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ovet
Mar 30, 2006, 4:58 AM
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I'm about to buy a new pair of shoes, i don't want to spend a lot of money, i have been climbing for a year. the last ones i bought were an acopa, but i heard the evolv were good, and as my second pair i think could be a good choice, but...
i cant seem to find a good difference between this 2 models, kaos and delfy, I'm planning on climb 5.10d and 5.11 in four or six months since now, I'm climbing like 10a and 10.b now....
So please, i really want some advice about this 2 models..
ill appreciate your answers!!!
:wink:
climbing FOR and TO LIVE!!!
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musicman1586
Mar 30, 2006, 5:25 AM
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The Kaos is a great shoe, similar to the Anasazi Velcro but better fit on my feet (no painful Achilles jabbing). The Defy is more of a beginner's shoe, a very good and durable one at that, but I personally think the Kaos is a far better performance shoe.
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fleshwater
Mar 30, 2006, 6:24 AM
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I agree with musicman1586. The defy is nice, but more of an all-arounder. The Kaos is hardcore sport, and the newest models (this year and last) are awesome. I use them up to 12aish and they work fantastic. My only complaint was that they wore down a little quick in the gym, but resole was cheap and very quick.
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slacklinejoe
Mar 30, 2006, 4:41 PM
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Those two shoes are very different. The Defy is advertised as an all day ultra comfortable trad shoe. If your looking for harder climbs the Kaos is most likely more suitable for the job. Be sure and check out the rest of hte new lineup from Evolv while your at it.
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stratman05
Mar 30, 2006, 5:20 PM
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In reply to: I agree with musicman1586. The defy is nice, but more of an all-arounder. The Kaos is hardcore sport, and the newest models (this year and last) are awesome. I use them up to 12aish and they work fantastic. My only complaint was that they wore down a little quick in the gym, but resole was cheap and very quick.
The defy are a great shoe. Before some of the newer models came out, the "big" sponsored climbers had the defy and predators.
The Kaos are not a "hardcore" sport shoe. They are a velcro shoe that can be worn on any types of climbing.
I've climbed 5.8 slab in the predator. I've bouldered V8 roof in the Bandit (trad shoe).
The downturned shoes suck on slab...but they were not designed for slab climbing.
Get what fits your feet the best and feels the most comforatble. What works for one person doesn't always work for the other. Don't buy into the hype of a shoe. Use what feels comfortable for you.
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chalkfree
Mar 30, 2006, 5:28 PM
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Look dude, the kaos are not a good shoe for anything but sport or bouldering, the right fit just makes them uncomfortable for long time wear.
As to Stratman's useless comment, not only can I send v4 in chacos, I find it entertaining to do so. But it is not something I would tell a person who's looking for advice on shoes.
You can certainly climb 11's in both shoes. If you spend alot of time on overhangs I'd recommend the Kaos, if you're more into cracks or slab go with the defy. If you like to mix it up alot, the defy is probly the best choice. The Kaos is really a shoe that serves well on oververt and really thin vert, it's too specialized for much else. Like forget climbing a crack in it.
Good luck.
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stratman05
Mar 30, 2006, 5:33 PM
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haha...that's actually a really funny comment. You made my day.
Don't listen to me at all...I know nothing. I wasn't a Product Specialest (or still a sponsored climbing) with Evolv. Don't listen to anything I say.
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ovet
Apr 4, 2006, 10:58 PM
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thank you to all
i think I'm gonna buy the defy, but if i start climbing hard 11's and 12's i will buy the kaos.....
it help me a LOT
cya, keep falling..... or not. 8^)
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caughtinside
Apr 4, 2006, 11:11 PM
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I don't know what chalkfree is talking about, the kaos is a good all around velcro shoe, provided they fit your feet. Yes, they are good on steep face and overhangs. But, they are also quite good on slab, and also work in cracks. They are not what I'd call an 'aggressive shoe.' but they climb well.
No experience with those other ones. Good luck.
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fluxus
Apr 11, 2006, 12:57 AM
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A bit late but, I've seen folks climbing at all different styles and levels in both shoes you are considering, so I would be a little weary of comments suggesting that a shoe has only one use. A shoe may be designed with a use in mind but different climbers have different tastes and will use the shoes how they see fit.
That being said, if you are really into climbing and can see yourself climbing steeper and harder routes I suggest jumping right into the Preadator, Agro, or Talon. These shoes are just amazing. The last is excellent and I think you will find they feel more stable on small hold than the other shoes that do not have the down turned last. The Preadator is my main shoe and I really love it.
One thing to note is that Evolv sizing is a bit different from other companies, I used to go down 2 - 3 shoe sizes in leather shoes, but Evolvs do not stretch and they are cut a little small to boot, so I find that I am wearing about 1/2 size smaller than my street shoe size and getting excellent performance.
Finally, buy more than one pair of climbing shoes! If you are serious about climbing get 3 pairs: one mellow pair for warming up & endurance routes, one training pair for the gym and working routes, one rad pair, great fit, high performance for red pointing, onsights, competitions, hard bouldering.
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hillbillywannabe
Apr 13, 2006, 5:41 PM
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what about the new evolv shoes? has anyone tried them? the "evo" looks promising.
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bustloose
Apr 13, 2006, 6:18 PM
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the Rave is a better, softer version of the Rage.
the Talon is just plain super bad ass, it's the Agro with laces and a slightly different fit.
the Evo looks to be a slightly less sensitive Kaos, more of an all round shoe...
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sul-pont
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Apr 13, 2006, 6:45 PM
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I have both of these shoes, and they work well for me for different purposes.
The Defy's are really comfortable and fairly sensitive -- meaning not too stiff -- and you can "feel" things through the sole. I like to wear these in the gym when I'm training because I can keep them on for long periods while doing drills, laps, etc.
For performance, I like stiffer shoes so I have the Kaos with the stiff midsole option. I use these for when it's time to get down to business, that is, redpoints and boulder problems. Kaos's are also pretty comfy, as climbing shoes go, but not as much as the Defy, which has a lightly padded interior.
FWIW, I also have the Bandit's (terrific stiff shoe for trad or when you need to edge like there is no tomorrow) and the Quest's (very comfortable for easy multi-pitch, can leave them on all day long).
As Fluxus mentioned, check out Evolv's website for sizing info. I find that the size I wear in street shoes, or a half-size down, works really well. Brian is very helpful in getting you the shoes that you will like. Give Evolv a call and see what they say.
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ovet
Apr 15, 2006, 5:45 PM
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looks like there's a lot of shoes (evolv) and last minute i didn't buy the shoes, so i came back and see there's a lot of discussion, i do think 3 pairs of shoes looks the better answer to my question....
i probably get the defy and jump over the agro or something better, still the kaos looks like and intermediate between this 2, so if i can get more money this month buy 2.... jeje hope so..... 8^)
i used a tight shoes now, i used 7.5 street (mexico size) and wear a 6.5 acopa, and now a 6 acopa, so what i heard is that i should buy a 7 defy or whatever evolv=¡??? :?:
thanks again :o
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gamehendge
Apr 15, 2006, 8:00 PM
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KAOS + DEFYS = EVO.
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sul-pont
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Apr 15, 2006, 8:35 PM
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In reply to: KAOS + DEFYS = EVO.
I haven't climbed in the Evos but I think they are stiffer than both the Kaos and the Defy. From what I understand they are sized a little more generously than the Kaos (a little bigger) for a more comfortable fit. Any other feedback from folks who have climbed in Evos?
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grimpiperx
Apr 15, 2006, 8:53 PM
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In reply to: haha...that's actually a really funny comment. You made my day. Don't listen to me at all...I know nothing. I wasn't a Product Specialest (or still a sponsored climbing) with Evolv. Don't listen to anything I say.
Evolv sponsors 290 something people.....Downturned shoes are good for edgy slab, they just hurt.
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redpoint73
May 2, 2006, 5:35 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: KAOS + DEFYS = EVO. I haven't climbed in the Evos but I think they are stiffer than both the Kaos and the Defy. From what I understand they are sized a little more generously than the Kaos (a little bigger) for a more comfortable fit. Any other feedback from folks who have climbed in Evos?
Right, thicker midsole than the Kaos and Defy. And more rubber coverage over the toes (and grooves for more grab) for toe jams.
I just got a pair a few weeks ago. I have used them in the gym, and once outside for sport, but not trad yet. I may have sized them a bit too small for what I wanted (all day trad). I still hope the stiffness will at least help me on toe and foot jams. Maybe they will break in a bit.
They are asymmetric, and seem to have a bit of camber to them, so they won't be quite as all-day comfy as a pair of symmetric, flat shoes. They will not stretch much, since all Evolv shoes are synthetic, and the Evos are also lined.
I was pretty stoked when I found out about them. I think they are the only velcro shoes on the market specifically designed for trad. We'll see how they work out.
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krusher4
May 2, 2006, 7:11 PM
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Remember it is not you who is climbing hard it is your shoes.... :lol:
they also define you as a person to the climbing community so make sure whatever you have on was in the last Rock and Ice.
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