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jer99
Jun 25, 2006, 2:28 AM
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A few days ago mom (who is pushing 60) decided that she wanted to go climbing so I took her toproping at a local cliff, and she crushed a few 5.3's. Well now she wants to go again, and I was thinking I could take her to the gunks and do a really easy 2 pitch climb or something like that. Ive never been the the gunks however, so if anyone has some suggestions for super easy (and safe to follow) routes in the 5.2-5.4 range I'd appreciate them.
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lucander
Jun 25, 2006, 2:31 AM
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Three Pines (5.3)
Minty (5.3)
Beginner's Delight (5.3)
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clausti
Jun 25, 2006, 2:57 AM
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Gelsa 5.4
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saxfiend
Jun 25, 2006, 3:27 AM
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Hmmm, I don't know, this all sounds a little weird. You want to travel all the way from Colorado to the Gunks just to get your Mom up on some easy multi-pitch . . . and this would be just your Mom's second climb outdoors . . . and you've never been to the Gunks.
I see red flags waving in the distance on Rt. 299 . . . :roll:
JL
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jer99
Jun 25, 2006, 3:42 AM
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thanks for the replies.
saxfiend - not sure exactly what you're implying, but Ive been going to school in colorado and am currently at home in nj, hence being in close proximity to both the gunks and my dear old mother. in case you were actually interested...
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saxfiend
Jun 25, 2006, 3:55 AM
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In reply to: thanks for the replies. saxfiend - not sure exactly what you're implying, but Ive been going to school in colorado and am currently at home in nj, hence being in close proximity to both the gunks and my dear old mother. in case you were actually interested...
I think your Mom would have fun on Three Pines for sure.
JL
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rgold
Jun 25, 2006, 4:12 AM
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Lucander's recommendations, Three Pines, Minty, and Beginner's Delight are the 3-star 5.3's in the Trapps and you certainly can't go wrong with them in terms of quality. But there are some other issues that might be worth thinking about.
1. The business end of Minty is the first 15 feet, and in my opinion it is way underrated at 5.3. You can (and you must if you like your mom) belay right above it to give advice and keep down rope stretch. But it is a very stiff start. I wouldn't recommend it for the very first thing.
2. Beginner's Delight is, in my opinion, the best 5.3 in the Gunks. But the second pitch is complicated by traversing and is a lot harder if you don't traverse in the right place. You'll have to be very careful about protecting the traverse for your Mom. The third pitch has a trying corner capped by an overhang, and unless you set up a semi-hanging belay on a small ledge immediately after the overhang, mom will be out of sight while struggling with the hardest moves. So again I wouldn't recommend this climb for the very first.
3. Gelsa, recommended by Clausti, is even worse: mom would be on steep, sometimes wet, and a bit unstable rock for a long time while being out of sight. Definitely not the first thing to do in my opinion.
That leaves Three Pines as by far the best option in my opinion. The belay ledges are commodious, you can keep your mom in sight at all times, and you get up in the air.
Here's something else to think about. A Gunks 5.3 will be steep and will have at least a section with some rather tricky climbing. I have no idea what the grading is like at the cliff your mom top-roped, but it is possible that the Gunks 5.3's are going to feel harder and more exposed. I'd give serious consideration to Northern Pillar and Casa Emilio. The latter climb is at the far end of the Trapps and so has not enjoyed the popularity of the other routes mentioned. The first pitch is very easy and it is followed by a very nice steep pitch on lovely rock.
You will have to place gear on these climbs and mom is going to have to clean it.
Finally: how are you going to get down?
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charley
Jun 25, 2006, 12:29 PM
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Some of you locals can help. There are nice 5.2's some even near the road. Make sure mom can clean and rap before you go up. There is also taking three climbers with mom in the middle just clipping through. If I remember right, Debby is 5.3 and right by the road.
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gunksgoer
Jun 25, 2006, 3:40 PM
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Try Easy Overhang. Its a 2 pitch 5.2 with nice big ledge on top of the first pitch complete with a bolted belay. From there its an exposed 5.2 pitch to the top. Its also a real short approach which is good, but it will be crowded on weekends.
Most of the good easy routes are going to be crowded on weekends. Go during the week and youll have alot more fun.
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tradrenn
Jun 25, 2006, 3:41 PM
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Betty 5.3
I think you may want to do this one it wonder a bit on second pitch but there is lots of big holds on it too, it can be done in 1, 2, 3 or 4 pitches to make your day easier.
When you get to New Paltz go to Rock & Snow and get yourself a guidebook "The Grey Dick" ( staff at the store will know which book that is ) See pages 391 to 459 and look for "Bolted Rappel Route" sign on those pictures. One 50m rope will get you guys back to the ground in 2 or 3 rapps.
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cracklover
Jun 26, 2006, 8:05 PM
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Too bad P1 of Disneyland invalidates it for your purposeses. The second pitch would probably be perfect.
Hmm, what about Loose Goose in the Nears? It's been years since I last did this, but I remember it as having excellent climbing, and I don't recall any big traverses. Anyone who's done it more recently care to chime in?
GO
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climbxclimb
Jun 26, 2006, 8:42 PM
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Casa Emilio (5.2 First pitch).
Betty! very nice and easy (5.3).
Andrew (first pitch 5.3, second pitch 5.4, third pitch exposed 5.3) Very nice
Beginners Delight (5.3) a must!
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taino
Jun 26, 2006, 8:50 PM
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In reply to: Too bad P1 of Disneyland invalidates it for your purposeses. The second pitch would probably be perfect. Hmm, what about Loose Goose in the Nears? It's been years since I last did this, but I remember it as having excellent climbing, and I don't recall any big traverses. Anyone who's done it more recently care to chime in? GO
Loose Goose is the hardest 5.5 I have ever climbed, and in fact will be upgraded to 5.6 PG (at least, that's what DW says for his new Nears guidebook).
Might not be the best bet.
T
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climbingbetty22
Jun 26, 2006, 9:10 PM
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I'll second (third?) the endorsement of Betty. FWIW its always busy with guides taking their first time multipitch clients up it. Nice climbing and its less exposed than Beginner's, so that may be a plus for Mom's first time out.
Hey kudos to you Ma for trying out climbing and being a kid heart, no matter what her age!!!!!! :D
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smallclimber
Jun 26, 2006, 9:45 PM
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I'd go for 3 Pines - you can rap from the GT lendge if you change your mind about going to the top and unlike Minty and Beginners Delight there are no hard moves. You are also within walking distance of the Uberfall if you decide rapping is not a good plan when you get to the top. Make sure she knows how to rap if you do that.
Don't do Loose Goose, the most sandbagged 5.5 there is! No way is that a 2nd time climb for a 60 yr old.
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smallclimber
Jun 26, 2006, 9:54 PM
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I'd go for 3 Pines - you can rap from the GT ledge if you change your mind about going to the top and unlike Minty and Beginners Delight there are no hard moves. You are also within walking distance of the Uberfall if you decide rapping is not a good plan when you get to the top. Make sure she knows how to rap if you do that.
Don't do Loose Goose, the most sandbagged 5.5 there is! No way is that a 2nd time climb for a 60 yr old.
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happiegrrrl
Jun 26, 2006, 10:28 PM
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I only did P1 on Loose Goose, and I can say that the crux bit baffled me for a bit, and required committment - even following! And I adore the route-finding/sequence/movement analysis aspect of climbing. It is a tough, strenuous bit of climbing.
Rgold knows the Gunks, and has the experience to qualify the points he made. Some of the others who've posted have not even climbed here! There's more to think about than just a rating.
I am wondering what those familiar would think about this suggestion: a trip out to Peterkill. Single pitch, and top-ropeable. Though cleaning gear is definitely "fun" (if you're on the career path to becoming a climbing junkie), I don't think it epitomizes "the climbing experience" for many beginners. To most, I think, it's all about getting hands and feet on those puzzling moves and making upward progress. On TR, you are right there at the start(if you slingshot) to encourage, and can see nearly the whole route on most lines at PK. You can lower her if she's tired or befuddled, or give her a power assist if needed, too.
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cracklover
Jun 27, 2006, 3:09 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Too bad P1 of Disneyland invalidates it for your purposeses. The second pitch would probably be perfect. Hmm, what about Loose Goose in the Nears? It's been years since I last did this, but I remember it as having excellent climbing, and I don't recall any big traverses. Anyone who's done it more recently care to chime in? GO Loose Goose is the hardest 5.5 I have ever climbed, and in fact will be upgraded to 5.6 PG (at least, that's what DW says for his new Nears guidebook). Might not be the best bet. T
Oops! Okay, never mind! I just remember loving it as a beginner leader.
Minty has been discussed already - was my first lead at the Gunks, and one of my first leads ever. Felt very straightforward, but fun, IIRC.
And how about Bunny? I know there'll be lines on it, and some of the moves in the first pitch are a little tricky, but it's a fun one, and you can keep an eye on her the whole time.
Oh, and happie - I think the OP's main focus was to do a nice easy multipitch climb with her.
GO
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