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chrtur
Jun 26, 2006, 1:04 PM
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Ciao,
Been busy climbing like others. Went two days in the area of La Grave and Briancon and had some weather problems, but also some climbing. Then five days in Switzerland and most days in the area of the plateau Trient. The main climb could not be done due to hot weather and instead three long rock routes finished. Then back to Torino and taking out a friend on his first long multipitch climb.
Next weekend we go to the hut Dalmazzi and will do some climbing, first time for me there. I will also check some other climbs in that area I would like to do :D
Heiko, Orco? Which routes are you going to do? Guidebook?
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booger
Jun 27, 2006, 7:23 AM
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Hey all! Sorry for being absent for so long! I've been in charge of my department all summer and now I'm trying to organize everybody and everything so that I can actually get out of here and have a vacation of my own!
Paolo and I are looking forward to July... 5-9 in Val del Orco, then Val Masino (Cassin, if it ever stops snowing there!) for a week, then the Dolomites for a week. I can't wait to get back on rock. Other than our Pfalz weekend and one weekend in Strasbourg this month... I haven't climbed AT ALL! :? I think Val del Orco is going to be a lesson in PAIN!! :shock: ... hopefully heiko and sarah will be bringing some 'spirits' to soothe my aching muscles :D
Sounds like everybody is having a great summer so far! UA - why did your trip fall through? :(
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uasunflower
Jun 27, 2006, 7:29 AM
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long story, many reasons - i.e. my partner, new boss at work, my mom, my preparation level etc. etc.
btw i might be in the dolomites the second week of july :wink:
oh, and has anyone climbed in Bretagne - i might be there next w-end, near Nantes, was looking at Le Croisic or Pen-Hir. Is it worth going there? And...as always, i also would need a partner, know of anyone living and climbing out there... :roll: ?
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uasunflower
Jun 27, 2006, 7:41 AM
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gd, btw i still have your val di mello guidebook, let me know when/if you need it!
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tisar
Jun 27, 2006, 8:22 AM
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All those plans... WOW! I wish I could get outa here for a couple of days... seems to be impossible for now :roll:
On the other hand: Hope to meet Ashley these days, got my slackline (hell, I'm sore all over my legs, bum whatever from slacklining... and I don't even manage to walk it one way through...), the park and the boulder, sunshine, beer gardens... I think life could be worse :D
Still if someone has an idea what to do, say end July/beginning of August, I'd love to get out of the city for a weekend!
Maybe we could pick up the Frankenjure plans again?
- Daniel
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uasunflower
Jun 27, 2006, 9:00 AM
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frankenjura is nice, but i think elbe sandstone is even better! anyway, i'd be interested - we could maybe organize a van from belgium :wink:
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uasunflower
Jun 27, 2006, 9:19 AM
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taz, is it cassin on the badile's north face you want to do? how long/hard is it? what guidebook do you have for it?
You're in the dolomites july 17-23, right?
and...where/what is Orco valley?..
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booger
Jun 27, 2006, 11:13 AM
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In reply to: taz, is it cassin on the badile's north face you want to do? how long/hard is it? what guidebook do you have for it? You're in the dolomites july 17-23, right? and...where/what is Orco valley?..
Yep, that's the right Cassin. 30 pitches, max 6a+ or 6b I believe. 2 hour approach from the refugio. But weather reports have been a bit icky. Still snowing, etc. Anyway, if it looks bad we'll do the ridge route. Its in Val Masino, so I'm pretty sure it appears in the yellow Val di Mello guidebook but we've got a bunch of different topos and beta.
We're not 100 percent on any our dates for anything except VDO yet... going to chill out on this vacation and follow the good climbing/good weather. Also including a few days stop on Paolo's island in Venice (dun-da-dun-dun). But certainly Paolo is dying to see 'his' Dolomites :D You might hit up Steve-o if you're looking for a partner around there - he has been talking about the Dolomites for some time. :wink:
Valle Orco is Euro-crack-climbing heaven. Also in the Italian Alps, granite, not far from Val di Mello. Has its own guidebook (only available in Italian). Home of "the most expensive crack in Europe" - aka "Desperation Crack" (is that right Heiko?) which is an endless offwith that only eats n°4-6 or big bros. I think Heiko can elaborate further (he sent me some very alarming :shock: photos of it a few months ago)
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uasunflower
Jun 27, 2006, 11:27 AM
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sounds excitnig, good luck with it - and come back with lots of pics! I might sms you if i'm in the area...
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tisar
Jun 27, 2006, 12:03 PM
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In reply to: at first sight it seems to be a nice crack, but then you discover the climber and his size relative to the crack. :shock: I think you don't need tape gloves but tape pants to do it, at least for the right leg :lol:
I found this picture in a top secret beta guide:
http://www.party411.com/...om-cutouts-mummy.jpg
- Daniel
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heiko
Jun 27, 2006, 12:13 PM
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:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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steve-o
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Jun 27, 2006, 10:11 PM
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Heiko, thanks for the pic of that sweet looking offwidth. I will bring the body armor! I'd be so stoked to use my big toys over here. OW's are what happens when you overdose on crack, you start to feel sick - vomiting may follow! But it's a good kinda sick, cause you worked really hard for that 6 inches of progress.
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overlord
Jun 28, 2006, 7:26 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: at first sight it seems to be a nice crack, but then you discover the climber and his size relative to the crack. :shock: I think you don't need tape gloves but tape pants to do it, at least for the right leg :lol: I found this picture in a top secret beta guide: http://www.party411.com/...om-cutouts-mummy.jpg - Daniel
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
that offwidth looks like i real PITA.
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tisar
Jun 29, 2006, 7:46 AM
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Hi folks!
Greetz from Ashley, seen her yesterday in the park. We got some bouldering done and walked the line a bit. Unfortunatly she was so busy in Ramstein, she missed all the good stuff in Berlin :lol:
Everything is fine so far - though I'm far too busy to rope up. Motivation could be higher anyway since concrete.... now, it's just not the real thing. At least the bouldering and the slackline keep me busy and in shape, hopefully that is
:D
Have a nice one!
- Daniel
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chrtur
Jun 29, 2006, 9:09 AM
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Nice day for my motivation :D
I just got the two red books of Dolomiten - Vertikal - UA now we can discuss from the same viewpoint.
Then an Italian friend sent me several PDF files of full topobooks in the alps... :lol:
Much work done today..... :wink:
- Christian
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uasunflower
Jun 29, 2006, 12:16 PM
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good job chrtur, so how about those alps? btw i got one of my objectives down (frendo 8^) ) lately, what about your route on Jorasses?
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chrtur
Jun 29, 2006, 12:27 PM
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In reply to: good job chrtur, so how about those alps? btw i got one of my objectives down (frendo 8^) ) lately, what about your route on Jorasses?
Frendo, good work! You should give me some beta if possible? Jorasses is going down since I will not go with my supposed partner since he has not trained enough for me to be in shape. Lots of talking...... :lol:
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uasunflower
Jun 29, 2006, 12:39 PM
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beta: looooong! On the approach go to the right, not to the top of glacier and traverse, as there are a couple of crevases there (yup, first-hand experience :roll: ). The first part is a big pile of junk rock & snow with a couple of harder moves, mostly simul-climbing. Don't underestimate the last part - a looong but very beautiful arrete and then at least 4 full ropes of ice if you do the left-hand finish, need at least 3 ice screws - it's 60-70degrees mainly, but it's the end of the day and hard to get into ice mood after all that scrambling. From start in Cham' to end in Cosmiques it took us 14 hours...
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uasunflower
Jun 29, 2006, 12:42 PM
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oh, and dolomiten vertikal rule!!! i mostly enjoy their german route description where i hardly understand a word, it makes it all so much more exciting!
and we still have an unfinished route with you there, remember? :wink:
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Re: Calling all Euro-vision-freaks
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