|
|
|
|
harvestmoon
Mar 28, 2006, 12:13 AM
Post #1 of 8
(884 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 27, 2006
Posts: 11
|
Hello Fellow Climbers, :D
This is my first post and I'm hoping it's a successful one. My husband and I just started Trad climbing last year and got in about 5-7 lead climbs. We are looking to get our first climb in for the year this Friday. We are looking for relatively easy lead climbs to start the season off with.
We have heard by many that Bark Eater Cliff in Keene, New York is a great place to climb with many varied routes and easy to hard grades. I have the Adirondacks climbing guide and there are many climbs that are at our level.
The only downfall I for see is that it is North facing (from what I hear) so it doesn't get much if any sun. Since it is early in the season I'm not sure if it will be dry and if it will be cold considering that it's mostly shaded. It is supposed to be close to 60 degrees on Friday 8^) and relatively warm and sunny all week so that may help much.
Any suggestions or information on Bark Eater?
Thanks so much for your help.
CLIMB ON!
Heather
|
|
|
|
|
guanoboy
Mar 28, 2006, 12:32 AM
Post #2 of 8
(884 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 2, 2004
Posts: 244
|
two words, da gunks. Its a trad wonderland with hundreds of great 5.3's to 5.11's. Its beautiful, and it will be 10-20 degrees warmer than Keene. Well worth the drive.
|
|
|
|
|
capn_morgan
Mar 28, 2006, 1:12 AM
Post #3 of 8
(884 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 7, 2003
Posts: 565
|
Welcome to the daks...even though Im not living in the area any more it still feels like home. Barkeater has some really nice climbs. I only know of a few under 5.7 and those might be hard to find/dirty/poor pro, not sure since I havent climbed them. Im not sure what you consider easy but the 5.7-8s at barkeater might not be what you had in mind. Where are you guys located? If you are reasonably close to the gunks that is cetainly a great place to tick easy classics. But if you are up in the daks and the weather is nice theres no reason to drive 3-4 hours when theres plenty to do close to home. I know there are a few easy lines at the beerwalls. Let us know what sort of things youve led before so we have a better idea of what your looking for.
In any case, enjoy whatever you end up getting on. :)
Jeremy
|
|
|
|
|
chossmonkey
Mar 28, 2006, 1:40 AM
Post #4 of 8
(884 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 1, 2003
Posts: 28414
|
I don't know what the condition of B.E. Cliff is, but as of last weekend there was still a fair amount of climbable ice on some of the N facing cliffs. I don't think that cliff gets iced up, but it might still be a little on the cool side for rock routes. You might be better to see about climbing on a cliff that gets some sun.
|
|
|
|
|
sbaclimber
Mar 28, 2006, 2:05 AM
Post #5 of 8
(884 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 22, 2004
Posts: 3118
|
From my experiences around Keene, I would have to agree that anything not south/west facing is probably going to be too cold, and possibly icy, to climb. The Beer Walls was a pretty good suggestion, and if my memory serves me right, the Creature Wall ought to be moderately dry as well (and it has some nice 5.6-8ish routes with killer gear).
|
|
|
|
|
phaedrus
Mar 28, 2006, 4:14 AM
Post #6 of 8
(884 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 24, 2002
Posts: 3046
|
phaedrus moved this thread from General to Regional Discussions.
|
|
|
|
|
sustainedclimber
Mar 28, 2006, 4:57 AM
Post #7 of 8
(884 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 9, 2003
Posts: 134
|
For a few easy leads with good pro, check out the Jewels and Gems wall. There are a couple of well protected 5.6's and a PG rated 5.7+. The Daks are great and I think they make you climb harder because nearly everything is sandbagged. Once you go to the Daks, everything else seems like a piece of cake. Enjoy!
-Josh
|
|
|
|
|
harvestmoon
Mar 28, 2006, 12:58 PM
Post #8 of 8
(884 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 27, 2006
Posts: 11
|
I've only lead climbs on rock here in Vermont. I live in Central Vermont and have done lead climbs at Prospect Rock and Lower Bolton Cliffs. The lead climbs that my husband and I have done are around the 5.5-5.6 grade so to start the season off we're looking for climbs in that grade area.
We are about an hour from Keene, NY and about 3-4 hours from the Gunks. I would LOVE to head over to the Gunk's Friday but the weather for Saturday isn't looking good and it would really be a haul unless we made a couple days out of it. However it is awfully tempting to get in the car and go Thursday night and have all day Friday to climb in the Gunk's, especially from all that I have heard about it, it may be worth it.
But if we could find something sweet to climb in Keene or the Lake Placid area, somewhere closer, that would be best.
Any other suggestions are very appreciated.
CLIMB ON! :D
Heather
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
