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honus
Mar 25, 2006, 11:04 PM
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so i've got an opportunity to go to england this spring, and i'm curious to learn as much as possible about the climbing there. what sort of experiences have people had? is it easy to find places to stay? where are the best spots? how hard is it to find partners? would should i bring? is it worth it? i'm mostly interested in bouldering, but any climbing would be nice. i guess this is akin to the backpacking in europe thread, but perhaps a bit more focused.
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shnobe
Mar 26, 2006, 12:27 AM
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where are you going in England, I lived there for four years and climbed in just about every corner of the country, PM me if you would like to know more.
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phaedrus
Mar 26, 2006, 11:39 PM
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phaedrus moved this thread from General to Regional Discussions.
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herbaltee
Mar 27, 2006, 10:43 AM
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England = whole lotta trad, some sport. Stanage Plantation is where its at for bouldering. And grit hurts your fingers and is better cold.
PM me if you want more info...
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nuvola
Mar 28, 2006, 4:46 PM
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Hi,
I'm English, so here's where you should go, starting from the South and working upwards...!
Cornwall (SW coast), great granite sea cliffs, single to multi pitch
Portland, great limestone sea cliffs...you need to lead VS and above on trad to enjoy (sorry, dont know how to convert that into American grades)
North Wales (snowdonia NP), loads of good stuff...from bouldering to multi pitch routes...sea cliffs to mountains.
Peak District NP, near Sheffield, lots of single pitch grit routes plus bouldering
Lake District NP, loads of great mountain routes and crags lower down
Scotland...how much time have you got?! Amazing stuff all along the West coast...Glencoe, Isle of Skye (Gneiss)....
It's all trad...you need a full rack of nuts, friends, hexs, 60m single or double whatever you pref.
Plenty of campsites, bed and breakfasts, apartments, hostels or hotels near all these places...just go to the main town in the area for info (and guide books), or the tourist info website, or just find one when you get there...wont be hard in spring. try www.ukclimbing.com for more info.
Enjoy! :o)
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herbaltee
Mar 28, 2006, 9:56 PM
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Yeah I would second having a full rack and climbing trad...Remember Brit trad grades are like nothing else in the world. Like a VS 4c is feels more like a 5+ which is like a 5.10. However with the VS the gear is placement is okay.
Its because of this that I know many that are trying to bag an E1 which is like everything in the world. So remember drop down a full European grade and you'll usually be able to climb that in England.
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