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What is the ultimate unclimbed face in N. America?
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marcel


Aug 23, 2002, 10:39 PM
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What is the ultimate unclimbed face in N. America?
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What do you think is the ultimate unclimbed face in North America, and most likely to be the last unclimbed face. Iím voting for the 6000í north face of the Devilís Thumb.


stevematthys


Aug 23, 2002, 11:10 PM
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What is the ultimate unclimbed face in N. America? [In reply to]
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there is absolutely tons to stuff in colorado waiting to be climbed.


marcel


Aug 23, 2002, 11:17 PM
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Hey Steve,
What would you say the BIG unclimbed face in Colorado is? And why has it not been climbed?


bigwalling


Aug 23, 2002, 11:49 PM
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Thanks marcel now I know what I want to do after I graduate. I can't beleive that thing is unclimbed.


atg200


Aug 27, 2002, 3:22 PM
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There is not a big unclimbed face in Colorado. There are plenty of obscure and kinda chossy routes left to do in the mountains, some killer climbing at secret areas, and plenty of room for more squeeze jobs all over the front range.

Its got to be Alaska. Probably something on Kichatna Spire.


marcel


Aug 27, 2002, 3:43 PM
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Kichatna Spire is most impressive, but I'll stick with the North Face of the Devil's Thumb. ( I keep editing trying to get a photo of the North Face to link.)

CLICK ON THE WAVE TO SEE THE IMAGE




[ This Message was edited by: marcel on 2002-08-27 13:11 ]

[ This Message was edited by: marcel on 2002-08-27 13:12 ]


brianthew


Aug 27, 2002, 4:19 PM
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I'd agree to the north face on Devil's Thumb, but as atg200 said Kichatna packs a wallop; it has an unclimbed south face. But I say the Devil's Thumb face is smoother and not nearly as broken, and is alot higher that the Kichatna S face.



jer


Aug 27, 2002, 4:41 PM
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WHERE IS DEVILS THUMB?
ALASKA AS WELL?


marcel


Aug 27, 2002, 7:55 PM
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Yes the Devil's Thumb is located near Petersburg, Alaska, in southeast Alaska, or the panhandle.


woodse


Aug 27, 2002, 8:11 PM
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Here's a link:

http://www.mistyfjordsair.com/images/devilsthumb.jpg

Impressive indeed.....

woodsE


Partner jammer


Aug 27, 2002, 8:36 PM
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That's cccccccooolllddd!


marcel


Aug 27, 2002, 8:45 PM
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woodse cool link. That's the west face only about half as high as the north face.



Partner polarwid


Aug 27, 2002, 9:18 PM
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The North Face is the one in the shadow on the other side of the "Cat's Ears".


brianthew


Aug 27, 2002, 10:02 PM
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If any of you want more info on the Devil's Thumb, I suggest the essay "The Devil's Thumb" by Jon Krakaur (pre-Into Thin Air). It's about his solo of the Thumb, although not by its north face (which he did attempt, but was defeated). It's in his anthology "Eiger Dreams" and a book called "Epic."


bradhill


Aug 27, 2002, 10:54 PM
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I doubt the north face of Mt. Huntington will ever be climbed. It's wicked. 6000' of nearly vertical, fluted, gargoyled snow with hanging glaciers and seracs. Sick sick sick.


Partner polarwid


Aug 27, 2002, 11:08 PM
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I am taking a little vote here...

Should I move this thread to ALPINE and ICE, or leave it here in TRAD. Seems to me that most of these walls are VERY alpine...


marcel


Aug 27, 2002, 11:58 PM
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polarwid you are right it should more than likely be in Alpine and Ice. Sorry, I put it in the wrong place.


Partner polarwid


Aug 28, 2002, 12:04 AM
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NO PROBLEM...
Show me moving it, I don't get to do much moderating in the TRAD or A&I forums cause most of us are so SMART and WELL-BEHAVED, at least in the forums we are!

You guys should come up to Eagle River and check out the North Face of Polar Bear Peak, only about 5000 feet of unconsolidated schist and other typical Chugach hazards!!!


marcel


Aug 28, 2002, 3:14 PM
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polarwid,
Thanks but no thanks on 5000 feet of unconsolidated schist, but I would love to do some stuff up in your way. Each time I'm in the Anchorage area I drool over the long ridges in the Chugach Mnts. Looks like great snowshoing country on top!
Hope more of you climbers out there give us more ideas on the ultimate unclimbed face in N. America!


hacksaw


Jul 9, 2004, 4:58 PM
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North Face of Mount Huntington was climbed.... [In reply to]
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In reply to:
I doubt the north face of Mt. Huntington will ever be climbed. It's wicked. 6000' of nearly vertical, fluted, gargoyled snow with hanging glaciers and seracs. Sick sick sick.

Actualy, the North face of Mount Huntington was climbed in 1978, by Simon McCartney and Jack Roberts. Their line is to the right of your photo. Check it out in the 1979 AAJ Page 70-80. I looked at their route from across the glaciar on P11,300. It looks like a very hard route with lots of objective danger... :shock: As far as I know its the only route on the true North face of Mount Huntington.
Cheers,
Halsted


hacksaw


Jul 9, 2004, 9:40 PM
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Corection [In reply to]
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OOPS! Make that, that their line is to the LEFT, of the photo displayed here. :oops:


scottcody


Jul 9, 2004, 10:09 PM
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Re: Corection [In reply to]
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Would you guys consider Baffin Island a part of North America?

I'm pretty sure that place hasn't been climbed out yet


Partner coldclimb


Jul 9, 2004, 10:20 PM
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I'm sure there's hundreds of peaks out there with huge faces that haven't been climbed. We can't have done EVERYTHING yet. As far as biggest unclimbed though, I have no clue, but the Devil's Thumb is probably a good bet. ;)

Edit: wow, this thread is old. :lol:


the_antoon


Jul 9, 2004, 10:34 PM
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What is the ultimate unclimbed face in North America? [In reply to]
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Holy crap...this thread is reeeeaaaalllllly old!!!

Anyway, whoever dug it up, good job.

And without a doubt...Devil's Thumb.


scotto


Jul 9, 2004, 10:55 PM
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Mt. Rushmore - home of the NOSE

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