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artmusicsouth
Jun 10, 2006, 12:11 PM
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Registered: Nov 7, 2005
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We're looking to do Uncle Ben's in August. I was loking at the topo and it has the traverse from Merci Me to the 1st pitch of Uncle Ben at 10c. Is this pitch aidable or must it be free climbed?
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slavetogravity
Jun 10, 2006, 2:34 PM
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I have not done it, but a few years ago I saw a guy aid solo that pitch and he aided his way across it.
PS
If you have trouble freeing 5.10c trad, the run outs on Merci Me should realy get your blood pumping. :wink:
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erockrings
Jun 10, 2006, 4:50 PM
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It's easily aid-able. just leave lots of gear for the second because it's straight across. That said...you should have a crack and freeing it. if your coming in august it may be totally dry. (if it ever does totally dry). i managed to free the first half. then aid the rest due to wetness. although the last moves to the tree look harder than 10c. it's good fun.
so have fun.
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artmusicsouth
Jun 11, 2006, 11:46 AM
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Thanks for the info guys. The Merci Me approach I think will be interesting. I am an old fat guy now and climb very little. I used to climb gear 10's and sport 11's fairly regualry at T-Wall and other places in the south (12 years ago) but now I get don't get to get out very often. I am thinking I'll lead the 1st pitch of Merci Me at the easier .7 pitch with the 40 ft runouts and let my partner take the .8 lead.
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estwing
Jun 11, 2006, 2:44 PM
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Registered: Mar 24, 2002
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I climbed merci me last summer, all the moves are there. The second pitch is a bit less runout, just be sure to check that the hangers are tight on the studs, they were not last time. The second pitch doesn't see that much traffic as most go right instead of left to go up the grand.
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peas
Jun 13, 2006, 11:12 PM
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Registered: Mar 30, 2002
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you could always aid Merci Me on hooks :shock:
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