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uasunflower
May 11, 2006, 11:46 AM
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tisar, it's a nice site, i also like his pictures. Dargaud is a crazy guy spending his time between climbing and antarctica...
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chrtur
May 11, 2006, 12:17 PM
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Tisar: Nice link, keeping me busy off work :lol:
For you people interested to go to Sweden for a trip look at his trip To Sarek, this is my area :D
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tisar
May 11, 2006, 1:39 PM
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In reply to: Tisar: Nice link, keeping me busy off work :lol: For you people interested to go to Sweden for a trip look at his trip To Sarek, this is my area :D
You can't be seriious in thinking that a picture like this
http://www.gdargaud.net/...Sarek/NightStorm.jpg
is able to motivate anyone to climb in Sweden, do you?
*brrrrrr*
- Daniel (freezing, despite the 20°C outside)
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chrtur
May 11, 2006, 1:57 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Tisar: Nice link, keeping me busy off work :lol: For you people interested to go to Sweden for a trip look at his trip To Sarek, this is my area :D You can't be seriious in thinking that a picture like this is able to motivate anyone to climb in Sweden, do you? *brrrrrr* - Daniel (freezing, despite the 20°C outside)
Well I am trying to convince some friends to join for next year, but it is difficult. Long time ago I did a trip there now. Went through some photos and here is one for you Tisar :wink:
http://spinphys.org/sarek.jpg
Anyway, I always wanted to go climbing in Norway and Lofoten? Anyone interested just let me know. I will go back to Sweden later this summer for a visit of my family and would like to make it together with a climbing trip torwards Lofoten.
- Christian
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tisar
May 11, 2006, 2:06 PM
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In reply to: Anyway, I always wanted to go climbing in Norway and Lofoten? Anyone interested just let me know. I will go back to Sweden later this summer for a visit of my family and would like to make it together with a climbing trip torwards Lofoten. - Christian
What a pity, but I won't make it this summer. Since my norwegian (former) flatmate showed me pix of Lofoten I always wanted to give it holiday. Something like two weeks or so, but preferably in June when it's dry and warm. But, hell yeah!, I'll do it once. Must be absolutely awesome climbing over there!
- Daniel
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uasunflower
May 12, 2006, 7:35 AM
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yup, lofoten sounds very good - although my mom didn't like it and said there were too many moskitos and too much rain...but there might be a chance i'm going to peru this summer...
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uasunflower
May 12, 2006, 9:59 AM
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:cry: :cry: :cry:
soon none will want to climb with me...but i like my sandals...
...there is a route up fitz roy at around 6a/b...
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tisar
May 12, 2006, 10:14 AM
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In reply to: :cry: :cry: :cry: soon none will want to climb with me...but i like my sandals... ...there is a route up fitz roy at around 6a/b...
Let's see:
In reply to: Aufgrund seiner Form und der extremen, unberechenbaren Wetterverhältnisse gilt der Berg auch heute noch als extrem schwer zu besteigen, selbst Reinhold Messner ist schon einmal an ihm gescheitert.
Translates: Due to his form and the extrem, unpredictable weather conditions the mountain still is considered extrem hard to conquer. Even Reinhold Messner failed there once.
I'd say: Go for it! :D
Honestly, I'd love to climb with you. BUT it'll be a one-digit amount of pitches on a sunny day in summer with no cloud in the sky and in a grade I can easily lead. Okay, that might make it uninteresting for you, but still... Oh, and I'll wear helmet, headlamp and a bottle of water (maybe a knife too, but I won't tell you).
:wink:
- Daniel
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chrtur
May 12, 2006, 10:21 AM
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Tisar: I am writing my will at the moment :wink:
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uasunflower
May 12, 2006, 10:25 AM
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chrtur, you will save a poor partnerless climber in despair, the climibing community will be proud of you :lol:
****
i promise not to bring my sandals with me!
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chrtur
May 12, 2006, 10:35 AM
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Ok making more plans, very busy working today :lol:
The dates of 19-23/6 I will be alpine climbing in the area of Aigle which is just east of Lake Geneva or northeast of Chamonix in some sense. Anyway, I can stick around for the weekend 24-25/6 if anyone is interested to meet not far from this area, even Chamonix would be fine since it is on the way back to Turin. Just drop me a note.
- Christian
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booger
May 12, 2006, 11:00 AM
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Christian, I think only uasun is crazy enough to go with you on one of your cold-ass epics. Even in the summertime, I'm sure the two of you will manage to find the only 8aXXX with an avalanche waiting to fall on it. :lol:
OH- Since you're writing your will, put me down for the gear (except the skis... I'll be sipping scotch in the cabin rather than flying down a mountain on sticks)! :wink:
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uasunflower
May 12, 2006, 12:13 PM
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chrtur, so far i'm in my beg. of june phase...will let you know if/when i get to the end of june :roll:
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chrtur
May 15, 2006, 9:33 AM
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Ciao tutti, Hey all folks, Guten morgen, God morgon, .....
Since my last week just fell apart I had to make it up this one instead :wink:
Well, friday afternoon we closed at work a little earlier and went climbing outside Torino for some hours, we managed to do five single pitches. There were some beginners among us I we had a lot of fun together. I did a delicate F6a+ slab :angel:
Saturday we took off at 07.30 and went to Paretone in Aosta to do some multipith climb for the day. The slab route of choice was 280 m and 9 pitches (5a,5c,6a,5a,6a,5b,5c,4c,4c) with me leading the whole. I needed to get prepared for the climb with UA :wink: Well, my feet were hurting like pain in the ..... . Also we hauled one of the partner over some roof, we were climbing in three.
Sunday was skiing day as usual and even a more earlier start at 04.00 from Torino to start skinning at 06.00 with very nice snow-conditions, 1700 m tour with this nice crust in the end of the run. Try one time telemarking with this crust and I think you will understand how much fun we had.... :D
Anyway I put only two pictures from the climb since my friend took most of them with his camera, still need to get them. For the skiing part I skip it to not upset Heiko and Tisar to much with winter pictures in the middle of May 8^) . Btw the season is far from over...
Another climbing party next to us at the wall, it should be a pitch of F5c/F6a if I am not mistaken:
http://spinphys.org/par02.jpg
After coming down you can also climb single pitches, if I read the guidebook he is climbing a F5c.
http://spinphys.org/par01.jpg
Saluti Christian
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tisar
May 15, 2006, 10:01 AM
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Hi Folks,
Christian, those climbs look awesome (and so... snow free :D ), the second photo could almost be of Yosemite... Congrats!
Since the weather tricked me (forcast was thunderstorms, reality was dry to sunny) into mostly non-climbing activities, you might still hear the echo of my liver crying.
The consequences of Friday night in the beer garden made me become the ultimate shivering mutant whimp on Saturday. My brother laughed his a&$ off when I didn't even managed to lead a simple 5.9 (or such) at the concrete towers. The rest of the time I spent toproping and complaining... I hope you are able to acknowledge my training efforts for the Pfalz! :D
So far, have a nice one!
- Daniel
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uasunflower
May 15, 2006, 10:05 AM
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mmm that wall looks nice, chrtur! keep training, and all will be well on our trip :wink: !
here's my tent with the view saturday morning -
http://uasunflower.blogs.friendster.com/...mbing/belladonna.JPG
For all disbelievers in 8hr drives, if this does not motivate you, nothing will!
Saturday we did a climb in the Belladonna range of Oisans (near Grenoble, in front of Alpes d'Huez), on Tour de l'Homme, a 300m cliff. Unfortunately we got lost a bit on the approach and had to do an easier route due to degrading weather. The storm still hit us on the last 3 pitches - and actually wet granite is not that bad, we managed to finish the route.
Sunday we had a plan to try Pic de la Fare - a route there goes 1000m at 6a (Walker de Livet), but that same weather and demotivation made us change plans and head to Presles. Strange things happen lately there - some crazy locals decided some terrain on the base of the Buis sector belongs to them, so they shout and follow climbers on the way to the cliff. We played some hide and seak, did mixed terrain running and finally got to our climb. No more adventures, top was reached, belgium attained at 1am this morning.
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chrtur
May 15, 2006, 10:44 AM
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In reply to: Sunday we had a plan to try Pic de la Fare - a route there goes 1000m at 6a (Walker de Livet)
I looked at the topo, 35 pithes more or less F6a/F6a+ half of them. One needs to be fit in order to all of them in one day. My french is not the best so I could not understand the estimated time for climb, rappel and climbing typ (slab,pockets, etc)? UA do you have it? Still looks like a very nice climb.
- Christian
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heiko
May 15, 2006, 11:03 AM
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:shock: I missed more than two pages of the Eurofreaks shitstorm!!! How could this happen?
Julia, who are you climbing with these days? I don't know too many people who would voluntarily go on 1000m of 6a ;)
(note to myself: must reconsider my friendships :lol:)
Christian, that second pic of Aosta looks awesome. I've gone through this valley by car a few times already, but never actually managed to climb there :(
As for me, we had a fantastic weekend here with bellaitalia and filippo+gf, climbed multi-pitch and introduced the gf to multi-pitch climbing, which is even more important. A new addict! ;)
Yesterday evening we couldn't get enough and even worked a route together (something usually unheard of among us!). :D
Then had a fabulous dinner with a sunset view on Lago di Toblino and said bye bye.
I still wonder how it is possible that climbing wrecks your body so much but at the same time energizes your mind for days and days of work.
Me happy.
Tisar: leave this f*cking city.
H.
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uasunflower
May 15, 2006, 11:17 AM
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chrtur, it's bolted granit, slab to vertical. Time between 10 hours and more. Record time around 5 i believe. You can bivi on it if you want - but to me it's more interesting to give it an all-in try in one day. You can rap the route and the summit is at 2,300m or so, the bottom being 1h from the road, the engagement factor is thus minimized. It's one of the longest routes in the alps of this type 8^) . I might come back to grenoble to do it sometime soon...
heiko - the crazy person so far is renaud, you might meet him in val di mello in 2 weeks if u're around.
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booger
May 15, 2006, 11:26 AM
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UA, that route sounds amazing!!! I don't suppose you have time to put it in the RDB? :D
soooo jealous!!
Taz
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uasunflower
May 15, 2006, 11:30 AM
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done :wink:
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heiko
May 15, 2006, 11:58 AM
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what an exhaustive description. ;)
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chrtur
May 15, 2006, 12:01 PM
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In reply to: what an exhaustive description. ;)
:lol: 6a monster, one of the longests climbs of its kind in the alps
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Re: Calling all Euro-freaks
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