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jsj42
Mar 26, 2006, 8:28 PM
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In reply to: Josh, Hey! You were gonna keep us posted on how you're doing - how are you doing? Making some progress? Recovering good or have you run into any snags? How are you feeling through it all? Out with it if you will - I do wnat to know anyway...
Sorry, my interest in rc.com and climbing in general ebbs and flows these days. I'm doing well and making some progress. My right foot is "all better;" I'm weighting it and walking on it -- I have lots of pain in my ankle and plantar fascia, but I expect that to eventually go away. My left foot is still not load bearing, but I'm allowed to stationary bike. It's nice to sweat. I should have my second surgery in mid-April and then, hopefully, be able to try walking without crutches. The right knee is a big problem -- lots of pain and stiffness. I don't know what's wrong with it but I can't really address that until I'm walking again. Those are the major injuries.
No real "snags." It's just slow going. But I've TR'd in the gym a few times now. I'm able to get up 10+'s without falling and I tried a couple of 12's -- but those are usually hangdog affairs.
My focus these days has been dealing with some other areas of concern -- ex girlfriends, money for hospital bills, whether I want to go to nursing school right away or wait a year... and not so much on climbing.
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healyje
Mar 26, 2006, 11:39 PM
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Josh,
Quite understandable - there is life beyond climbing as I'm sure you are finding at every turn. You're young, no need to rush, while you're recovering you might as well focus on the things you can control and work towards. School sounds like a good one if that's really a viable option. One step at a time. Good luck but do check in every now and then and let us know how you're doing...
Joseph
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jer
Apr 5, 2006, 7:44 PM
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I have been trying to find a way to help my friend Josh, beyond listening, prayer, and offering encouragement.
For those in the front range area, I will be doing a live painting(s?) at the Boulder Adventure Film Festival in an effort to auction them off to cover some of Josh's ever growing medical bills.
This is located at Boulder Theater. The event coincides with "Dirt Days".
I paint Monday night, the 17th.
http://www.boulderadventurefilm.com/
Hopefully some of you can come with deep pockets and help get our man back on his feet.
See you there, JoJa.
-jer
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jsj42
Apr 12, 2006, 2:36 AM
Post #54 of 90
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Surgery round two on Tuesday. Woo hoo! The doc says that once the operation is done I can return to any and all of my normal activities. Will I be able to rehab enough in the next few weeks to make a summer roadtrip to Yosemite worthwhile... that is the question!
So, anyone want to do some easy climbing next week with an atrophied (but super psyched) weakling?
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healyje
Apr 12, 2006, 3:05 AM
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Josh,
That's great news!!! Keep posting on how it's going...
Joseph
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john_doe
Apr 12, 2006, 4:13 AM
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Talk about Deja-vu!
I took a 60 footer in May 2005 and broke both legs. I broke the Tib/Fib/Talus in my right leg (13 screws and 2 plates), and the let medial malious (2 screws). I spent 6 weeks in a wheel chair, 1 month on crutches, and 2 weeks with a cane.
That took me up to September, where I did 8 weeks of intensive physio therapy (4 times per week - 3 hours per session). Here they worked me to help me re-gain all of the range of motion that I had lost.
I totally understand how you are feeling and how you felt after your accident. I went through all of the same things. There was no "life flashing before my eyes" when the ledge broke, only the sound of the wind whistling in my ears, and then mega pain.
There is nothing like looking down and seeing your right heel where your right toes should be, and then knowing that you are 500 feet off the deck and you need to get lowered down to a small ledge to wait for help. Once there, having to rotate your mangled right leg back into proper alignment (ouch), and then waiting 4 hours for a rescue team and helicopter to come and pick you up.
When you are stuck in a hospital bed, wheel chair or whatever, you face all your demons. I swore off climbing, swore off doing anything that would put me through that much pain, and resolved my life to that of mediocracy. The problem was - once I had done that, I had no reason to want to get better.
Low and behold that by day 3 in the hospital, I was back reading climbing magazines and planning all the routes that I wanted to do. Now this is not to say that my want to climb stayed strong.... over the next few months, I owned and dis-owned climbing many times.... Only to realize that it is who I am.
Before this gets too long winded, I will end in saying that I am back climbing now. I climb 4 times a week at the local gym and have a season of ice climbing under my belt since the accident. BUT now I climb for different reasons... I climb because that is what I like to do. I don't push the grades as hard, or my limits. I am not afraid to back off a climb that is too hard because I may look weak, nor will I take unnecessary risks.
I just go out and have fun, I have nothing to prove, anyone who looks at the scars on my legs will see that I have already proven enough.
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treez
Apr 12, 2006, 4:31 AM
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Wow. I posted to this thread before my accident. I haven't been allowed to weight my right leg for a month and still have two more to go. I had no idea what it was like to not be able to walk.
Reading this again and seeing the fall thread on supertopo today have helped with my perspective. It is definately a struggle to have life as you know it ripped away and suddenly be unable to distract yourself from yourself.
Nothing makes my day more right now than hearing about someone who had worse injuries than I, but was able to climb again.
Thanks for the words about attitude. It is easier to say than do.
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jakedatc
Apr 12, 2006, 4:35 AM
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as someone in the sports medicine field that's some darn impressive recovery time. Some say a positive mental outlook helps things.. i'm pretty sure you prove it in your case.
knee diagnosis should be pretty easy with a MRI.. i'm guessing definitely meniscus issues.. ACL would be a good chance too with that kind of loading. luckily compared to your shattered foot bones the surgerys are pretty cake
That's awesome you're back climbing and getting strong again.
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swede
Apr 12, 2006, 6:37 AM
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Good luck to you all. Your experiences is a good reminder not to get cocky about my own knowledge about climbing.
I wouldn´t mind getting you out to the crag Josh, but I am on the other side of the world. If you ever get to this side - just send me a mail.
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nikki_keasey
Apr 13, 2006, 2:52 PM
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In reply to: My focus these days has been dealing with some other areas of concern -- ex girlfriends, money for hospital bills, whether I want to go to nursing school right away or wait a year... and not so much on climbing.
Nursing school sounds like a great idea, but have you considered doing some writing on the side? You've got talent, and an amazing story to tell. Your writing is very moving and strong. I feel you could go places with it. Rock on!
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keinangst
Apr 13, 2006, 3:09 PM
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Terrific story, should be mandatory reading for all climbers. Best of luck getting back into the game and props on recentering your priorities.
Also, I'd like to nominate you for Climbing Magazine's first annual Titanium Pin award, reserved for people who learn the downside of freesoloing the hard way. Somehow I don't think they'll be interested.
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jsj42
Apr 27, 2006, 8:01 PM
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Here's the latest...
Last week I had surgery #2 -- no more titanium in my foot (now it's in a jar on my dresser). The surgery went GREAT; the doctor is very satisfied with how things turned out and ordered me to promptly return to climbing, er, uh, cycling and elliptical. All week I've been in various amounts of pain ranging from :? to :cry: to :shock: but today I actually was able to cram my foot into a cycling shoe and go for a little ride.
The bad news? I saw the knee specialist and, well, let's just say it would be easier to list what's *not* wrong with my knee... surgery in another month. But for now, I seriously want to go climbing! I think late next week would be a good time frame for me... Seriously! Is there anyone who will put a rope up for me on Werk Supp or West Buttress?
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mhabicht
Apr 27, 2006, 8:42 PM
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I have not read all 5 pages but I just wanted to say that was a great story, you wrote it well and I am glad you are on the mend!
-michael
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claramie
Apr 27, 2006, 10:05 PM
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I didn't read the 5 pages of responses, but I'm pretty sure that we all agree:
- your story is amazing
- this is a great personal example of the tradeoffs for free-soloing
- we can't wait to have you back climbing again
Get well, stay safe and, once you are ready, climb hard.
Thanks for sharing,
Clayton
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jsj42
May 24, 2006, 7:31 PM
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I can't really think of a more fitting way to "wrap up" this thread then to tell a little story. It's been a month since my last operation, and I've been out climbing a few times since then. Fairly recently I revisited Tagger, the climb I fell on. I led it, in rather terrified fashion, placing gear every two feet. But I led it cleanly, and I was able remember the exact place where I slipped back in January. The experience was "weird" -- I can't really think of a better word to describe it, but more on that in a moment.
After the climb and some reflection, I think I've gained more insight into the exact cause of the fall: When I brought my partner up, he said, "Man, I would never solo that -- it's insecure." I realized that, when I made the decision to solo the climb, I never really thought about how insecure it was. Earlier that day I climbed Ruper, and I specifically deliberated over the third pitch (the "Ruper Traverse"), knowing that it would be the crux. It was one insecure move off of a good hold to a crappy hold to a good hold. I knew I could do it and I launched up the climb. Again, before committing to the crux, I spent a significant amount of time looking at the sequence and preparing myself mentally before climbing it.
I did not give Tagger the same attention. My route memory is pretty bad in general, and when I was standing at the base of it I really only thought about how I'd done the pitch many times before and had never fallen on it. I didn't really think about what the actual climbing was like -- it had been a couple years since I'd been on it.
Had I given Tagger it's due diligence, perhaps I would have remembered how insecure it is; maybe I wouldn't have climbed it; more likely I would have concentrated more on what I needed to do to get through it. I believe now that my lack of focus on the climb is what was behind the screw up. I've soloed High E, Magic Dragon, Sykes' Sickle, the North Chimney of Castleton... on all of these I was extremely focused -- Tagger, in retrospect, was rushed, and it bit me in the ass.
At the belay I felt "weird." My mind tried, futilely, to justify what had happened. Was this climb worth all the sleepless nights and pain-filled days of the last few months? Hell no. What climb would be then? The Naked Edge? Jules Verne? The Bachar-Yerian? The answer was no to all of them. No climb (no solo) was worth it. As these thoughts went through my mind... I felt weird. Cognitive dissonance. I was stupid -- a complete fool. I hated myself; I hated the climb. I wished I could reverse time.
My partner led the 10c second pitch and I followed cleanly. A few days ago I was able to redpoint 11a -- granted it was a Boulder Canyon clip-up, but psychologically it felt good. On a physical level any climbing involving my left foot is excruciating. If I can get through this hump and if the pain abates, I believe I'll return to my old obsessive climbing self. If not, keep your eyes on ebay for a great deal on a huge rack!
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swede
May 29, 2006, 9:39 AM
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Nice to hear that you are climbing again. And that you have a different opinion about soloing.
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healyje
Jun 1, 2006, 3:36 AM
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Josh,
Thanks so much for that update and bout of reflection. I'm glad you got a chance to get back up it - many never would or could get back on a route after such an event. My hats off to you dude - your life will be all the richer and considered for having survived and confronted the whole experience. If I'm ever out that way I'll give you a shout - would love to share a rope with you...
Joseph
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dingus
Jun 1, 2006, 11:55 PM
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Josh
Well done! Hey man, just make sure you don't reinjure yourself by 'leading too soon.'
Fucking your foot up all over again on some pissant meaningless sport fall would suck beyond measure.
DMT
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glyrocks
Jun 2, 2006, 12:36 AM
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In reply to: f---ing your foot up all over again... would suck beyond measure.
yes, it will- even if it's a rad trad line. trust me, there is no hurry.
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cracklover
Jun 2, 2006, 2:52 AM
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Great to hear! Impressed by your honesty, and also your tenacity.
Cheers!
GO
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jsh
Jun 2, 2006, 3:35 AM
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Wow, Josh. I just happened across this thread tonight - what can I say besides, I wish you all the best.
Julie (and Scott, from the Gunks).
That goes for you too, Dingus old buddy!
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harmonrab
Jun 2, 2006, 4:07 AM
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wow,
that was an amazing story. I guess I won't be even dreaming of soloing on rock anymore. Maybe two moves off the deck and get back on safer ground.
I havent taken a trad fall yet but, it can be a very sobering experience indeed if u take a crazy whipper like that dude. I have taken some pendulum swings, done some airy traverses, some undercling hand traverses without any place to put in a pro about 30 feet off the deck, crazy whippers on sport. Now that I think about soloing, I will never do that or at least try my best to refrain myself from it no matter how easy the grade is.
I am glad I came across ur well written story. An experience like that probably would make me either cry for my momma or piss my pants (sorry if I am too honest) or do a lot of bad mouthing myself after the fall. I will try to stick to the old advice from now on : the leader must not fall (and no soloing) deal.
Thanks for the great story and a very sobering down to earth forum guys. I almost owe u my life.
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beny
Jul 21, 2006, 3:45 PM
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so another addition to josh's crazy story:
i recently ran into him on the diamond in colorado. what the heck? how did he get his wheelchair all the way up to the base of north chimneys? i'll never know. anyhoo, this hardman turned hard-gimp was limping his way up the start of ariana to get to the obelisk. onsighting .11a on the diamond after being a chair for 4 months!! not cool. josh, you gotta make it look even a little tough for you. you're making everyone else look bad. i don't have any excuses like ground falls, broken bones, etc to forgive my climbing ineptitude, so please cut us all some slack.
in all seriousness, it was absolutly amazing to see him up there. what a great surprise. i think everyone on the wall had a better time knowing he was back in the game. josh, you're a stud.
-ben
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healyje
Jul 22, 2006, 5:27 AM
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Josh. Dude! Sounds like you need to add a chapter to the saga if you were indeed making an outing on the Diamond! Spill.
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jsj42
Jul 24, 2006, 3:30 AM
Post #75 of 90
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Ben is one of the most positive & encouraging people I know... Hmph... Why can't I find a woman like him?
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