mwintroath
Apr 26, 2006, 12:13 AM
Post #1 of 1
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Registered: Apr 25, 2006
Posts: 4
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Well Madflash,
You message reflects the opinions of a lot of climbers in Arkansas, mine included. I live in Little Rock and have been climbing in Arkansas for over 18 years now. I started climbing at Sams Throne in 1988 and quit going there a few years later because of all the traffic back then. Years later and after me and others helped established many other areas, some still secret, I have come back to the throne to escape the crowds at Horseshoe and other areas. I agree with you that Sams needs a major overhaul or more people are going to get hurt like at Cave Creek recently. A lot of bolts and anchors need to be replace. I am a trad climber at heart and climb trad mostly, but I also love to sport climb to keep strong. Personally I can't understand how anyone can just clip bolts and be satisfied. But I have common sense and most of the bolts at Sams and surrounding areas are crap. Sport climbing is a sport and should be safe for everyone to enjoy. If you want to do something bold there are plenty of hard trad routes to jump on. I have been a pretty low key climber my whole life but now issues are coming up that I can't ignore. Mainly the establishment of new lines at Sams. If someone is going to put up a new sport line then it should by done correctly on rappel if you can. If it is too steep than put it up on lead. I've done it both ways. I don't know how one group of climbers can set the standards on how everyone else should climb. Especially from people who don't live here and pay Arkansas taxes. Now I don't advocate bolting up already established lines that were done years ago on gear. Although a few gear routes I put up got bolted later on. More specifically Angst at Cave Creek that was bolted by Frisbe years after I did on gear after spending five months climbing hard scary routes in England. But does it bother me. No. Why doesn't it bother me. Because I not whiny sensitive b----. I climb for myself and nobody else. In fact I kinda like that people bolt up routes that I did first on gear. For one, everyone can enjoy it and if they ask I can say I did it years before on gear. Also, did I b---- when folks from Missouri an OK rename mine and Rich McDudes routes in the Outback that we put up years before anyone was even climbing there. No. Did I b---- when the same folks rename Fountain Red, Fraggle Rock and then preceded to renamed most of the boulder problems that our group put up. No. Why, Because I am not a Whiny sensitive b----. I mean there are a lot more things in this world to be mad about that someone rap bolting an unestablished line at Sams Throne. At least you are not a Gay Black Midget. Now that person would have something to b---- about. Also, I don't understand how someone can bolt a crack and be upset about rap bolting. It makes no sense. Personally I think it's ego. But, I use to be a hard core traditionalist but my opinion and attitude has change in my 18 years of rock climbing. Basically what I am trying to say is, it is called sport climbing for a reason. It is a sport. And if you are putting up a sport climbing then you should put it up for others not for yourself. If you want to put up a route for you ego. Then put up a hard scary trad line. That's what I do. So anyway, that my two cents. Love it or leave it. If it feels good then do it.
Mike Wintroath
aka Mike the Dude
aka Ike (hot spring county)
aka Maigi
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