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climbingaggie03
May 16, 2006, 3:35 PM
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Ok, so I've been out to the elk slabs in the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge a couple of times, but it's always been a PITA to get there, once it took 3 hours, does anybody have any advice, or landmarks to look for to help me get to the base without all the bushwacking and 4th-5th class scrambling?
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cordata
May 16, 2006, 3:43 PM
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It's better to park at the south end (Treasure Lake) entrance. You should be able to see the slab from the parking area. Just start hiking towards it. Trails will sometimes split off and then wander back together. The first major landmark you come to is crank boulder. (See guidebook for photo). Don't pass directly in front of this rock but take a left onto the trail. (ie apparently away from this little crag and by your sense of direction it will feel like you're turning left away from the direction of the slabs) The next major landmark is post oak falls. Go up to the top of the falls, you should again get a good view of the slabs from here. Continue following the trail to a couple of house sized boulders off by themselves, at this point the slabs are right in front of you. (look up and wave if you're not the first that morning) Keep following the trail until it disappears underneath some big boulders. Go under the boulders and start scrambling up. You will need to surmount a small boulder then there will be a visible trail-- there is no way to avoid the last bit of scrambling but you should be able to do the approach in about 45 minutes or so.
I think the directions in the Mayse and Lohn guidebooks are not bad. Have fun!
Dave
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leinosaur
May 16, 2006, 3:47 PM
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here's the bit from the Routes Database here:
Elk Slabs - 16 routes
Description: The slabs are located about a mile and a half east of the Treasure Lake parking lot. From the memorial to Phillip Mitchell that makes the begining of the trail, follow the good trail to post oak falls which is usually a skid mark of water on the rock with a stagnate mesquito breeding pool below. Go up the slabs to the left of the "falls" to find good trail and follow it untill it appears to dead-end at a big (house sized) boulder. Climb UNDER the boulder to the other side and follow a faint trail up the hill. Some easy scrambling brings you to a nice big ledge with a small shade tree at the base of the big wall.
The "good trail past post oak falls" crosses the creek (which was up, two weekends ago - some wet feet on that one) and goes past the Crank Boulder but not right up against it. When you top the slabs left of Post Oak Falls (which were pretty impressive after the rains!) draw a good bead on the slabs and keep that in mind. After an epic first approach a few July's ago (not the best time for SW-facing slab) I've always found trail since.
Alternatively, if you go up and over early (before Crank Boulder) you can still spot the slabs and do a bit of bushwhacking, for a more direct approach. 3 hours sounds like you went too far North?
Do you have Chuck Lohn's guidebook? It's description's pretty good, I think.
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climbingaggie03
May 16, 2006, 4:02 PM
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Thanks for the beta, I've never seen post oak falls I don't think. I have made it back to the car in 45 mins, but I think due to the post climbing celebrations, that route has escaped my memory.
The 3 hour approach day, we could see the slabs almost the whole time, but we tried to come from the left, lots of bush wacking, a fair bit of scrambling up chimneys only to back down, and one session trying to calm my partners girl friend who was suddenly terrified to tears by a low angle slab of rock (that we walked up) was finally capped off by a short section that we actually roped up for and placed a couple of pieces. then we finally got to the base of the climbs.
I know where the crank boulder is, but after that, I feel like i'm just wandering around on the trails (which is fine) til I get to the area below the climbs. At that point I don't know to go right or left to get through the bushes and find the easiest scramble to the base.
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berkly
May 16, 2006, 5:20 PM
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In reply to: Thanks for the beta, I've never seen post oak falls I don't think. I have made it back to the car in 45 mins, but I think due to the post climbing celebrations, that route has escaped my memory. The 3 hour approach day, we could see the slabs almost the whole time, but we tried to come from the left, lots of bush wacking, a fair bit of scrambling up chimneys only to back down, and one session trying to calm my partners girl friend who was suddenly terrified to tears by a low angle slab of rock (that we walked up) was finally capped off by a short section that we actually roped up for and placed a couple of pieces. then we finally got to the base of the climbs. I know where the crank boulder is, but after that, I feel like i'm just wandering around on the trails (which is fine) til I get to the area below the climbs. At that point I don't know to go right or left to get through the bushes and find the easiest scramble to the base.
Stay right after going under the boulders and up the faint trail. It puts you directly underneath great expectations
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furrymurry
May 16, 2006, 5:30 PM
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Man, if you want to walk 45 minutes to climb there's way better areas in the Wichitas (i.e. every single other one).
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leinosaur
May 16, 2006, 6:22 PM
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In reply to: Man, if you want to walk 45 minutes to climb there's way better areas in the Wichitas (i.e. every single other one).
Murry, de gustibus non disputandum est. "Better" is such a relative term.
Where in the wichitas is there longer unprotected 5.7 slab? Or, the oldest climb in the wichitas? Have you climbed EVERYTHING out there? Buns up is pretty burly overhanging offwidth, for a 5.8, and the Eliminator (10c), though short, is rad. Really fun sequence.
So, I'm not saying it's "better" (?) than other areas, just unique, and therefore worth a visit now and again.
Berkly and I strung Elk Slabs into three pitches as an approach to the Mother Lode. Runout slab up to fun crack-cragging made for good variety. Beats the touron trail, and the ground-to-summit effect is fun.
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pendereki
May 16, 2006, 7:56 PM
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WheeehoooHaHahmmnnwhooop!!!!! :lol: :lol: :lol:
I can't tell you how many long hours I have spent wandering lost in the Wichitas!!! It took me four attempts over the course of 15 years to reach the start of Great Expectations----and then it was too late in the day to climb!! It is STILL on my to do list. Most all of my great campfire stories involve me or my friends being lost and/or terrified in the Wichitas.
My advice, take plenty of food and water, read up on Geronimo ---and maintain a good sense of humor!!!
CM
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furrymurry
May 16, 2006, 11:18 PM
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In reply to: Murry, de gustibus non disputandum est.
Oh Mr. Leinau, pulling out the latin on me, you should know that isn't fair as I haven't had it in years. Nonetheless, I managed to work through it :roll:
Elk Slabs may be the home of the oldest climb in the Wichitas, so give it a visit at some point. If you want runout 5.7 slab, save yourself the approach and spend the time driving to Quartz.
Personally, I don't like Elk, but that's just me. The reason I say there are better areas to check out is because A) there are; and more importantly B) he sounds like he hasn't spent a whole lot of time down there, so I'd recommend checking other stuff out instead of committing a lot of days to elk slabs.
But what do you know anyways, you only went to law school :D
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leinosaur
May 17, 2006, 7:37 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Murry, de gustibus non disputandum est. Oh Mr. Leinau, pulling out the latin on me, you should know that isn't fair as I haven't had it in years. Nonetheless, I managed to work through it :roll:
so it was fair, after all!
I actually learned that one from "the Brady Bunch" TV show long before I ever took Latin (say, 20 yrs ago, back when I watched TV): Grandpa Brady was talking to Alice, quoting Pliny the Elder. He translated it as, "you can't argue about taste." Alice replied, "Old Pliny really knew where his head was at!"
In reply to: Elk Slabs may be the home of the oldest climb in the Wichitas, so give it a visit at some point. If you want runout 5.7 slab, save yourself the approach and spend the time driving to Quartz.
Especially if it's rained, the Treasure Lake area makes for a a gorgeous approach. Another good beginner area with a longish (30-45 min.) hike in is the Wintergarden Wall. As the name implies, though, it's another area best done in the winter. Lots of adventurous .7's, .8's and .9's out there. A nice wilderness feel to the place. (OK, it's loose here and there but come on . . . )
Kinda tricky approach on that one, too . . . go left across the creek, go up the black slab, turn right and follow the cairns.
No argument about Quartz, though: it's not to be missed, especially if slab is your thing.
In reply to: Personally, I don't like Elk, but that's just me.
The idea of "not liking" a climbing area is just foreign to me. It's there, its' climbable, it's got a place in my heart. Like Father Marlin once said, "appreciation is the highest form of prayer."
In reply to: "The reason I say there are better areas to check out is because A) there are; and more importantly B) he sounds like he hasn't spent a whole lot of time down there, so I'd recommend checking other stuff out instead of committing a lot of days to elk slabs.
This is a good point, although he's been around a bit: Elk, Upper Scott, and the Narrows, according to his profile. There's definitely much more to see, but if he liked the slabs enough to go back, he may have different proclivities than yourself.
Echo Dome's another good area for moderates.
In reply to: But what do you know anyways, you only went to law school :D
Objection, irrelevant!
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okiedokie
Jul 7, 2006, 11:47 PM
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Hi,
I live in Lawton which is just south of the Wichita Mountain Wildlife Refuge. I've been hiking the Wichitas for many years. I'm very familiar with the trails. While I'm not a climber, I've stopped to watch climbers "do their thing" many times. I'm much more into photography and that's the primary reason for my hiking. Anyway, if anyone is interested in climbing in the Wichitas and is unfamiliar with the trails, I would be very happy to lead you where you want to go. I welcome the opportunity to observe and perhaps learn more about the climbing lingo and such. I'm not really interested in climbing so I wouldn't "bug" you about that. Really, the only thing I ask is that you allow me to take photos of the climb. If interested, email me in advance of your trip and we can make arrangements to meet.
Carl
"The wind is what it is!"
www.okiedokiephotos.com
herbie@okiedokiephotos.com
charisphoto@sbcglobal.net
carl.evans@okdhs.org
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