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gogo


Jun 14, 2006, 11:39 PM
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Climbing Rock Shoe Review
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Is it just me, or is Climbing magazine's most recent rock shoe review pretty weak?
It seems that lately they never really compare the shoes to each other, and every shoe is described as great.


gt29905


Jun 14, 2006, 11:45 PM
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I agree, it's weak. No more ratings??? wtf. I wonder if it has anything todo with the new editor in chief that just signed on to the mag.


rainontin


Jun 14, 2006, 11:57 PM
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It doesn't say anything about the shoes that you can't read on the respective brands' websites. I don't know why they bothered to call it a 'review.'


grimpiperx


Jun 15, 2006, 12:48 AM
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Agreed, for those who haven't seen it here are some quotes of entire reviews.

In reply to:
" In the wild, the tastiest prey blends in for camoflage. Don't let the low key Evo fool you, though -- its moderate downturn has a bite that can chew up the meanest routes."

In reply to:
"This is the latest La Sportiva rock shoe adapted specifically for the female foot, resulting in a moderately curvy, versatile lace-up for vertical vixens."

These are entire reviews!! And more humerous yet is at the begining of the mag is this:

In reply to:
"The shoe review also marks the debut of Climbing's Equipment Editor, John Connor. His critical eye and detailed, rigorous in-the-field testing regimens will give you the finest and most in depth gear review this side of NASA."


That actually made me laugh out loud.


overlord


Jun 15, 2006, 4:14 PM
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:shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:

man, thats bad. those reviews used to be really good. i actually bought MR flash because theyve got an editors choice and i wasnt dissapointed. im really sad to see them go down the drain.

but we rc.commers need not worry. we have something better. the gear section.


bobruef


Jun 15, 2006, 4:21 PM
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Glad I wasn't the only one who noticed the lack of "review" in their review. It was just a glorified advertisement section for some of the newer shoes out.

I must have flipped through the rag 4 or 5 times to find the review that was refered to in the beginning. Definately not a review.

Weak sauce :?


gogo


Jun 15, 2006, 8:26 PM
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Cool, good to know that I'm not the only one jaded with the magazine reviews as of late (and the fact that someone else said "weak sauce" I find amazing).

While rockclimbing.com does have the gear reviews, it seems that nothing very new has been reviewed as of late.


devils_advocate


Jun 15, 2006, 9:51 PM
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i actually bought MR flash because theyve got an editors choice ...

No wonder they got a new editor

:lol: :lol: :lol:


grimpiperx


Jun 17, 2006, 3:41 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
i actually bought MR flash because theyve got an editors choice ...

No wonder they got a new editor

:lol: :lol: :lol:



Naaaaaah! The Flash kicks ass I sent my like first V0-VSlightlyHard in those things, they only might suck if your fat....cause their soft, but if your fat it's not your shoes fault....and you have bigger problems than your shoes.....like your gut....fatty, oh but not directed at you devils_advocate...


sustainedclimber


Jun 17, 2006, 5:27 AM
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Thank God someone here said something about this...the review flat out sucked. I just bought two new pairs of shoes last year so honestly I wasn't in the market, but the fact that there was no rating system, no comparison, no editor's choice?? Pretty pathetic compared to any review I've seen in the past. Kudos to us for realizing that they really dropped the ball.

-Josh


anykineclimb


Jun 17, 2006, 6:39 AM
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the show review in Rock and Ice was pretty good I felt.

The best part was how they gave a profile of the reviewers. I could see that the reviewer with a wide foot (like me) likes a certain shoes fit or compalins its too narrow.


gogo


Jun 17, 2006, 1:06 PM
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Yeah, Rock and Ice's review was definitely better than climbing, but I still got the vibe that the editors are kinda afraid to give any negative press to any shoe.
The lowest review was still pretty high, and any major company seemed they had at least 4 stars reserved.


anykineclimb


Jun 17, 2006, 1:33 PM
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In reply to:
any major company seemed they had at least 4 stars reserved.

That could just be because they've been making shoes longer than other companies and know what they're doing.


gogo


Jun 17, 2006, 2:29 PM
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I would agree with that logic, but EB has been in the game for longer than any of the more popular major companies and they had the "worst" reviews.


devils_advocate


Jun 19, 2006, 4:30 PM
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Naaaaaah! The Flash kicks ass I sent my like first V0-VSlightlyHard in those things, they only might suck if your fat....cause their soft, but if your fat it's not your shoes fault....and you have bigger problems than your shoes.....like your gut....fatty, oh but not directed at you devils_advocate...

Ummm... right. I've been trying to lose weight, but just can't seem to drop below my chunky 155lb.

Congrats on sending that V0. Ditch your Flash's for a decent pair of shoes and you may ascend to such arduous levels of V1 and the mighty V2. And this is coming from someone who used to like MR. I loved my Mugens, hated the Flash. But glad I bought them, because they pushed me to look elsewhere. I've since moved on to Evolv and Boreal and haven't looked back since.


grimpiperx


Jun 20, 2006, 4:09 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Naaaaaah! The Flash kicks ass I sent my like first V0-VSlightlyHard in those things, they only might suck if your fat....cause their soft, but if your fat it's not your shoes fault....and you have bigger problems than your shoes.....like your gut....fatty, oh but not directed at you devils_advocate...

Ummm... right. I've been trying to lose weight, but just can't seem to drop below my chunky 155lb.

Congrats on sending that V0. Ditch your Flash's for a decent pair of shoes and you may ascend to such arduous levels of V1 and the mighty V2. And this is coming from someone who used to like MR. I loved my Mugens, hated the Flash. But glad I bought them, because they pushed me to look elsewhere. I've since moved on to Evolv and Boreal and haven't looked back since.


I also have Five.Ten V10's, Evolv Talon's, Evolv Kaos, Five.Ten Rock Socks, and La Sportiva Testarossas

Any of those decent enough for you?.......................... punk


curt


Jun 20, 2006, 4:40 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:
Naaaaaah! The Flash kicks ass I sent my like first V0-VSlightlyHard in those things, they only might suck if your fat....cause their soft, but if your fat it's not your shoes fault....and you have bigger problems than your shoes.....like your gut....fatty, oh but not directed at you devils_advocate...

Ummm... right. I've been trying to lose weight, but just can't seem to drop below my chunky 155lb.

Congrats on sending that V0. Ditch your Flash's for a decent pair of shoes and you may ascend to such arduous levels of V1 and the mighty V2. And this is coming from someone who used to like MR. I loved my Mugens, hated the Flash. But glad I bought them, because they pushed me to look elsewhere. I've since moved on to Evolv and Boreal and haven't looked back since.


I also have Five.Ten V10's, Evolv Talon's, Evolv Kaos, Five.Ten Rock Socks, and La Sportiva Testarossas

Any of those decent enough for you?.......................... punk

But.....do you have LaSportiva Tradmasters?

Curt


dirtineye


Jun 20, 2006, 1:10 PM
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Curt, have you tried the tradmasters?

I'm going to give BACKer's Acopa trad shoe a go myself.

Sportiva pissed me off when they dropped the Mega, and decided that ankles should suffer.

Tell John that some of us like out ankles unblemished, and that he needs to make a retro hightop-- not for support, for ankle coverage.

Some of us still get our foot all the way in the crack, although the sport weenies still don't seem to unerstand that more contact is good, and when yo ucan get yoru foot on, there is no need to be on the tips of your toes, even if they think it's cool and good.


moonshine505


Jun 20, 2006, 2:32 PM
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The climbing mag new shoe "review" was the lamest waste of space in a magazine going quickly downhill. You could get more information about a shoe from a gear catalog, why even run a "review", are they that desperate for content?? This comes from a subscriber of 7 years, for what its worth.


devils_advocate


Jun 20, 2006, 3:54 PM
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I also have Five.Ten V10's, Evolv Talon's, Evolv Kaos, Five.Ten Rock Socks, and La Sportiva Testarossas

Any of those decent enough for you?.......................... punk

Heh... ok. [old] You little punk. [/omv]

You're the one that started with some rant about being overweight. That was kind of out of nowhere. Not to mention poorly thought out. If you've never seen someone, and they're a climber, the smart bet would be on them being rediculously skinny as opposed to fat. Just an observation.

I could care less what shoes you have. You obviously do not possess either the ability or patience to read a post. I stated my opinion, I think the MR Flash sucks. I further backed that up, trying to segregate myself away from the clique of Mad Rocks haters, stating that I had a pair of MR that I loved. I simply think the Flash a poor shoes with no feel. Unless you work for MR or are the editor at Climbing that I made fun of, this really shouldn't be so emotional for you. It's an opinion. Much like my opinion that you're an overzelous, talentless sh!t-talking, shoe-whoring, internet geek climbing wannabe.


chanceboarder


Jun 20, 2006, 4:14 PM
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I'm going to give BACKer's Acopa trad shoe a go myself.
Acopas are truly awesome shoes! You wont be disappointed. I've had the Spectres and the B3's for a while now and already want 2 of their other models to add to my ever growing collection of climbing shoes.

Like everyone else I was very disappointed in the magazines so called "review". Honestly they should have just called it a "shoe advertisement" because that's basically all it was. I think they're really doing a disservice to all their readers with that review.

Jason


grimpiperx


Jun 20, 2006, 10:50 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
I also have Five.Ten V10's, Evolv Talon's, Evolv Kaos, Five.Ten Rock Socks, and La Sportiva Testarossas

Any of those decent enough for you?.......................... punk

Heh... ok. [old] You little punk. [/omv]

You're the one that started with some rant about being overweight. That was kind of out of nowhere. Not to mention poorly thought out. If you've never seen someone, and they're a climber, the smart bet would be on them being rediculously skinny as opposed to fat. Just an observation.

I could care less what shoes you have. You obviously do not possess either the ability or patience to read a post. I stated my opinion, I think the MR Flash sucks. I further backed that up, trying to segregate myself away from the clique of Mad Rocks haters, stating that I had a pair of MR that I loved. I simply think the Flash a poor shoes with no feel. Unless you work for MR or are the editor at Climbing that I made fun of, this really shouldn't be so emotional for you. It's an opinion. Much like my opinion that you're an overzelous, talentless sh!t-talking, shoe-whoring, internet geek climbing wannabe.


I didn't call you fat I was saying that MR gets hated on for having low durablity because soft rubber wears faster under a fat person's foot, a tangent not directed at you. I am not emotional thats the whole point of shit talking online you don't actually get worked up, I am not worked up I just think that Flash is one of my Fav shoes even with the shoes listed. So shit talking yes, shoe whoring yes (but then your shoes wear slower), overzealous....meh, its the internet you can't really tell. Talentless-Internet-Geek wanna be? No, I cruise the site on restdays, and yesterday I was campus board training for a trip up to the Gunks, so Fuck you.
See no hard feelings, lol


devils_advocate


Jun 21, 2006, 3:30 PM
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I am not emotional thats the whole point of s--- talking online you don't actually get worked up....meh, its the internet... so f--- you. See no hard feelings, lol

That's the spirit, I even gave you a trophy.


drake


Jun 25, 2006, 8:46 PM
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It was pretty bad. I am looking for a new pair of shoes at the moment and the Climbing "review" was not help.
The R&I review was better. I wish they covered more shoes. I have a wide foot and need something with a wider toebox than the Mytho's.
Anyone have any recommendations?


pcfcclmbr


Jul 4, 2006, 10:51 PM
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The "review" was very lame. It read like a giant "advertorial". There was a letter to the editor n the most recent issue criticising it and the response from climbing was defensive and quite mean spirited. In my opinion the whole magazine has gone downhill. R&I and Urban Climber have surpassed them. I do hope they can get it back together, maybe if they listen to reader's comments instead of attacking them.

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