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muslmutt
Jan 21, 2006, 5:41 PM
Post #26 of 37
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As a 5'7" 165 pound body builder I climbed a lot harder routes than as 5'7" 205 pound bodybuilder. I was happier lighter, maybe 185 will be a good trade off. We'll see. Does this help?
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thurgood
Jan 21, 2006, 6:35 PM
Post #27 of 37
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what it really comes down to, the whole strength to weight ratio thing, is that the more you way, the easier it is to hurt your fingers climbing. The end.
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hillbilly
Jan 23, 2006, 2:16 PM
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Howdy, sounds a lot like Lance Armstrong's story. It would be good to find out where you are in the world of body fat though. You will loose around 10% of muscle per week of bed rest. Lance had stored extra muscle on his frame from his triathlon days, he returned lighter and with a more functional body style. This is certainly your chance to morph yourself into a climbing physique but what are the pecs for. Tim
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blueeyedclimber
Jan 23, 2006, 2:52 PM
Post #29 of 37
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If you want to weight train to improve your climbing, I wouldn't lift all year. I have a couple friends that are pretty good climbers who dedicate a portion of their winter to hitting the weights. They take a little time of from climbing and then work back up to what they were climbing before. It efffects them initially, but they end up feeling stronger. One friend who has been doing this for a few years says it has helped him improve a letter grade each year. Now, if you are talking going from 10a to 10b, then it's not a big difference, but when it's 12c to 12d, then it is.
I personally don't weight train, but I have always had a good weight to strength ratio. I am 5'9'' and weigh about 150. When I was lifting weights (before climbing) I was about 165.
Recently I have been thinking about adding it to my routine, but given my size, it is not as important for me. The heavier you are, usually the more strength is required.
Josh
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can_climber
Jan 24, 2006, 1:23 AM
Post #30 of 37
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I lost about 25 pounds over the past couple months due to an undiagnosed chronic bowel disease. Now I am about 6' and 160. Despite being out of climbing for a month or so, I have come back climbing much harder grades in the gym, but found that the time off has affected my endurance more that my power. I am also worried that adding a trad rack in the spring will affect my now smaller but more efficient muscles.
You should aim for a body mass and physique that you feel healthy with, and let your climbing adjust.
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spitshine
Feb 22, 2006, 4:47 AM
Post #31 of 37
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I've been climbing indoors since last September. I'm 5'8 and my weight fluctuates between 180-200. I'm trying to get down to about 165 with <1% body fat. Right now I've got about 17% body fat, down from 25% a couple weeks ago. I can say that I climb and boulder a full grade higher when I'm closer to 180, which is about v3 or 5.10 as my limit. Outdoors its almost the same, only the routes around here within my range are mostly slabs, which gives me a slight disadvantage.
Anyway, that 10 pounds of muscle could help or harm you, depending on where you put it on. The high end climber with perfected technique better spends his time training in the weight room, almost exclusively on the pulling muscles. Push exercises are useful to prevent injury by helping with antagonistic muscle balance. However, you don't want to gain any mass in areas that you won't need on the wall. A good example of this would be the bench press. Don't work up a savage bench weight, you don't need that on the wall. However, adding muscle weight to your back and shoulders, or your core, could only help.
I've seen some burly, short guys send some mad bad desperate routes.
I don't view my height as a disadvantage either. I don't need to reach that next good jug if my smaller, short fingered hands are strong enough for that minute crimper, and they are :D
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yakiman
Feb 22, 2006, 5:24 AM
Post #32 of 37
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Registered: Jun 16, 2005
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When I started climbing two years ago I was 30 years old, 5'10", and weighed 180lbs. I dropped to about 156lbs. just from calorie restriction and climbing alot. I noticed I felt chronically weak and tired. I had no endurance and had a hard time recovering between routes. I was also catching colds easily. Since this last fall I have been training hard on my basement bouldering cave, increased whole grain consumption, increased water consumption, and faithfully weight trained my "push" muscles. I am currently 165lbs. and a climbing a lot stronger, longer, and recover quickly. I think that each body is different and will tell you when your too thin or carrying too much weight. You just have to listen to it. I can pinch an inch or two around my waist but I feel strong and healthy, so I'm not hell bent on losing 10 more pounds. Strength to weight ratio is one part of the puzzle. Like others have said, technique, time on the rock (or plastic if its 10 degrees outside), and grip strength are all important factors. "How To Climb 5.12" by Horst, has helped me a lot.
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firstchair
Feb 22, 2006, 6:03 AM
Post #33 of 37
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Registered: Oct 20, 2002
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In reply to: ... Before those 3 stones, I weighed about 180. After the surgery, I was down to 155 ... ... I've wanted to put some of my old bulk back on, so I had planned to start lifting weights again and load up on protein, while trying to avoid running and other cardio that makes it harder to gain weight/muscle mass ...
Those are definately some powerful kidney stones - about 8 pounds a piece by my calculation : )
One things for sure... however you choose to put weight back on, I'm pretty sure it won't be by loading up on the food that gave you the stones
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miavzero
Feb 22, 2006, 7:45 AM
Post #34 of 37
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Registered: Oct 8, 2005
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In reply to: I've been climbing indoors since last September. I'm 5'8 and my weight fluctuates between 180-200. I'm trying to get down to about 165 with <1% body fat. Right now I've got about 17% body fat, down from 25% a couple weeks ago. I can say that I climb and boulder a full grade higher when I'm closer to 180, which is about v3 or 5.10 as my limit. Outdoors its almost the same, only the routes around here within my range are mostly slabs, which gives me a slight disadvantage. Anyway, that 10 pounds of muscle could help or harm you, depending on where you put it on. The high end climber with perfected technique better spends his time training in the weight room, almost exclusively on the pulling muscles. Push exercises are useful to prevent injury by helping with antagonistic muscle balance. However, you don't want to gain any mass in areas that you won't need on the wall. A good example of this would be the bench press. Don't work up a savage bench weight, you don't need that on the wall. However, adding muscle weight to your back and shoulders, or your core, could only help. I've seen some burly, short guys send some mad bad desperate routes. I don't view my height as a disadvantage either. I don't need to reach that next good jug if my smaller, short fingered hands are strong enough for that minute crimper, and they are :D |
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jaybro
Feb 22, 2006, 7:55 AM
Post #35 of 37
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Registered: Feb 2, 2005
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In general it seems best to be on the lean side esp for sport/gym/little holds on steep stuff. it matters less for more technique-y stuff like cracks.
Basically though, I'd vote with the Yakima guy; 165/5.10 is in the right range, about where I'm at. ymmv, feeling weak or drained doesn't help. I never climbed my best at my skinniest, though I could do more finger tip pullups then
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blondgecko
Moderator
Feb 22, 2006, 9:24 AM
Post #36 of 37
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Registered: Jul 2, 2004
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6'1", 148 lbs has been my "normal" profile since the age of about 15. Worked my way up to 165 lbs for a while by eating like a pig at every meal, and tore an A2 pulley (didn't completely rupture it, though). Dropped back to 148, and am currently leading as hard as I ever have (about 5.11b).
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jt512
Feb 22, 2006, 4:06 PM
Post #37 of 37
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
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In reply to: In reply to: I've been climbing indoors since last September. I'm 5'8 and my weight fluctuates between 180-200. I'm trying to get down to about 165 with <1% body fat. Right now I've got about 17% body fat, down from 25% a couple weeks ago. I can say that I climb and boulder a full grade higher when I'm closer to 180, which is about v3 or 5.10 as my limit. Outdoors its almost the same, only the routes around here within my range are mostly slabs, which gives me a slight disadvantage. Anyway, that 10 pounds of muscle could help or harm you, depending on where you put it on. The high end climber with perfected technique better spends his time training in the weight room, almost exclusively on the pulling muscles. Push exercises are useful to prevent injury by helping with antagonistic muscle balance. However, you don't want to gain any mass in areas that you won't need on the wall. A good example of this would be the bench press. Don't work up a savage bench weight, you don't need that on the wall. However, adding muscle weight to your back and shoulders, or your core, could only help. I've seen some burly, short guys send some mad bad desperate routes. I don't view my height as a disadvantage either. I don't need to reach that next good jug if my smaller, short fingered hands are strong enough for that minute crimper, and they are :D noob-troll of the year trophy for you. :D
Troll? Yes. Noob? No. This is from an admin, or someone close to one, with a second "troll" account.
Jay
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