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djax


Jun 26, 2002, 2:06 PM
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At the gym I go to "Planet Rock" there are over 50 ropes. They usually have at least one route per rope. Since there hasn't been a comp recently, some of the ropes have up to four taped routes and I think it's awesome! They add about 4 to 6 new routes per week. See => http://planet-rock.com/terrainer/aa/?action=view_all_climbs


tahquitztwo


Jun 27, 2002, 6:38 PM
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I climb at several gyms (PG-Santa Clara and Belmont, Rocknasium and Granite Arch)...each uses a different methodology of marking...tape vs color coded holds...I find the color coded holds easier to track once I'm above them and looking for feet ...because it seems no matter how a gym tries, the tape always seems to disappear; however, I use a gym only to keep in shape so when I get confused, I make my own routes....outdoor climbing is sooo much better


jansuw


Jun 27, 2002, 7:02 PM
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I've set a few routes myself and i prefer being able to just stick on tape and then filling out the spots i need holds in with holds. That way I don't have to put up all new holds for my route. Also if you have to use certain color holds, a hole that you want to put a hold in might be taken! How you gonna deal with that

Today I was climbing at a gym and the holds were old and sometimes I did use a hold I shouldn't have because the color was so faded I couldn't tell, only coming down i realised my saving hold wasn't part of the route. I also agree that with one route per rope it is a lot easier to challenge yourself, but you should have the willpower to stay on the right color.

For competitions, we usually take off all extra holds, as then people will fall instead of cheating. Cheating is bad, falling is part of the game.

If profit and space weren't issues i'd prefer one route per rope because... i just like it, but for obvious reasons that isn't done...


freakontr


Jun 27, 2002, 7:56 PM
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Quote:
"Mission Cliffs and the other Touchstone gyms used tape, Planet Granite used color coded holds, and I can say with certainty that I much preferred the tape. Then again, maybe I just hated the tendon-popping holds at PG..."

I think color coded holds is the way to go. The problem with taped route is that the way the tape is position (underneath the hold). Looking down and try to find a foot hold is always a pain. I climb at Planet Granite and those "tendon-popping holds" seems fine to me. Besides I prefer the natural features on the walls at PG to the flat walls at Touchstone gyms.
One route, one rope is great. But it seems limited on the number of routes that can be set.


svilnit


Jul 7, 2002, 4:58 PM
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Earthtreks in columbia maryland has an interesting concept... they have one gym that is going to be all top rope, and another much larger gym for bouldering and lead climbing. Check out their website
www.earthtreksclimbing.com


funky


Jul 16, 2002, 4:45 AM
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since im a bigginer i find it really tempting to cheat at the gym because there is always a perfect hand or foot hold in the perfect spot but its the wrong color. so i think instead of straining my self i could take the easy way out and just use it. (i like things to be easy and convienent)


as you guys say just my 2 cents


wildtrail


Jul 16, 2002, 5:44 AM
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Well, though I'm not into gyms at all, I have been to the one in my area a couple of times. It is, I guess as you called it, "warehouse style". Routes all over with corresponding tape to use to follow specific routes. As high as 35 feet, a couple of overhangs, and a bouldering area.

Steve


carnaged


Jul 23, 2002, 4:00 AM
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Our gym, here in Kelowna, has many routes, definately more than one per rope. We use colored tape.


Kat


arsenalcrater


Jul 23, 2002, 4:53 AM
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OUCH....I had a pretty funny rant....had my roomates curled up in little balls pissin' themselves...got booted off of the ol' "reliable" DSL server....The moment is now lost. Maybe I can find another thread that will make others who read react as my roomates are doing. Sorry to deprive all of you of some pretty sick, funny and witty stuff. Oh Well......ON BELAY!!!


gakin


Aug 22, 2002, 3:14 PM
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I've climbed OKC Rocks, and I love it. New Heights in Tulsa is a basic gym set...three or so routes per rope. I do prefer OKC to Tulsa any day.


elmosity


Aug 22, 2002, 3:53 PM
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I have been to a fair share of gyms throughout the country and have done some route setting. I think it soemtimes comes down to what you become comfortable with. At Rocknasium tape is used and there are many different routes per route. When I went to Planet Granite the color coded rock confused em a bit. I will say from a setter perspective using tape is better (for me at least) unless you have an unlimeted number of holds. Ithe flexibilty of looking for a type of hold rather than be restricted by color. Just as someone said... outdoor climbing is where it's at.


xen_monkey


Aug 22, 2002, 4:06 PM
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I was at Vertical Reality a while back and they have two routes per rope colour coded. And I found both routes usually really good. They're route setters were great. The routes were well thought out, with a goof mix of blind alleys thrown in. Though all their routes are unrated and if you bother to ask they'll just say its a 5.9 because there's no point in rating indoor climbs


aarong


Aug 22, 2002, 4:37 PM
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Great, pushfurther, now look what you've started!
I was one of the route setters at OKC Rocks when the gym first opened. I worked there for a year. Let me tell you...even one route per rope was a LOT of work. The walls are concrete 110 feet tall. Setting a route meant drilling hundreds of 1/2" holes with a hammer drill, setting the drop-ins, and then hauling dozens of holds up to arrange them in a sequence. The amount of work for a 100 foot route on concrete walls starting from scratch is much more than route setters at most gyms would ever take on. Believe me, many people offered to set routes at first, but once they found out what was involved, they wanted nothing to do with it. It was great training for big wall climbing. The benefit of setting such a route is huge though...especially if you love setting routes. Because when it's all finished, you have an incredible line with so many places to make people fall. I set a 110' pocket route once (it's still there of course), all drilled...talk about a lot of work!

Now that I set routes at New Heights in Tulsa the walls are much shorter but the style is also much different. We used colored tape, and lots of it. We keep the routes updated, they change about every 2-3 weeks, and it keeps people motivated. The route setting is SO much easier.

Still looking forward to setting again at OKC Rocks...the holes have already been drilled, all you have to do now is fill them.


xanx


Aug 22, 2002, 5:16 PM
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although i am relatively new to the climbing scene, i am a total gym rat so i think my opinion might have some weight...

i go to Vertical Reality in Cherry Hill, NJ. Here, there are about 3-4 routes per rope, someimes just 2, sometimes up to 6
anyway, the routes are all marked with tape, start and finish with 2 pieces of tape. Some are named, almost none have grades, so i have no idea what i can climb... someone tried grading them once and gave EVERYTHING either a 5.8 or 5.9. anyway, it generally works out OK except when some idiot strips a wall to set up new routes, sometimes they inadvertaintly take holds off of routes from the adjacent walls... it also sucks when the tape comes off (best example: a 5.9 had a huge jug over an overhang. Someone wanted that hold for a boulder problem, so he exchanged it with a foot chip... suddenly it seems a lot more like a 5.11c or something... )

i think one route per rope would suck unless the gym is HUGE.

mike


katydid


Aug 22, 2002, 7:44 PM
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My gym (Higher Ground, Kitchener, ON, Canada) has between 1 and 3 routes per rope, depending on what wall you're on. The "baby" wall (all 5.4-5.6 stuff) is one rope per route; same with the "intermediate" wall (up to about 5.9+); and the "advanced" wall tends to be 1 rope to 2-3 routes, as well as some bolts for sport, which no-one seems to use in spite of their being there.

Bouldering problems are taped off all over the place. I'm partially colourblind, so I know that some routes are colour-coded; others, I'm not so sure about -- they're either a mix or in my colourblind range, I'm not sure which.

Kate


terrainerist


Aug 25, 2002, 1:58 PM
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Planet Rock has up to a few routes per spot. They also have a rating on what the climb would be using all holds.

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