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zetedog
May 1, 2006, 11:13 PM
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Much anticipated, finally delivered
Gendarme had two huge boxes of them.
Good: Tony used Yellow to denote routes on the b/w photos, not the crappy red
Good: added the gunks style PG,G,R,X gear ratings
Good: added hand drawn topos.
Mixed: some of the "sandbagged" routes were regraded. Probably most notable is candy corner, bumped from a 5.5 to a 5.6.
Don't know when availability to other sources will be available.
ToddE.
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up_for_a_good_time
May 2, 2006, 12:03 AM
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does this thing have any better beta and/or description about the route than the old book? that would be helpful.
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markc
May 2, 2006, 12:13 AM
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In reply to: Mixed: some of the "sandbagged" routes were regraded. Probably most notable is candy corner, bumped from a 5.5 to a 5.6.
I love that the number of Seneca 5.6s I've climbed has increased while I've been on the couch. If it was the identical guide with the routes switched from red to yellow, it would still be worthwhile to buy a copy.
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prusik123
May 2, 2006, 3:07 AM
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I am pretty psyched about this new guidebook. I haven't seen it yet, but I have the old one and have had a hell of a time making out the red markings on the route pictures. Anyone else think some of the route lines are next to impossible to make out....? Then again, it did add to the adventure that is Seneca...
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buckyllama
May 2, 2006, 12:53 PM
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Just picked up the guide this weekend. It's fantastic.
The pics and route descriptions are much clearer. The addition of some hand drawn topos is a good thing.
The protection ratings are also wonderful and I think will be a great thing for anyone pushing their limits there.
The overall organization of the book is better, with approaches to the different sections described better.
Many of the routes now have individual pitch ratings. This is a good thing there because it's common to mix and match pitches between the various ledges.
Overall I'm very impressed. The old guide was almost useless, this new one is close to the best I've used. Well worth the cash.
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bobruef
May 2, 2006, 1:46 PM
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Anyone got any info on any more re-gradings in the new guidebook?
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tradmanclimbs
May 2, 2006, 2:11 PM
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The old guide was fine!!! the red lines sucked but we found our way arround as total newcomers. STFU you whiners :D That dosent mean that improvements are not appreciated It is just silly to hear someone call the old guide usless!!! Although we couldn't make out the red squiggles if you can READ you should have no problem finding your way arround :? Totaly Psyced to see some of the new rateings :D Is Bannana still a 5.6? I bet they would have a few less rescue calls if they were a bit more accurate on the easy climbs. calling a 5.7 a 5.4 is a pretty good way to kill a noob :roll:
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sidelclimbing
May 2, 2006, 2:28 PM
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I hope the route description for Dirty Old Man's has been corrected. Bill Webster had it right in older versions, but Tony published the description for Frosted Flake pitch 2 as Dirty Old Man's pitch 2.
In fact, many of the East side climbs from Broadway Ledge could be improved/clarified.
Candy Corner a 6??? It was my definition of 5.5! I've found that as I get older what used to be easy has become harder for me. I suspect that may be happening to Barnes and Webster.
Phil Sidel
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microbarn
May 2, 2006, 2:37 PM
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Registered: May 12, 2004
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Seems as though everything is good news. I already called the Gendarme to reserve a copy when I go down for Cinco de Mayo. As of last night, Exkursion said they are expecting their shipment in about a week.
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emilb
May 2, 2006, 2:45 PM
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Bill's still climbing pretty hard these days even if he is an AARP member now.
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