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amd618
Apr 18, 2006, 3:15 PM
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convex vs. 20 deg overhang
the question is which is greater for training purposes for overall core strength as well as technique enhancement. (or route possibilities). what do YOU think?
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lowballin
Apr 18, 2006, 11:48 PM
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Im a fan of slacklineing it targets all your core musles and then some and its fun as hell
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amd618
Apr 19, 2006, 10:43 PM
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your right, slacklining is a great way to train, and is really fun. but anyone have an opinion on my question of convex v. 20 deg? (people with an actual knowledge of good training techniques please)
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styndall
Apr 19, 2006, 10:48 PM
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By convex, do you mean a wall that bulges, so the angle is varied?
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amd618
Apr 19, 2006, 10:57 PM
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yes, convex being multiple different faces (3) of varying angles to acheive a bulged feel
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styndall
Apr 19, 2006, 11:51 PM
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If I were building a training wall, I'd stick to either a single 45 degree panel or use several panels to create a concave wall, with perhaps a vert section to a 45 degree overhang to a roof.
Bulgy climbing requires more specific techniques much of the time, and I think it's less fun than a straight overhang or a roof. If you build it so it's more enjoyable, you'll use it more.
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sidepull
Apr 20, 2006, 12:28 AM
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I'm not sure why you're asking. So I'll make some assumptions which may or may not help.
Potential reasons for convex:
1 - many boulders start out steep or bulge but end with a more vertical section.
2 - variety is good and perhaps more challenging than the same angle.
3 - i can make a wall that's convex and that provides aesthetic pleasure and/or a sense of pride
4 - all of the above.
Potential reasons for a consistent angle:
1 - when training, it's easier to judge progress and to make problems consistently hard if one of the variables is isolated. By having a standard angle you have achieved this isolation and thereby made it easier to judge improvements.
2 - traditionally, most people have built their home walls at a single angle. This maybe because it's more effective or because they were cheap. At any rate, the standard training sites/gurus (Gresham, Horst, Moon, etc.) all advocate a single angle for training boards. Is this because it's better or tradition - who knows?
I'd go with the single angle wall. It may be a bit more boring in design, but I think it will provide you with more measurable gains and you technique for handling bulges shouldn't deteriorate too much.
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claramie
Apr 20, 2006, 1:41 AM
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I am by no meas an expert. I've never even built a wall or done serious training.
From what I read and hear from others, I would think that a straight angle is the "greater training value". If you use hit strips and campus boards as examples, they are usually on continual angle walls. When you do the same motion to the same exact hold over and over in sequence, you really focus your workout and build strength.
Like others have mentioned, if you mean having fun climbing on your home wall, then a convex might be cooler.
Personally, I really want to get on hit strips for 6 weeks, adding weight progressively and see what gains I get.
CL
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jimpanzee
Apr 20, 2006, 2:15 AM
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Here's a picture of my convex wall and my beagle
http://img482.imageshack.us/...7885/homewall2kr.jpg
I chose to make it convex because I love overhangs and I read in a guide to building climbing walls that it's too easy to rest on concave walls. Even though most of my problems only have 4-5 moves, it's really great for rainy days and the long winters. I used to have a 60 degree wall and it got boring really fast. It just wasn't interesting.
Jim
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wrbill
Apr 20, 2006, 3:49 AM
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I have fond that having a wall that has roofs and angles that are greater then 20 Degs are the best. The wall that I built works great for me. You can see pics of my wall at the link below.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/topic/110078
Bill
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collegekid
Apr 21, 2006, 5:58 AM
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More overhang = harder, better workout.
I had a 60 deg overhanging woodie underneath a staircase for a while...it got me pretty strong, and was much less boring than a hangboard.
I agree with a single angle. I would go with about 45 degrees, as it forces you to use abs a lot, while still allowing smaller holds to be used (anything steeper basically needs jugs). If it's not overhanging enough, it's going to be (more) difficult to create hard moves that don't involve painfully small holds.
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gunkiemike
Apr 22, 2006, 3:13 PM
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In reply to: Im a fan of slacklineing it targets all your core musles and then some and its fun as hell
And it develops mad lockoff and crimping strength. I finally started doing one finger pullups after I got into slacklining.
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