|
|
|
|
rome2282
Jul 21, 2006, 3:46 PM
Post #1 of 13
(3981 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 29, 2006
Posts: 23
|
As I'm very new to indoor climbing, I'm trying to focus my attention on improving my weakest areas. My problem is in pin-pointing what the exact weakness is (or correcting it). Here is an example of my current problem:
After breezing through a series of 5.8’s, I tried my hand on the few 5.9’s that were up. All of them seemed to give me the same problem. Naturally, sections of each route had vary few medium sized holds and I couldn’t grasp or move past a set of holds that “to me” seemed like I could only use for foot holds.
Thinking this was my limit for now, I took a “for the hell of it” chance on a route that my gym ranks as 5.10b. This route was a blast! It stuck with large jug like holds but used a lot of different body positions and crossovers to maneuver over a roof and up some inside corners. It helped me really see that a grade can be based on more then just the holds. The body positioning seemed to come much more naturally to me.
My questions are:
Is it my pinch strength that is limiting me or a need for improvement on how I use the smaller holds?
Generally speaking, what other factors should be changing through this range of grades? (Holds are smaller, More body positioning is required, etc.)
How other were people able to improve the way the used smaller holds or is “just keep climbing” still the best answer?
Any specific advice would be really appreciated! Thanks in advance…..
|
|
|
|
|
epoch
Moderator
Jul 21, 2006, 4:06 PM
Post #2 of 13
(3981 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 28, 2005
Posts: 32163
|
I think the problem lies in the fact that you are worried about what grade you climb in a GYM... Things are different on the real thing...
Try hand strengthening exercises. If you are really cheap, like me, squease tennis balls. Use varing numbers, they are pressurized differently.
|
|
|
|
|
trenchdigger
Jul 21, 2006, 4:50 PM
Post #3 of 13
(3981 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 9, 2003
Posts: 1447
|
I'm going to bet that you're pretty strong, but your technique sucks balls. Learn to use your feet more and position your body so less weight is on your hands. Watch the best climbers in the gym and imitate their movement. Technique is everything...
|
|
|
|
|
lena_chita
Moderator
Jul 21, 2006, 4:52 PM
Post #4 of 13
(3981 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
|
Hard to give a specific advice for something like this. You could ask other people in the gym for advice on how to work specific routes... and learn technique in general.
As far as grades go... again, there could be so many factors. The routes get harder in different ways... Smaller hands and foot holds is only one of them. Holds farther apart make it more difficult... An overhanging/roof route will be usually considered harder than a vertical route with the same- size holds. A route that requires you to hand or foot smear, etc. will be probably harder than a route that has big holds in the right places. Etc. etc.
But everyone has different strengths... If you find it easy to pull yourself up the roof, but can't balance on small holds, you'll probably breeze through that overhanging route but will be stymied on something that requires you to use your footwork and balance and not just pull yourself up using arms.
It will come eventually. Have fun!
|
|
|
|
|
alx
Jul 21, 2006, 4:56 PM
Post #5 of 13
(3981 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 22, 2003
Posts: 159
|
If you want to work on your weaknesses keep climbing the route that stopped you and others like it. Climb them when you're fresh, not tired. Climb the stuff that comes more naturally later when youre not 100% any more.
Everybody has strengths and weaknesses. Sometimes we don't want to work on our weaknesses because it's "hard" and no fun to feel like you suck. Keep at it and you'll pick up new skills whether it's the type of holds, body position, balance, footwork, etc.
|
|
|
|
|
norsk
Jul 21, 2006, 4:58 PM
Post #6 of 13
(3981 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 25, 2005
Posts: 33
|
I am sorry, I do not mean to hijack the thread, but I have to respond to the previous poster's claim that differently numbered tennis balls are pressurized differently: this is absolutely not true. The numbers on tennis balls are simply there so balls from different courts don't get mixed up (i.e. you don't start playing with another's balls [yes, laugh here] if they should roll into your court). I played competitively in college, and was a USTPA-certified instructor for a number of years, so I am not just making this up.
Regardless, squeezing tennis balls is an effective method to build hand strength. And, for the OP, just remember not to overtrain; it is quite easy to do with the hand and forearm muscles.
|
|
|
|
|
rome2282
Jul 21, 2006, 5:02 PM
Post #7 of 13
(3981 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 29, 2006
Posts: 23
|
Thank you guys for the great advice! (especially the tennis ball trick) While I’ve watched a bit of the more experienced people climb, I'll definitely make more of a conscious effort to pay attention to the techniques on the holds I’m referring to.
(I mentioned the grades as an attempt to narrow down what range of hold sizes I was referring to.)
|
|
|
|
|
aikibujin
Jul 21, 2006, 5:49 PM
Post #8 of 13
(3981 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 28, 2003
Posts: 408
|
In reply to: Hard to give a specific advice for something like this. You could ask other people in the gym for advice on how to work specific routes... and learn technique in general.
Actually this is the best advice so far. If it's hard for you to pin-point your own weakness, it's even harder for a bunch of cyber-climbers to pin-point it for you. Without watching you climb, it's very hard to tell you what you're doing wrong. Of course that won't stop us from trying to guess. Your best bet is to find someone in the gym with good technique to watch you climb and offer you some advice. People who warm up on the route you're flailing on would be a good start.
|
|
|
|
|
epoch
Moderator
Jul 21, 2006, 6:29 PM
Post #9 of 13
(3981 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 28, 2005
Posts: 32163
|
In reply to: I am sorry, I do not mean to hijack the thread, but I have to respond to the previous poster's claim that differently numbered tennis balls are pressurized differently: this is absolutely not true. The numbers on tennis balls are simply there so balls from different courts don't get mixed up (i.e. you don't start playing with another's balls [yes, laugh here] if they should roll into your court). I played competitively in college, and was a USTPA-certified instructor for a number of years, so I am not just making this up. Regardless, squeezing tennis balls is an effective method to build hand strength. And, for the OP, just remember not to overtrain; it is quite easy to do with the hand and forearm muscles.
I thought that this statement was total BS... But one does learn something every day. Google it!! Therefore I retract my statement about different pressures. But reccomend getting a pressurized ball and one that is not. :oops:
Saweeet. Now get outside, would you!
|
|
|
|
|
rome2282
Jul 21, 2006, 6:38 PM
Post #10 of 13
(3981 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 29, 2006
Posts: 23
|
I can't wait to try my hand outdoors. The problem with living in Michigan is that mostly means road trips. Great state for lakes and well...lakes...but a bad state if you like being more then 5 feet above "water level"....
I'm hoping by the time I go to visit my sister in Vegas; I'll be at a level to really appreciate a trip out to Red Rocks...
Again, thanks for all the great advice... now if I only could find a tennis ball here at work...is it 5:00 yet?
|
|
|
|
|
chrissy2k6
Jul 22, 2006, 2:20 AM
Post #11 of 13
(3981 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 16, 2006
Posts: 7
|
If it makes you feel any better, I have the complete opposite problem. Again, only using the grades for a means of comparison, at the gym I climb at I can fly up the 10a's and b's that go straght up a wall, but have tiny little holds and nubs to grab on to. But if you put me on a 5.9 with overhangs and big, friendly holds, I struggle and cry like a little kid who dropped his ice cream cone.
It's all relative. It's a lot easier to want to climb the ones you are good at. But I agree that you should keep climbing the ones that piss you off the most until you learn how to attack them successfully.
|
|
|
|
|
moditup
Jul 22, 2006, 2:33 AM
Post #12 of 13
(3981 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 7, 2006
Posts: 221
|
I took a climbing class that was far below my level last quarter in school, and it was pretty much lame except for a few things my teacher said. She told us that's its not a matter of getting really strong (although this obviously helps) but getting comfortable with strange positions. Our bodies aren't used to the contortions we do to it while climbing. I think squeezing tennis balls would help more in muscular endurance of the hands and forearms than just strength. Like for me, I can do a set or two of crimp pull ups, but after that I'm burnt out and won't even climb for a while.
The more you expose yourself to teeny holds the more you'll get used to them. Also, you might just be doing a move wrong. I was struggling with a 5.10c last night (my first!) and my belayer told me to stick my left foot out and smear and I did the move perfectly, quickly, and elegantly. I just overlooked that position, it was not a matter of strength at all, just where to move your weight.
|
|
|
|
|
sick_climba
Jul 22, 2006, 2:39 AM
Post #13 of 13
(3981 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 1, 2005
Posts: 508
|
In reply to: I think the problem lies in the fact that you are worried about what grade you climb in a GYM... Things are different on the real thing... Try hand strengthening exercises. If you are really cheap, like me, squease tennis balls. Use varing numbers, they are pressurized differently. |
|
|
|
|
|
