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tagaustatoppen
Feb 20, 2006, 10:02 PM
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Registered: Dec 16, 2005
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I am getting back into climbing after being out of it for 3 years this will be my second summer back on the rock. Last summer I was not able to climb as much as I would have liked. I am climbing 3 days a week right now and plan to keep this up through the summer. The person that is climbing with me this season is quite new to the spot and wants to learn trad so he wants to follow me this season. Right now we climb 3 days a week in the gym. I want to get some endurance before it warms up and I just enjoy being there. I am generally skeptical of anyone that I haven't climbed with much but I was particularly worried when I told this guy that I was not interested in climbing much higher than a .10 or .11 level in the gym and that I was only look to top out at a .9 maybe .10 trad this season. He's reply was, "you wimp." I thought well he just doesn't understand. As I have climbed with him more he always has something to say about how we need to be pushing ourselves harder and how we need to be reaching for the .13 level. When I tell him that I am finished for the night he also tells me well only a wimp would stop now. This was interesting because of the experience he has of climbing and I let him know that my goals are set at leading 5.9 maybe 5.10- trad this season. I'm looking for a little advise and other perspectives on the idea of climbing with people you don't know well.
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guitarclimber
Feb 20, 2006, 11:05 PM
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Its great that you're getting back into climbing. You're partner sounds like a yuppie moron. Ditch him and find someone who can respect you.
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dirtineye
Feb 21, 2006, 5:03 AM
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Is it possible that he is just kidding?
If he is not kidding, find someone else. Climbing is something you should do with people you like, who are on the same page, and who you can have a good time with.
A little good natured ribbing is one thing, but being a jerk does not make for a good partnership.
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tradrenn
Feb 27, 2006, 4:57 AM
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I have come back to climbing in 2003 and I'm still climbing the lower grades 'cause of the same reason as yours. In last 3 years I only meet 3 people that I loved to climbed with. As far as I'm concern, I ditch people like him in the first week of climbing together.
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kydd76
Feb 28, 2006, 2:33 PM
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have fun! If this guy is giving you sh*t and you feel it not in fun ditch him. Gym climbing is a lot different than trad. Give him a good 5.10 crack that is all tech locks, or find some one else. climbing first and formost should be fun.
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tradclmbr
Feb 28, 2006, 3:17 PM
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You sometimes a partner pushing you to climb harder and out of your comfort zone is a good thing. One of my current partners climbs alot harder than me and when he sees me backing down off of a move , throwing in too much gear, failing to "bear down" or approaching a big move tentatively, he'll give me shit on the spot. I find it motivating to be reminded that the move is not beyond me, that Im just being a "wimp", I dont find it detracting at all and sometimes its been the difference between making it and not.
Another partner (the guy who actually introduced me to climbing 6 years ago and whose been climbing for 15 years) doesnt push himself or me at all. Though he is a really good friend and time spent climbing with him is fun, its not nearly as satisfying (easy on the broke-back comments pls).
So - I guess that means that your partner isnt neccesarily a bad partner - very likely that some would find him motivating. He's just a bad partner for you (and maybe just for now while your reacquainting yourself to climbing).
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gmreeves
Feb 28, 2006, 3:41 PM
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what's the worry of pushing yourself in the gym? i don't have a gym to climb in during the week but the whole reason to train or to climg in a gym is for training outdoors. i think you are missing out on a great oppurtunity to get stronger. nobody says that you have to lead 5.12 trad if you are climbing 5.13 in the gym. let me put it this way, i love leading 5.10 trad. it is what i am best at. i feel comfortable, the moves are sometimes thought provoking, but i never feel too stressed out because of the difficulty of the moves or because of endurance. the reason for this is because i worked really hard to get to the point to where i could climb in the upper 5.12 range. i gained better endurance, broadened my skill level to different types of climbing, and gained a ton of experience. all of this has helped me in my trad climbing abilities. i have repdointed up to 5.12a/b on trad and have onsighted many 11's but i don't feel the need to push myself that hard all the time. i still prefer to climb 5.9 and 5.10 trad routes. i think you would benefit from pushing yourself in the gym as much as possible and that would open up so many doors for you for reaching your goals outside.
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sspssp
Feb 28, 2006, 4:09 PM
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In reply to: what's the worry of pushing yourself in the gym?
Injuries. If I'm done for the night, I'm done. I've gotten way to many injuries, chronic and acute (the majority of my time is spent climbing outdoors, the majority of my injuries are from the gym), for somebody to talk trash back at me when I'm ready to quite.
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gmreeves
Feb 28, 2006, 4:44 PM
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o.k. i understand if you quit because you don't want to get injured. i completely agree with that. there is no reason to put yourself out during your training phase due to injury.
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scrimshaw
Feb 28, 2006, 6:11 PM
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Registered: Feb 24, 2006
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I like a partner who pushes me, but this guy sorta sounds like a jerk. When I'm done climbing for the night that is it. Has this guy ever climbed outside?
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boss
Feb 28, 2006, 6:15 PM
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This guy clearly needs to get over himself. .10 trad is a great place to be at in terms of difficulty. Find someone else man.
Boss
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oldrnotboldr
Feb 28, 2006, 6:23 PM
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I would probably use him as a training partner, just to get the ocassional motivational push as needed. For the outdoor rock trips, I would find another partner that is more compatable to be around. Climbing should be for the enjoyment and adventure rather than an ego fest of who can climb harder. Accidents happen that way.
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arnoilgner
Mar 1, 2006, 7:22 PM
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Hello tagaustatoppen,
Everyone wants something different from climbing, even if it is only subtly different. Your partner is your petty tyrant. In other words, he is challenging you to face your own doubts. He's is causing you to assess what you truly want from climbing. This has brought you to this forum. Don't get defensive or offended, rather be thankful. Simply look inside and decide what you want and then voice it to him. If he is giving you a hard time then simply ignore him, let the comments flow over you like water off a duck's back. They don't have to piss you off. He does need to know your seriousness about safety. If you don't want to have him yelling crap about continuing to climb when you don't think you should, then tell him to shut up. Take the opportunity to assess whether or not you would enjoy being pushed sometimes. If so, then tell him how you'd like to be pushed. IE. "Tell me to stay committed, etc."
Safety is the issue so you need clear communications with him in this regard. Ignore the comments, tell him your feeling about his comments, or find another partner.
perhaps this helps?
arno
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tagaustatoppen
Mar 7, 2006, 8:31 AM
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Registered: Dec 16, 2005
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I thank you all for you thoughts. I decided I will find someone else to climb with. He still might come along as a 3rd from time to time. As i have climbed with him more i have learned that he cant climb. Not because he doesn't have the ability but because he wife doesn't like me. that will end a partnership for climbing really quick when you say hey lets go climb and he says my wife wont let me. after several times of this you figure its time to get someone that will be consistent.
I did gave in to his pushing. I didn't want to injure myself and be out for the season but i have been pushing hard and am at the .11+ range again.
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