|
incubi81
Apr 30, 2006, 6:08 AM
Post #1 of 20
(4067 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 1, 2004
Posts: 10
|
Hey,
I am trying to figure out what some of the hardest crack climbs are around Utah, or anywhere in the west. I was also wondering if any one had any info on the route "No Way Jose" around the Lake Powell area. I am looking for single pitch routes, but will take any info on multi-pitch as well.
Here are some that I know of:
*Tricks... 5.13a, Belly... 5.13a, Six Star 5.13a, or any of those hard cracks at Indian Creek.
*Trench Warfare 5.12d, Fallen Arches 5.13a, of Little Cottonwood.
*Mystery Splitter 5.13b/c, and an Unknown 5.13, at Capitol Reef.
*Moonlight Buttress 5.13a, and some of those other recently freed routes, at Zion.
|
|
|
|
|
blakester
Apr 30, 2006, 12:23 PM
Post #2 of 20
(4067 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 20, 2004
Posts: 142
|
City Park, Index, WA
5.13something
|
|
|
|
|
crackmd
Apr 30, 2006, 2:29 PM
Post #3 of 20
(4067 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 24, 2002
Posts: 444
|
Star Walls Crack 5.13-Donner Summit
Phoenix 5.13-Yosemite Valley
Grand Illusion 5.13-Sugarloaf (Placerville, Ca)
The Pirate 5.12c-Suicide Rock (you'll curse the grade)
The Acid Crack 5.13-Jtree
|
|
|
|
|
camhead
Apr 30, 2006, 3:55 PM
Post #4 of 20
(4067 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
|
Equalizer, 13a, Paradise Forks. Although it is more a stemming-facey route than a pure crack climb.
Also Pyromania 13a at The Needles.
Also, classic hard cracks not quite on topic are Boogyman 14a, City of Rocks, and Welcome to Ole Kentuck 13a, Red River Gorge.
|
|
|
|
|
labrat0065
Apr 30, 2006, 4:11 PM
Post #5 of 20
(4067 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 6, 2004
Posts: 122
|
welcome to old kentucky, 13a, pebbel beach crag at the red
|
|
|
|
|
blitzkrieg_climber13
Apr 30, 2006, 5:37 PM
Post #6 of 20
(4067 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 22, 2005
Posts: 288
|
im not quite sure of the names. but there are 2 5.13 cracks at indian creek in return to sender.
The Optimator-5.13 ring locks
Ruby's Cafe-5.13 fingers
Air Sweden-5.13R fingers to arete and fingers, back to fingers/hands
From Switzerland With Love-5.13+R super hard overhung fingers and face with a crazy toe hook move.
Those are all in Return to Sender and all in Indian Creek. good luck if you try and get on any of em. they all look like 5.wtfpwnedurassn00b hard.
|
|
|
|
|
flamer
Apr 30, 2006, 5:43 PM
Post #7 of 20
(4067 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 2955
|
In reply to: *Moonlight Buttress 5.13a,
It's only given 5.13a for the onsight.
Anaconda on Twin Owls at Lumpy Ridge, RMNP.
josh
|
|
|
|
|
jeremy11
Apr 30, 2006, 6:33 PM
Post #8 of 20
(4067 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 28, 2004
Posts: 597
|
bridge buttress roof crack, new river gorge
|
|
|
|
|
ryanb
Apr 30, 2006, 7:35 PM
Post #9 of 20
(4067 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 4, 2004
Posts: 832
|
Isn't the full desert gold at red rocks 13a? (upper handcrack section is 11 something?)
City park is usually called 13b or c but there is some debate as to weather it's seen a proper redpoint...also, at times it can be quite greasy.
There is at least one 13 something crack at squamish (across the highway from murin park) and probably others but I can't remember any names.
|
|
|
|
|
asendr
Apr 30, 2006, 8:47 PM
Post #10 of 20
(4067 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 12, 2006
Posts: 20
|
you can add pink flamingo & belly full of bad berries to the I.C. list. If you are seriously interested in getting on no way jose, go see scott carson at I.M.E. super nice guy and always eager to talk about climbing.
|
|
|
|
|
punk_rocker333
May 1, 2006, 5:59 AM
Post #11 of 20
(4067 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 9, 2004
Posts: 387
|
In reply to: Also, classic hard cracks not quite on topic are Boogyman 14a, City of Rocks, and Welcome to Ole Kentuck 13a, Red River Gorge.
Where is Boogyman located at the City? I heard it was on Treasure Rock, which is closed to climbing due to inscriptions, but I've never acutally seen it. It would be a cool climb to see.
|
|
|
|
|
camhead
May 1, 2006, 2:41 PM
Post #12 of 20
(4067 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
|
In reply to: In reply to: Also, classic hard cracks not quite on topic are Boogyman 14a, City of Rocks, and Welcome to Ole Kentuck 13a, Red River Gorge. Where is Boogyman located at the City? I heard it was on Treasure Rock, which is closed to climbing due to inscriptions, but I've never acutally seen it. It would be a cool climb to see.
Treasure Rock is right off the road, of course, before you get to the Electric Avenue area. You can see Boogyman from the pullout; it's a bouldery-looking fingercrack through a 45 degree roof.
|
|
|
|
|
angry
May 1, 2006, 3:10 PM
Post #13 of 20
(4067 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
|
I'd like to formally apologize for the poor reading comprehension skills displayed here.
I see that you said UTAH, I also see that your list is about the same as I'd be able to give you.
Good Luck
|
|
|
|
|
shutupandclimb
May 1, 2006, 4:33 PM
Post #14 of 20
(4067 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 3, 2003
Posts: 58
|
In reply to: There is at least one 13 something crack at squamish (across the highway from murin park) and probably others but I can't remember any names.
The cracks you are thinking of are Leviticus (12d) and 69 (13c R).
There's a few other 13 cracks around, and of course the famous Cobra Crack which is still waiting for a FFA.
Dave
Edit: I suppose Squamish is nowhere near Utah :oops:
|
|
|
|
|
furrymurry
May 3, 2006, 12:01 AM
Post #15 of 20
(4067 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 6, 2004
Posts: 205
|
Rage 5.13 The Narrows, Wichita Mountains, Oklahoma
|
|
|
|
|
bvb
May 3, 2006, 12:29 AM
Post #16 of 20
(4067 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 3, 2003
Posts: 954
|
hmmm...good 5.13 cracks, somewhere out west? i'd check out yosemite national park.
i've heard quite a few people recommend the place for crack climbing. i bet it's pretty good.
|
|
|
|
|
furrymurry
May 3, 2006, 4:22 PM
Post #17 of 20
(4067 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 6, 2004
Posts: 205
|
Yeah, it's just talk.
|
|
|
|
|
flamer
May 3, 2006, 11:17 PM
Post #18 of 20
(4067 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 2955
|
In reply to: I'd like to formally apologize for the poor reading comprehension skills displayed here. I see that you said UTAH
Maybe you should work on yours? He said Utah OR ANYWHERE OUT WEST.
jackass
josh
|
|
|
|
|
angry
May 3, 2006, 11:45 PM
Post #19 of 20
(4067 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
|
D'oh!!
|
|
|
|
|
climbingbums
May 7, 2006, 11:29 PM
Post #20 of 20
(4067 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 18, 2003
Posts: 117
|
sphinx crack, red planet in sedona, as far as indian creek- winner takes all (5.13-), less than zero (5.13), learning to fly (5.13+), six star (13-), Death of a cowboy (13- and awesome), and the most immaculate splitter on earth, tricks are for kids (13b/c). Air sweden is 13, but its not really a crack climb at the crux, but swedin ringle sure is sweet! so are the arete moves, super proud.
bobby
|
|
|
|
|
|
