb 28, 2006, 1:25 PM
Post #34 of 52
(5883 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 9, 2002
Posts: 1567
|
In reply to: Indoor can be harder a lot of the time, because those huge holds get in the way of the small ones you're trying to move between. Damn jugs!
... not to mention the consequences of dropping on some of those off limits jugs :shock:
You know, there was this great route at my gym about 18 months ago which was totally stuffed up when they put a beginner's route on the same line; One of the jugs made it impossible to make the gaston required to do it :roll:
ehhh, what am I complaining about? It was only an indoor route
cheers
Adam
|
|
|
|
|
alpinerock
Feb 28, 2006, 7:12 PM
Post #35 of 52
(5883 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 17, 2003
Posts: 600
|
In reply to: i would try to watch what ya say about the route setting stuff! cause i really don't think you have flashed v8 at the quarry! they have some hard problems, and try to get your facts right about the setters, cause they all climb outside regularly! (more than 10 times)
I haven't flashed V8 at the quarry nor do i claim to, if you were to read my other posts i was talking about the Front. And most of them do climb outside reguarly, there is, or was he might climb outside more now, a setter named andrew i believe? when he started setting about 4 to 6 months ago i was talking to him and obviously REAL climbing came up, meaning outdoors, and he said he had only been outside like 6 times or some pathetically small number like that... I just personally don't like the quarry's problems that much, they seem really contrived and force you into wierd unnatural sequences...
|
|
|
|
|
metoliusdmm
Mar 1, 2006, 8:17 PM
Post #36 of 52
(5883 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 8, 2003
Posts: 12
|
Alright let me get this into your head right now! Indoor climbing will never mimick outdoors ever, you may have a problem that climbs like an outdoor route, but plastic will never be like rock! And im sorry you think the Quarry has strange problems... so be it if they do, and i wouldn't put anything on Andrew, he started climbing in the winter, and no beginner is going to climb outside in the winter, im sorry but they just won't! and by the way, i like the stuff you have on 8A.nu, that's funny stuff! Speedball with a broken wrist! that's good stuff!
|
|
|
|
|
alpinerock
Mar 2, 2006, 2:14 AM
Post #37 of 52
(5883 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 17, 2003
Posts: 600
|
In reply to: Alright let me get this into your head right now! Indoor climbing will never mimick outdoors ever, you may have a problem that climbs like an outdoor route, but plastic will never be like rock! And im sorry you think the Quarry has strange problems... so be it if they do, and i wouldn't put anything on Andrew, he started climbing in the winter, and no beginner is going to climb outside in the winter, im sorry but they just won't! and by the way, i like the stuff you have on 8A.nu, that's funny stuff! Speedball with a broken wrist! that's good stuff!
I know indoor climbing will never mimick outdoors, which is why in my 3 years of climbing i've never had a gym pass and climb inside less than 10 days a year. I learned outside, i didn't set foot in a gym until i had been climbing for around a year. Funny stuff about my getting speedball with a broken wrist eh? I admit i didn't have any witnesses for the actual send beside my dad, but Boone Speed took several pictures of me working on it with my cast on, I have video of me working it with a cast on two days before the send if you still don't believe me i can e-mail it too you, its not a large file. If you doubt my ability your welcome to join me up LCC this week...PM me if your interested. And as for Andrew not climbing outside in the winter and still setting routes, exactly my point! It was still a Noob with no/extremely limited REAL climbing experiance setting routes!...
In other words... STFU nOOb!
|
|
|
|
|
metoliusdmm
Mar 2, 2006, 4:05 AM
Post #38 of 52
(5883 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 8, 2003
Posts: 12
|
I never doubted that you did speedball, nor do i care, but the fact that you are inviting me to challenge your abilty is simply nonsence! can't belive that! In fact good on ya for doing speedball, it's a hard problem! this is lame, can't believe it came down to this. just stop baggin on gyms and the route setters alright, you can't always have what you want! end of discussion!
|
|
|
|
|
alpinerock
Mar 2, 2006, 4:14 AM
Post #39 of 52
(5883 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 17, 2003
Posts: 600
|
In reply to: I never doubted that you did speedball, nor do i care, but the fact that you are inviting me to challenge your abilty is simply nonsence! can't belive that! In fact good on ya for doing speedball, it's a hard problem! this is lame, can't believe it came down to this. just stop baggin on gyms and the route setters alright, you can't always have what you want! end of discussion!
Okay, i just got the impression from your last post that you were saying i didn't send it, i guess thats the peril of communicating over the internet... I didn't mean for it to come down to this sort of druggary either, i wasn't trying to bag on the quarry per say, i just don't personally enjoy climbing there. This is my opinion and is not consensus or anything, its just not for me. I guess we shall agree to disagree?
|
|
|
|
|
metoliusdmm
Mar 2, 2006, 4:20 AM
Post #40 of 52
(5883 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 8, 2003
Posts: 12
|
well im glad we have come to an understanding! but let me ask you this, if you don't enjoy the quarry, will you be climbing at the new gym being built in sandy?
|
|
|
|
|
happybob
Mar 2, 2006, 4:24 AM
Post #41 of 52
(5883 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 6, 2005
Posts: 57
|
I agree with alpinerock, the sequences at the Quarry did feel kinda strange and unnatural. But then again, it had been a while and I'm not that good. :?
|
|
|
|
|
p0bray01
Mar 2, 2006, 4:41 AM
Post #42 of 52
(5883 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 17, 2005
Posts: 148
|
unrooted wrote:
Climbing outside tears your fingers up, real rock hurts, therefore I climb much better inside, especcially in the Front in SLC. I've done v-4 outside, and v-6 at the front. Maybe cause I'm 6'4" and they don't know how to set harder routes without placing holds farther apart?
I Actually agree and disagree....Yeah you come into contact with some sharp ass limestone pockets and some gnarly crimpers outside BUT! I have found that a "crimp" in the gym is sometimes DAMN harder to hang on to than outside due (non texture) of the hold than to the friction of actual rock. I believe the gym I go to sand bags a bit...but like one guy said its all relative (ratings that is) A 5.12 climber who sets routes at a gym may set a 5.8....to him...to someone else could be 5.12! (well maybe not that much difference but you get the point) 8^)
When I started (I learned in the gym) to climb outside it was harder for me...5.8 felt like 5.10. I climbed 5.10 in the gym!! Ugggh... :roll: :wink: I soon found out that ya gotta climb specifically for what you want...if you want rock...climb rock...if plastic is your poison climb plastic! :lol: Me...Winter months usually means plastic....otherwise...ITS ROCK TIME! :D
|
|
|
|
|
alpinerock
Mar 2, 2006, 4:21 PM
Post #43 of 52
(5883 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 17, 2003
Posts: 600
|
I'll try it out for sure, but as for getting a pass... I just don't climb in gyms really. I might eventually but we'll see, i just don't stay motivated when i'm inside, even a three hour comp is stretching my attention span for plastic! :)
|
|
|
|
|
rocksmoker
Mar 2, 2006, 5:14 PM
Post #44 of 52
(5883 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 18, 2005
Posts: 15
|
We also dont grade routes in our gym. Most gym rats like to grade stuff hard to make themselves feel better because they never actually get outside.
Plastic Sucks
|
|
|
|
|
scrimshaw
Mar 3, 2006, 7:58 AM
Post #45 of 52
(5883 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 24, 2006
Posts: 6
|
Listen Alpinerock, if that is your real name, I have read through your posts and seen your pictures, and I just wanna ask you two questions. 1.)How long did you work Speedball, and 2.) how does it feel to have a whole series of posed bouldering pictures? I mean come on, Speedball is one move and all your pictures are not of the hard move, what gives?
|
|
|
|
|
ajkclay
Mar 3, 2006, 1:54 PM
Post #46 of 52
(5883 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 9, 2002
Posts: 1567
|
In reply to: Listen Alpinerock, if that is your real name
:lol: friggin' hilarious! :lol:
|
|
|
|
|
alpinerock
Mar 6, 2006, 3:55 AM
Post #47 of 52
(5883 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 17, 2003
Posts: 600
|
In reply to: Listen Alpinerock, if that is your real name
Are you serious.....? I mean would i even consider using anything other than my real name for my screen name? preposterious! What kind of moral degenerate do you take me for?!
In reply to: I have read through your posts and seen your pictures, and I just wanna ask you two questions.
Okay sounds great!
In reply to: 1.)How long did you work Speedball
I started working it back in september, broke my wrist a week later after giving it about 2 days of work(2 days in this case meaning getting on three or four times, flailing horribly, losing motivation and generally going home discouraged) and did not get on it again for about a month or two, started seriously working on it again near then end of november, now with a hard cast with a thumb spike, got new beta from Boone, namely, start on the starting holds not on the low pocket and since the undercling broke off, a rather sharp two finger crimp, then i went to st. george and it snowed while i was gone. I came back over christmas break, de-iced the pinch and sent(sent meaning i didn't top out, i grabbed the tower hold and laid across the snow at the top, since the topout is of negligable difficulty i considered it a send, having done every V9 move on the problem and being in a postion of control) all told i spent maybe a week of working on it? Only on two or three of those days did i take more than 5 goes on it.
In reply to: 2.) how does it feel to have a whole series of posed bouldering pictures? I mean come on, Speedball is one move and all your pictures are not of the hard move, what gives?
Pretty good? the pictures were all taken when i was trying the low start back in September, actually the day before i broke my wrist! I admit i wasn't far on the problem then but its all climbing.
well there you go! any other questions scrimshaw?... or is that not your real name? :?
|
|
|
|
|
scrimshaw
Mar 7, 2006, 8:21 AM
Post #48 of 52
(5883 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 24, 2006
Posts: 6
|
Sorry it took me so long to reply to this , I was on an extended climbing trip, not sitting at my computer looking at porn and pretending to climb, like you Alpinerock. Anyway I don't really care what you climb, or more to the point, don't climb, and I have nothing more to say on the issue. Arrgh Matey.
|
|
|
|
|
tonloc
Mar 7, 2006, 8:42 AM
Post #49 of 52
(5883 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 249
|
the anger is simply overwhelming on this site, the "if that is your real name" bit was great though...i am impressed at the ability of some to flex their ego over the internet, though it seems a worthless endeavour to me...
|
|
|
|
|
tonloc
Mar 7, 2006, 8:46 AM
Post #50 of 52
(5883 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 249
|
and a lesson to all...f$*k sandbagging, try dirtbagging your routes, just f'n lie about what you can do and say that you either aren't climbing today and or aren't trying...try it it works to bag mad biznatches...and just kidding if the use of mad biznatches makes any biznatches mad at me...
|
|
|
|
|
|
