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z_rock90
Jun 2, 2006, 3:48 AM
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Registered: Apr 18, 2005
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I'm getting some gear for my b-day so far I have decided on....
cams
Metolius ultralight tcu's 00-4
Camalots .4-4
passive gear
Metolius curved hex's 1-10
black diamond stoppers 4-13
runner's
6 mammut 8mm slings
carabiners
30 trango superflys
Do you think that I should get rid of the .4 camalot ? And cut down on the amount of superflys?
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thisflash
Jun 2, 2006, 3:52 AM
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Registered: Sep 5, 2004
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Hexes are a waste of time and money. Ask for some RPs instead.
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crimpstrength
Jun 2, 2006, 4:08 AM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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I would wait a few weeks for the 6mm Mammuts
I would get more too, I carry 10 two footers and one four footer. I always seem to use them.
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happybob
Jun 2, 2006, 5:11 AM
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Registered: Aug 6, 2005
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Ya know dude, everyone here is going to give you their own personal experience picture, and every other person is going to say "try the shit first!" and chances are your not going to find yourself a definitive yes or no. Just a warning.
Here's my opinion that shouldn't matter:
-I like the ultralight TCU idea. I just got some, and they quickly became my fav piece.
-I would agree with ditching the #.4 camalot and maybe getting the comparable size in metolius cams. (I just feel safer on them than C4's...)
-Keep the hexes. The smaller ones might not be so useful, but do go with the larger ones. I love mine, probably my fav piece besides the new TCU's, and I don't even have the curved ones.
-I'm not a big fan of trango gear and would get some other brand biners, but that is strictly personal opinion and has no logical grounds(That I know of).
-Just me, but I would get more slings. I like to have extras when I'm done instead of running out.
-Get different stoppers. I love my DMM stoppers because they have little pockets in them and it surprised me how often they made a position usable.
That's what I think, but who cares. :wink:
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blake_wrinn
Jun 2, 2006, 5:26 AM
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Registered: Jul 22, 2005
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In reply to: Ya know dude, everyone here is going to give you their own personal experience picture, and every other person is going to say "try the s--- first!" and chances are your not going to find yourself a definitive yes or no. Just a warning. Here's my opinion that shouldn't matter: -I like the ultralight TCU idea. I just got some, and they quickly became my fav piece. -I would agree with ditching the #.4 camalot and maybe getting the comparable size in metolius cams. (I just feel safer on them than C4's...) -Keep the hexes. The smaller ones might not be so useful, but do go with the larger ones. I love mine, probably my fav piece besides the new TCU's, and I don't even have the curved ones. -I'm not a big fan of trango gear and would get some other brand biners, but that is strictly personal opinion and has no logical grounds(That I know of). -Just me, but I would get more slings. I like to have extras when I'm done instead of running out. -Get different stoppers. I love my DMM stoppers because they have little pockets in them and it surprised me how often they made a position usable. That's what I think, but who cares. :wink:
Very well said! Every one will give you their own opinions. read them all and use them to determine YOUR OWN way to go. I suggest checking out some of you local climbing areas that you plan on climbing at. use that knowledge to determine what you need. climbing gear gets very expensive very quick... so resist the, all too familiar, urge to splurge on "not so needed" gear. so take every ones 2 cents, determine what you need, and then buy the dang stuff already and go climb!!!! ha ha. Good luck to you!!
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z_rock90
Jun 2, 2006, 5:28 AM
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Registered: Apr 18, 2005
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thank you for your honest OP happybob, I am a dirty sport/learning trad climber and Have been climbing on my friends stoppers and hexes alone, and love them both, I still bring camalots up w/me but much rather place passive gear, I think that it is becoming a lost art and I want to be good at it. What metolius would you recommend insted of a .4 I'm thinking about replacing teh .4 and .5 camalot with a number 2 and 3 Ultralight power cam.
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happybob
Jun 2, 2006, 5:47 AM
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In reply to: thank you for your honest OP happybob, I am a dirty sport/learning trad climber and Have been climbing on my friends stoppers and hexes alone, and love them both, I still bring camalots up w/me but much rather place passive gear, I think that it is becoming a lost art and I want to be good at it. What metolius would you recommend instead of a .4 I'm thinking about replacing teh .4 and .5 camalot with a number 2 and 3 Ultralight power cam.
Which type of cam depends on what you climb. The fat cams seem to be designed for softer rock such as sandstone, but should work just as well on other types I would think. Do a search in the forums here to see what people think about them. I personally would just go with ultralight power cams, but that's just me. Though its only a few grams, why bother with the extra weight? When I buy more thats what I'm getting...
I agree, I love placing passive gear. My first trad experience I placed probably 4 to 1 passive to cams. It really depends on the rock though, I hear Indian Creek is not very safe without a few cams. I hope I can get down there this summer...
The bottom line is: DON'T DIE. My grandma freaks out on me every time she hears about some climber getting hurt or killed and you don't need to fuel that fire... :lol:
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oi4dave
Jun 12, 2006, 4:39 AM
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Registered: Jun 12, 2006
Posts: 9
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Black diamond quik silver quik draws
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moose_droppings
Jun 12, 2006, 5:30 AM
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Registered: Jun 7, 2005
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More runners, 2ft and 4ft. More biners too, some of them lockers
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weasel
Jun 13, 2006, 3:21 AM
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Registered: Sep 2, 2003
Posts: 136
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http://www.amazon.com/...424?%5Fencoding=UTF8
Since it sounds like you're starting out, get a book so you know what the f*ck to do with all that gear!
And yeah, I'd up your amount of slings to 10, carabiners to 50 and add 8 lockers. As well as either one or two 4' slings or a cordlette. Do you have a rope?
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tattooed_climber
Jun 13, 2006, 3:25 AM
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Registered: Dec 13, 2003
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birthday>>>>????
pfffft....how much cash them family of yours got???
gezzz...to think of all the shitty jobs i've worked and all that overtime to afford to live and buy gear.....well, to each his own
there's a billion threads in here on gear....search and read up on the items you've listed...
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rhythm164
Jun 13, 2006, 3:31 AM
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Registered: Mar 28, 2005
Posts: 964
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You're getting 'some' gear? Shouldn't that read "Mommy & Daddy are buying me a rack"
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weasel
Jun 13, 2006, 3:37 AM
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In reply to: birthday>>>>???? pfffft....how much cash them family of yours got??? gezzz...to think of all the s--- jobs i've worked and all that overtime to afford to live and buy gear.....well, to each his own there's a billion threads in here on gear....search and read up on the items you've listed...
Yeah, when I first read this, I had to try really hard not to give this guy both barrels. But, for those lucky few, might as well enjoy your wealth.
If you decide trad climbing isn't for you z-rock, send me a pm and I'll be happy to buy some of that stuff from ya. Seriously. Remember me.
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fredo
Jun 15, 2006, 11:50 PM
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Registered: Jul 27, 2002
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In reply to: I'm getting some gear for my b-day so far I have decided on.... cams Metolius ultralight tcu's 00-4 Camalots .4-4 passive gear Metolius curved hex's 1-10 black diamond stoppers 4-13 runner's 6 mammut 8mm slings carabiners 30 trango superflys Do you think that I should get rid of the .4 camalot ? And cut down on the amount of superflys?
All kidding aside..I'd ditch the two smallest TCU's and check to see if you can find any non ultralight Metolius #1-4 TCU on sale. Keep the 3 big hex sizes, keep the 0.4 Camalot, ditch the #4 unless you know your going to need it right away, of course if ya ain't paying, get it. Yellow and green Alien anyone? Get more slings and mix in a few nylon just in case you drop your prussik. Get some lockers, a few Attache, American D's, Positrons or the like, buy whatever ultralight wiregate that is on sale or cheaper, get some Dovals, a harness, rope, shoes, HELMET, Alpine equalizer, a PAS, some screamers and a tricam or two, the Falcon self rescue book, John Long anchors book, Freedom of the Hills, a subscription to Hustler, Pink Floyd's "Mettle", a fine bottle of Scotch, oh wait getting out of hand.......of course if ya ain't paying, get it.
foimt
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musicman1586
Jun 16, 2006, 12:05 AM
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Registered: Oct 26, 2005
Posts: 488
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I agree, some b-day present dude, how lucky you are, but as others have hinted at, just because you own the gear doesn't mean you have a clue how to use it, make sure you find someone you can follow and learn from for a while before you try to lead, don't get ahead of yourself, there's alot to learn about placing gear and all that surrounds trad climbing. If someone tells you that your still not ready to lead and that you still need to continue to second, just take it as sound advice and listen to them.
Also I really would say you might want to wait to buy all your gear, because if you've never placed any of that stuff, you don't know if you'll like how it feels, the Camalots get alot of hype, but I know alot of people that hate them for all the dozens that love them, it's all personal preference, so I'd say get out and try everyone else's gear and formulate your own opinions about what you think feels sound and comfortable in your hands and when you place it.
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