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tattooed_climber
Jun 22, 2006, 3:52 AM
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Registered: Dec 13, 2003
Posts: 4838
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well....i currently have 16 hooks racked between 3 biners
biner one (black hooks)
-Grappling hook
-Cliffhanger
-pointed cliffhanger (10mm taken off from the tip, and filed to a point)
-pointed logan
-wide logan
-talon
biner two (white hooks)
-#3 Ibis flat hook (the HUGE pika hook)
-grappling hook
-Cliffhanger
-2x pointed logans
-wide logan
-talon
biner three (cam hooks)
-2x med lepper cam hooks
-pika #3 cam hook
the only items i'm thinking about adding so far are more cam hooks; Leepers, enough so theres two of each size
another is maybe one of those pika hooks, the ibis vertical hooks, designed for hooking cracks and pin scars
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ricardol
Jun 22, 2006, 6:53 AM
Post #2 of 8
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Registered: Nov 11, 2002
Posts: 1050
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sounds like a fine rack ..
my rack for A3 is
4 cam hooks (2 of each medium size)
2 talons
2 cliffhangers (1 pointed)
2 grappling (1 pointed)
3 fish hooks (the large mofos -- 3 different sizes)
thats it .. racked on 3 biners .. -- on a long wall i'll usually drop 1 or 2 hooks .. hence why you bring 2 of each, and rack them on separate biners..
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lambone
Jun 24, 2006, 9:42 PM
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Registered: May 1, 2003
Posts: 1399
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I have carried my Talon on 13 Yos walls and never used it once... :?
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ptpp
Nov 2, 2007, 4:44 AM
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Registered: Nov 1, 2007
Posts: 38
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Gee, I wouldn't put all your cam hooks [or all of anything!] on a single biner in case you drop it.
Nice job splitting the other hooks and separating them. Choose lockers to rack, or real stiff-gate standard crabs. I have these ancient Bonati crabs I use for my hooks with super-stiff gates.
You need a couple pointed Grappling hooks, I think. Just file the two you have to a point. I don't even bother with flat Cliffhangers or flat Grapplings any more.
For most of your hook placements, you will be good with two biners, each of which has a pointed Grappling and pointed Cliffhanger on it. I bet that'll get you through 70-80% of your hook placements.
Don't sell the Talon short, Matt - it is superb for bathook holes, which are stupid anyway, but that's another topic.
And if you spend some time on the less-steep SW Face of El Cap [done much over there?] you will find the Talons useful on the super-hard rock at a less steep angle. Talons were indispensable on Jolly Roger, for instance.
I love Fish hooks and Captain hooks, Russ' two big hooks. Not sure if you can still get 'em. I am not fond of Leepers or Logans, I don't take 'em any more.
For hard aid routes:
2-3 pointed Cliffhanger
2-3 pointed Grappling
2-3 Talon
2 Fish
2 Captain
For really hard routes:
extras for duct taping down for pro!
I am not fond of cam hooks either. I should learn, but I tend to climb harder routes, and would prefer to place a pin. Maybe if I were climbing more less scary pitches, I would use them more. I find it hard to look a gift pin placement in the mouth.
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yetanotherdave
Nov 20, 2007, 3:17 PM
Post #5 of 8
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Registered: Mar 19, 2005
Posts: 243
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when you sharpen cliffhangers, how much (if any) do you shorten them? My sharpened ones are super-flexy, which isn't exactly confidence-inspiring. Thinking of shortening one or more as per Synott's tech tip:
http://www.climbing.com/...t/techtips/ttaid234/
any thoughts/suggestions/Better Ways?
thanks - dave
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the_climber
Nov 20, 2007, 6:38 PM
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Registered: Oct 9, 2003
Posts: 6142
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Dave (how many Daves are there now hehehe), Pete was rebanned. Check out his profile and decode the email. He'd be more than happy to give you his advice.
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moof
Nov 20, 2007, 7:02 PM
Post #7 of 8
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Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 400
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yetanotherdave wrote: when you sharpen cliffhangers, how much (if any) do you shorten them? My sharpened ones are super-flexy, which isn't exactly confidence-inspiring. Thinking of shortening one or more as per Synott's tech tip: http://www.climbing.com/...t/techtips/ttaid234/ any thoughts/suggestions/Better Ways? thanks - dave
I didn't shorten mine when I sharpened. I just shaved the chisel point down to about 1/8" wide. The common case is an "enhanced" hook placement. Some poor stressed sod has a slopping ledge that won't hook. A few taps with a 1/4" drill and voila, hook placement. So you don't need a needle point, just something that will get down into that 1/4" divit.
Russ at Fish Products is now selling ring angle hooks. So far he only has been listing them on ebay. I LOVE mine, better than his older (no longer made) Fish hook IMO. He claims the new ones are about half the strength of the old ones, but the new one is just sweeter!
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russwalling
Nov 21, 2007, 6:02 PM
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Registered: Jun 12, 2002
Posts: 239
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Moof is correct.... we have been ebay selling the hooks, and below is a link to an old auction for reference. I'll have them on our regular site soon, but if you need one like right now, just email me.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300171349373&ssPageName=ADME:L:EOISSA:US:1123
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